In The Fold Peplum Top – Gingham Satisfaction

I love gingham fabric and if I could get my hands on all colors that is a pattern I would be wearing ALL THE TIME. I got the fabric at a local store near me a while ago and I was so in love with it that I bought as much as I could. I made this dress form it and was left with some remnants that kind of were big enough for something but I was never sure what. And then the In The Folds Peplum top came to play in one of the Peppermint Magazine issues.

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I like how this top is at the same time simple and yet has some interesting details like straps as a separate pattern piece and the peplum. The fabric is some kind of cotton so it was on the stiffer side. This meant that the peplum was way more statement like than I had imagined it. To workaround that I added side ties so I can tie them into a bow and I love how that looks. There are two ties on each side and they are just sewed down to the bodice left and right from the side seam.

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The pattern has a round neckline in the front and v in the back. I like this and it is ideal something something (different drummer kind of thing) for summer. I am interested in seeing how I can pair it with my existing wardrobe but also how I can wear it in non-summer weather. So I had a rummage through my wardrobe and saw this rust Paola turtleneck I made some time ago and it was instant heart eyes. I will have to search for more combinations like this.

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The pattern instructions are great as always with In The Folds and the pattern is easy to construct. I would recommend any of their patterns made for the Peppermint magazine as a great addition to your wardrobe but also for beginner sewists looking for something simple yet very wearable and beautiful. I would like to make one in a floatier fabric next time.

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Thank you for reading!

Ana

 

 

 

All the faces Kalle Shirt – Pattern by Closetcase Patterns

When I first saw this fabric I was in love and had to have it. I was very lucky to win one sewing challenge on Instagram at the same time meaning I got a voucher from Material Girl Laura. So you know what this girl did. She went online, redeemed the voucher, added a bit extra to get decent yardage and waited for the delivery. I loved the fabric so much I never felt like I had the right project for it. I knew I wanted a shirt but just could not decide on a pattern.

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With time I decided to make it into a Kalle shirt by ClosetCase Patterns. Having done one recently (blogged here) and seeing many versions of it on Instagram I was confident this would be a good match. In fact, I dare to say this is one of the most popular fabric and pattern combos out there. When I posted about it on Instagram stories I got several replies from people saying they made a Kalle out of it. And even if you scroll down the hashtag you will see several of them made in this fabric. It was a sign!

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I decided on a standard button placket and a popover collar. I prefer a popover collar over mandarin collar, just feels better suiting for a shirt.
As for the buttons, I knew I wanted white ones but had several options in my stash. I did not have enough of the ones I decided to use so I went with a seethrough one on the collar stand (on the right in the photo below).

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Deciding on button options

Like last time, construction and instructions were clear and straightforward. I decided to add sleeves to this one and did so with a bit of hacking and pattern frankensteining. I did not use sleeve cuff pieces that come with the pattern and attached the sleeve directly to the bodice. I used the Zadie jumpsuit long sleeve pattern piece. I already used this sleeve for two different pattern hacks but I am yet to use it for Zadie (one day). I first measured the sleeve opening on Kalle bodice and the Zadie sleeve top opening to see if they would fit. And measurements were almost perfect – the Zadie sleeve opening was bigger by about 1 cm so I just chopped that extra bit off while cutting.

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I cut the sleeves as per pattern on top and went wider towards the bottom (kind of a bell shape) to get more volume. I did not have enough fabric left at that point to make them wider but they turned out good like this as well. I lengthened them also by about 5 cm and finished them at the hem with elastic – easy and quick.

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I used the cropped version to cut it out but lengthened it so I could tuck it in high waisted pants. I wish I had cut it longer because it does ride up on the sides occasionally, but I will survive. I skipped the hem facing and finished it off with a satin bias binding that just looks a bit more luxurious.

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I think this might be my new favorite shirt!
For anyone interested in the white pants and cardigan in the photos, you can click here and here to read more about them.

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Thank you for reading!

Ana

The Anna Mac Coat – pattern by Sew Over It

When Sew Over It released their second e-book I was playing all hard to get and was telling myself that I do not need it. How long do you think I was able to stick with it? I think it was for about a week. Bravo Ana!

But seriously, when you have a pattern like this mac in it AND it is called Anna (for those who do not know me my name is Ana!), what else do I need to say? Now I just need to work on making more pattens form the book because there are some lovely ones in there.

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I love a good collar and this mac really does have it. It is the right amount of statement yet not too much. Well, for me at least. The one thing I am not too excited about is a sideseam pocket so I decided to skip them and put on patch pockets. And I love how they look and the vibe they give. I feel either safari chick or 70s detective cool. I think I prefer the second one more. The second change I did is shorten it to the hip level. Originally it was supposed to be a mid-calf length but boy did that look bad. So chop, chop to save what I could.

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I had to make the sway back adjustment. I make this adjustment on most top patterns so I should have guessed I would need it with this one as well. But I was in a hurry to have this jacket done and skipped that step. So, of course, I had a lot of gaping in the lower back. Since the whole thing was already cut and sewed I made the adjustment directly on the garment. I simply pinned the excess fabric where the gaping was and took in about 4 cm in the middle of the back going to 0 cm at side seams. Good, this is that I have the belt which covers it up because the seam is visible.

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On-site sway back adjustment

Remember how I said I was in a hurry to have this jacket finished? Well, by the time I got to the finishing touches it all just sat there a few weeks. I am sure it had to do with the weather turning colder so I knew I would not be wearing it out any time soon. But I can’t wait for Spring! Anyhow, I finished the hems at one point and now it is ready for a walk in the park. Or city. Or safari excursion in a 70’s detective show!

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The fabric is a home decor fabric. It is a bit on the lighter side but it is so satisfying how crisp it is after ironing. I liked the oatmeal colour and knew right there it would be a perfect mac.

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Thank you for reading,

Ana

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White Persephone Pants – yes or no?

White pants. Dream or doom? I love white pants on others and have always dreamt of having a pair. One step closer to my dream style and wardrobe. But how long will they remain white? Is this just a pipe dream?

Who knows, but I finished them and I am happy with how they look and fit. I made my pants! These are not the first pants I made (I already blogged about first Persephone’s here) but when you get used to making something and it starts being the norm you forget to celebrate it and stepping back to think – I made these freaking pants! Not many people can say that and I always love how well I know my clothes – from materials, construction, the thread I used, steps I did to get to the finish line and how each and every garment has an origin story I was part of from start to finish. Does that not make it even more special? I think it does and I wanted to tell that to myself today.

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So, white pants. A good idea? No idea, but let’s try it. I will probably not ever feel 100% secure sitting in them just for the phobia I will sit on something and get them dirty, even if I am in a totally safe indoor environment. But I am pushing myself to do what I want and live my life how I want and if one small step of wearing white pants will get me there than that one small step in white pants will be a big step in getting my butt where I want it to be 😀

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Sewing has opened a new world to me, not only in craft and knowledge I did not have before but in freeing my mind and allowing me to wear colour first and now white. I never wore either in my teenage years. It was too visible and too out there for me. But I learned that wearing the garments I create makes me feel more confident. And I like that. So white pants it is. I just hope I won’t be too conscious of being in white pants, although I understand some settling in will have to happen in the beginning.

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Pattern and Construction

Now for the technical part of it all. The pattern is the Persephone Pants by Anna Allen Clothing. I already used this pattern before and this is my 5th pair, so I was confident in constructing them. The only difference this time was that I used stretch denim. This pattern is drafted for non-stretch fabrics, so using stretch meant I had to think about what size to make it in. I made my earlier pants in size 2 in the waist and grading to 4 in the hips, although this changed a bit with each pair I made. Here I knew I would have some gapping or just bad fit if I went with the same size so I decided to construct them in the smallest size available (this meant going one size down in waist and two in the hip). In the end, this did end up being a bit too tight so I made the seam allowance smaller in the inner leg seam by 0.5 cm. This gave me more room and now they are tight but comfortable.

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The construction of this pattern is straightforward and it was the first pants pattern I ever made that was successful. So if you are reading this and are thinking of making a pair for the first time – go for it. There is nothing to lose but a few hours that will teach you a lot in the long run. The pattern instructions are great and with illustrations, you can make these pants with no problem. If  I did it so can you.

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The fabric is the 10oz Cone Mills S-gene stretch denim in white from Threadbare Fabrics my sister got me when she was in the US a while ago. It is a great fabric but be ready it will show every bump (but also almost every pair of underwear in your wardrobe). I have to see how to wear these bad boys or I have to get an invisible pair of underwear – do these exist? It is not really see-through but it is a white fabric after all. I was inspired by Charlie and Beck to use this fabric and basically copied them all the way. Thank you, ladies, for all the inspiration!

 

And one last thing I adore about these is I got to sneak some colour in after all – with buttons hidden in the fly! They are all the same size as required in the pattern but they are all different colors and were left all alone in my button stash. So it was ideal to use them in this project and do a bit of stash busting – my favorite activity after sewing!

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Overall I am in love with these pants and happy I pushed my self forward with getting a more stand out piece into my wardrobe. I am now off to see how long I can go without getting coffee, food or mud on them. Wish me luck!

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Thank you for reading!

Ana

 

 

Kalle shirt – pattern by Closet Case Patterns

I love wearing shirts more than I love sewing them, but I definitely do not like ironing them. But that is the irony of life, ey? I love a crisp collar, buttons (yet buttonholes being probably one of the reasons why shirts are not my favorite from the garment sewing realm) and also how a shirt lifts up an outfit. I feel more “ready” when wearing one, isn’t that interesting? I just look down and think to myself – sh** I a wearing a shirt, I can do this!

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I was looking at all the Kalle’s on Instagram and wanted to do my own version for a while. I finally decided to make it and use up this remnant I had from an earlier project I still have not blogged about (there seems to be more of these sneaky bastards by now, I should flex my fingers on the keyboard more). It is a viscose fabric I got a while ago in a local shop. It irons very well, let me tell you. If only all the shirts were like this (please?).

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The pattern comes in three variations and I decided to make the cropped shirt. Other variations are tunic and dress. I made a dress before and love, love, love it (and wrote about it on Minerva Crafts blog). From back then I knew I needed a swayback adjustment so had this already adjusted on the pattern. This adjustment is a saver for me – you do not know how many bad fitting tops I made over the years before I found out about this little gem.

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The hem is finished with a facing. This little piece of fabric gave me so much headache during construction. The problem was probably in the fact that I cut out the pattern sometime in April and had it lying on the table until October so this pattern piece stretched out. My bad, but boy did I lose my mind a few times. Sewed it two times with no luck and too many puckers so left it for a week. Then I came back to it and just figured I should lay the bodice piece over the facing and just cut the excess fabric from the facing that stretched out. This worked a treat and I could sew the two together with no problem. Victory. But this part is a bit tricky to sew, especially for any fabric that has a mind of its own (read: slippery).

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This was my first time sewing a hidden button placket. This also boggled my mind for a while until I realized I was holding it the other way around than it is instructed. I have bright moments like this from time to time, don’t be jealous. Don’t use your head and you can have them, too. Easy peasy. Ok, back to the construction. The other parts of shirt construction are easy and straightforward. The instructions are great and there is also extra help on the CCP blog to hold your hand.

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I realized that the collar stands really high on this pattern. I had not really noticed it from looking at the pictures but when I made it, it felt higher than I would like. At first, it felt strange. But after wearing it, it felt good and not constraining in any way. And there is always the option to wear it open and I like to have both options at hand.

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The front bodice is really cropped so good thing I have several high waisted pants in my wardrobe by now so I have something to wear it with. I think they look really good together, don’t you think? I am interested to see if I can also combine it with a skirt, not sure I have seen a combo like that on the old gram so far.

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I now have only the tunic variation of this pattern left untouched. I do have a fabric I want to make it in, I only need time. From my experience, it will take a long time to get it out and then a few months more to get it on the blog. But patience will bring me far, right?

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Thank you for reading,

Ana

Burda Style Achromatic Cardigan

I walked by a local fabric store one day and stopped in my tracks. There was this fabric in the window that called my name. It was modern yet somehow different, double-sided and so cool. It was black and white with many faces looking back at me.


Prolazila sam ispred lokalnog dućana s tkaninama jedan dan i zaustavila se na mjestu. U izlogu je bila tkanina koja me zvala. Bila je moderna, a opet nekako drugačija s duplom stranom i tako kul. Bila je crno-bijela i s puno lica koja su me gledala. 

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I knew I wanted to make it into a cardigan with the black side on the outside and white peeking out in the front. I instantly had a pattern in mind and after a bit of an internal assessment (read: hours of not being able to get it out of my head), I went for it. It is a Burdastyle pattern I already used before so I had it already traced out, which was great. It is the 117 B from 8/2011 magazine.


Znala sam da ju želim pretvoriti u nekakvu vestu s crnom stranom s vanjske strane, a da bijela strana na mjestima viri. Odmah sam imala kroj u glavi koji sam htjela koristiti i nakon malo mozganja (čitaj: satima nisam nikako mogla izbaciti sliku iz glave), za njega sam se i odlučila. Koristila sam kroj 117 B iz Burda Style časopisa 8/2011. Već sam ga ranije koristila tako da sam ga već imala iscrtanog i spremnog što je uvijek super vijest.

 

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The construction was fast and straightforward. Usually, I keep away from Burda patterns because of their sizing and ease built into them, but this cardigan is supposed to be loose and roomy so it was a perfect choice. The cardigan is constructed with a zig-zag stitch and all hems are first zig-zagged and then turned inside and finished with a straight stitch.


Izrada je bila brza i jednostavna. Inače se držim podalje od Burdinih krojeva zbog njihovih veličina i toga što im krojevi uvijek imaju dodatnog lufta, ali obzirom da je ova vesta ionako velika i široka to mi nije smetalo. Sašila sam ju sa cik-cak šavom, a sve rubove sam uz cik-cak šav dovršila presavijenim i ravnim šavom.

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The fabric is a real mistery. It is a sort of a knit and has a bit of stretch but it was unraveling at the raw edges which does not happen with a true knit. That is why I had to finish all edges with a zig-zag stitch before it was all gone 🙂
But the print makes up for it so I did not mind.


Tkanina je pravi misterij. To je nekakav džersej i sitno je rastezljiv ali se rasplitao na rubovima što nije tipično za džersej tkanine. Zbog toga sam trebala sve rubove završiti cik-cak šavom prije nego se sve rasplelo 🙂
Ali s ovim printom sam sve to zanemarila.

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This is a short post with not much to report but the fact I love this cardigan crazy amount! With this single garment, a basic outfit becomes so much better and I feel great wearing it. I think this is one of the fastest turnarounds form buying the fabric to making the final garment. And that does not happen a lot.


Ovo je kratki ali slatki post u kojem nemam što puno za pisati osim toga koliko sam ludo zadovoljna s ovom vestom. S njom i najobičnija kombinacija postaje zanimljivija. Ovo je svakako bila jedna od najbržih izrada od kupljene tkanine do finalnog komada. A to se ne događa često.

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Thank you for reading!
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Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Zadie Jumpsuit review – pattern by Paper Theory Patterns

I made my first jumpsuit! Well, ahem….I made it in June but I had a long break from blogging so I am only writing about it now. But better late than never, right? So let’s get to it then.

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Sašila sam svoj prvi kombinezon! Pa, hm….sašila sam ga još u lipnju, ali kako sam imala podužu pauzu od bloga, tek sad pišem o tome. Ali bolje ikad nego nikad, jel da? Ajmo se onda odmah baciti na detalje. 

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When Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns came out everyone went nuts for it. I thought it was interesting but that it wasn’t for me. But then I kept seeing all the Zadies popping up on Instagram and when I saw firs few with a bit of ease taken out I was into it. I got the pattern and went straight to it. What was the right push at the right moment was the Sew Together for Summer Challenge on Instagram. It is a challenge run by lovely ladies Monika, Sarah and Suzy with a different theme every year. This year it was a jumpsuit – challenge accepted!

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Kada se pojavio Zadie kombinezon od Paper Theory Patterns, svi su poludili. Meni se činio interesantnim, ali ne kao nešto što je za mene. Ali onda su se počeli pojavljivati postovi o Zadie na Instagramu sa svih strana i kada sam vidjela prve kombinezone kod kojih su cure maknule višak materijala shvatila sam da to je kroj za mene. I odmah sam se bacila na posao. Pravi poticaj u pravo vrijeme bio je izazov Sew Together for Summer Challenge koji na Instagramu organiziraju Monika, Sarah i Suzy. Izazov svake godine ima drugu temu, a ove godine je to bio kombinezon – izazov prihvaćen!

 

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The challenge lasts for a full month of June but I sewed mine in two days at the end of the challenge finishing it on the day we were out the door for a short summer break. There is nothing like last-minute sewing. As there were already many Zadies out there I was able to see what others were commenting about the fit and how they dealt with it. I did not like the ease that is in the pattern, especially in the bottom part, so I knew I would be taking it in. What many others also mentioned is that the crotch seam is a bit too low. So, with all the wisdom from the online sewing community (thank you everyone!), I decided on what to do with mine.

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Izazov traje cijeli lipanj, a ja sam svoj kombinezon sašila u dva dana. Dovršila sam ga ujutro na dan kada smo išli na kratki ljetni odmor na more. Nema ništa kao šivanje u zadnji čas. Kako je već puno cura dovršilo svoje Zadie kombinezone mogla sam pročitati dosta o tome koje su one promjene radile kroju za bolji fit. Kako mi se nije sviđala originalna širina u kroju znala sam da ću ga sužavati. Ono što je dosta cura još spominjalo je nisko međunožje. I tako sa skupljenom svom mudrosti online šivaće zajednice (hvala svima!), odlučila sam što trebam napraviti sa krojem.

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ALTERATIONS

Based on my measurements I cut out the smallest size, which is two sizes smaller from my waist and hip measurements and one size smaller from my bust measurement. On top of that, I took in the side seams by 1 cm on both the bodice and pants. To raise the crotch I shortened the rise by 4 cm on the pants pattern pieces and took out 1 cm from the bottom of the bodice pieces. And this was the perfect amount. Next time I might transfer 1 or 2 cm from bodice to the pants to raise the waistline, but it also works as is. I just prefer a higher waistline on me.

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Prema mojim mjerama izrezala sam najmanju veličinu iz kroja. Ona je manja za dva broja od broja za moj struk i kukove i jedan broj za prsa. Uz to, dodatno sam sa strane hlača i gornjeg dijela kroja maknula 1 centimetar. Da bi podignula međunožje, skratila sam vrh hlača za 4 cm i gornji dio za 1 cm. I tih 5 centimetara je bilo taman. Idući put ću vjerojatno pomaknuti struk više gore. U redu je i ovako kako je sada, ali osobno više preferiram visoki struk.

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The fabric is a mystic fabric I bought in Vietnam. It is some sort of linen but it definitely has other fibers mixed in it. I should have done a burn test to see how it would react. if I find some scraps somewhere I will do that. The fabric behaved well under both the sewing machine and iron and I had no trouble with it.

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Materijal je mistična tkanina iz Vijetnama. Trebao bi biti lan, ali sam sigurna da ima i drugih stvari izmiješanih u sastavu. Trebala sam napraviti test paljenja da vidim kako se ponaša. Ako nađem neke ostatke tkanine to ću svakako napraviti. Tkanina se ponašala dobro pod mašinom i peglom i nisam imala s njom nikakvih problema.

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The pattern is a beaut and it does not gape!! If the adjustments are done right and you wrap yourself in it, you (and your body parts) will stay securely wrapped all day long. It is also a very comfortable garment to wear so that is a big plus. I can really recommend this pattern. The only downside to it is the bathroom situation. You know, getting butt naked in a public toilet – a girl’s dream. Oh, and one fun fact for the end – I won one of the prizes from the Sew Together for Summer challenge for this make and I could not be happier! Thank you ladies – can’t wait for next year’s theme!

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Kroj je ljepotica i ništa ne zjapi na prsima! Ali su prepravke dobro napravljene i dobr se zamotate, vi (i dijelovi vašeg tijela) ostat ćete cijeli dan sigurno zamotani. Jako je udoban za nositi što je isto veliki plus. Stvarno mogu preporučiti ovaj kroj. Jedina mana je odlazak na wc. Gola guzica (i ne samo to) u javnom wc-u: san svake cure. I jedna zanimljivost za kraj – osvojila sam jednu od nagrada iz Sew Together for Summer izazova i ne mogu biti sretnija! Hvala cure – jedva čekam iduću godinu i novu temu!

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Have you made this pattern? I am planning on doing an autumn/winter version in another mystic fabric I have in my stash, this time with long sleeves.

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Jeste sašili već ovaj kroj? Ja planiram sašiti jesenku/zimsku verziju u još jednoj mističnoj tkanini koju imam doma, ovaj put s dugim rukavima. 

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Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Kew skirt by Nina Lee Patterns

Kew dress pattern by Nina Lee is a beauty but I have not made a dress yet. I made a top before and blogged about it here and this time I made the skirt. Love when a pattern can be made into so many different garments. Next time, I will make a dress, but until then separates it is.

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Kew haljina od Nine Lee je divna ali još ju nisam napravila. Do sada sam napravila top o kojem sam ranije pisala ovdje, a ovaj put sam naravila suknju. Super mi je kada iz jednog kroja mogu naraviti toliko različitih odjevnih predmeta. Idući put ću napraviti haljinu jer bi bila super za ljeto. 

 

I finally used up this gorgeous floral fabric I had in my stash for so long I don’t even remember when and where I got it. It works so well with this pattern and I now I have a favourite skirt. Additionally, I also used up another old fabric that kind of got ruined in the wash as the lining. You can not see it, so it being ruined in the wash did not matter. I put it in for decency reasons since I though the main fabric could be too shear and it gives the extra layer to the skirt and makes it more firm and durable in the long run.

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Napokon sam iskoristila ovu divnu tkaninu s cvjetićima koju sam toliko dugo imala da niti ne pamtim kada sam ju točno kupila. Odlično paše za ovaj kroj i sada imam novu najdražu suknju. Čak sam iskoristila i drugu tkaninu iz zalihe za postavu koja se pofarbala u pranju. Ne vidi se tako da to što je uništena s bojom nema veze, a ipak sam našla način kako ju iskoristiti. Napravila sam i postavu jer nisam bila sigurna je li ovaj cvjetasti materijal dovoljno gusto tkan da nebi bio proziran, a i dodatan sloj joj daje čvrstoću pa će biti dugotrajnija.

It has a really high waist, REALLY high. That is new for me with skirts, but I like it. It is easy to make and the only time (and patience) consuming part is the buttons/buttonholes front closure. I say that because I had to put the buttons in three times. The first time around I was not really into doing it and rushed through sewing the buttons on. This resulted in pulling and a really awful looking skirt so I just took them right off. I put it on the side and came back to it after two months to fix it. I tried again but it turned out that the buttons I used were too thick and were pulling what ever I did with the tension. So I tried with other buttons and they worked like a charm!

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Suknja ima visok struk, STVARNO visok struk. To mi je novost kod suknji, ali mi se sviđa. Lagana je za izraditi i jedini vremenski (i po pitanju strpljenja) zahtjevan dio su gumbi i rupice za gumbe. To kažem zato što sam gumbe stavljala tri puta. Prvi put sam se žurila pa sam malo traljavo napravila posao. To je rezultiralo prečvrsto stegnutim gumbima, pa je suknja izgledala loše i bilo je puno povlačenja materijala u prednjem dijelu. Tako da sam ih odmah skinula. Ostavila sam suknju po strani i vratila joj se dva mjeseca kasnije da opet probam. Opet se desila ista stvar i ispalo je da su gumbi predebeli i povlače tkaninu bez obzira koliko se čvrsto ili labavo našiju. Uzela sam druge tanje gumbe i s njima je ispalo super iz prve!

 

I made the skirt in the smallest size and the fit is great. The only thing I would change next time is a curved waistband instead of the straight one because it does gape a bit on top. Another consideration would be to put a zip to the side so that the buttons on the front are not functional but just decorative. This would make it easier and faster to sew.

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Suknju sam napravila u najmanjoj veličini. Jedina stvar koju bi drugi put promijenila je zaobljeni pojas umjesto ravnog pojasa jer ravni pojas malo strši van u gornjem dijelu na mjestima. Druga promjena o kojoj bi razmislila je da cif ubacim na stranu, a gumbe našijem samo dekorativno. To bi puno olakšalo i ubrzalo izradu.

 

I made the hem longer in the back. I love it in general but I am not sure it is the best option for this particular skirt. I will not change it now because I am lazy, but for next time maybe I will skip that and make a straight hem.

The buttons are from my Mom’s stash she let me have last year so I am happy to report that this whole project was a stash buster! I give myself extra points for that alone : )

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Rub suknje je duži odostraga. To mi se generalno sviđa, ali nisam sigurna paše li mi baš najbolje na ovu suknju. Neću to mijenjati jer sam prelijena sad za to, ali ću idući put možda preskočiti i napraviti ravan rub.

Gumbi su iz mamine kutijice koju mi je dala prošle godine i sretna sam da mogu reći da je ovaj cijeli projekt nastao iz materijala koje sam već imala doma i napokon iskoristila! Za to si dajem dodatne bodove : )

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

Jenna Dress by By Hand London

I was a pattern tester for the first time and what better garment to test for than a beaut like the Jenna dress. This is the new pattern from By Hand London and it has two views. I decided to test the scoop neckline version – I just love the square neckline and the sleeve bow detail too much. The other version is also very interesting for an autumn/winter version, so I will probably be making that one later in the year as well.

Prvi put sam testirala kroj i kud sreće da je to baš Jenna haljina. To je novi kroj od By Hand London i ima dvije verzije. Odlučila sam se testirati verziju s otvorenim dekolteom i mašnama na rukavima jer su mi ta dva detalja jednostavno predobra da bi ih prekočila. Druga verzija je isto zanimljiva i bila bi super za jesensku/zimsku verziju haljine. Pa eto, možda u budućnosti napravim i tu verziju.

I used this strawberry fabric I got in Vietnam a bit over a year ago. It is a light cotton fabric, so not as floaty as viscose is, which is why the bias cut skirt looks more structured. If I make it again (and I just might) I will use a floatier fabric to really give the skirt its power of swishiness.

Iskoristila sam tkaninu s jagodama koju sam kupila u Vijetnamu prošle godine. Tkanina je lagani pamuk i pošto nije lepršav kao viskoza suknja bolje drži formu iako je rezana dijagonalno. Ako ću ju ponovo raditi (a baš bi mogla) napravit ću ju u viskozi da suknja bude baš lepršava.

The bodice is lined and I decided to line it in the same fabric to really make use out of it as much as I could. Also, as it is a spring/summer dress I knew that having a light cotton fabric against my skin would be much better than any lining fabric I had on hand in my stash.

Gornji dio haljine je podstavljen i za to sam iskoristila isti materijal jer sam ga taman imala dovoljno. A pošto je to ljetna haljina znala sam da bi mi lagani pamuk bio najbolja opcija, jer ništa drugo što sam imala pri ruci nije bilo dovoljno prozračno za nositi ljeti uz kožu.

The sleeves from this view are so so beautiful and my favourite detail. The bow gives it a special vibe and it is so easy to construct. I had a bit of a movement restriction with the muslin, so for the final version, I decided to grade the seam allowance from the top (shoulder) from regular 15 mm SA to 5 mm at the bottom (armpit). This helped a lot and my hands can cheerfully go up and down as they please. I always use my hands while talking as a proper south European, so that really helps.

Rukavi iz ove verzije su predivni i to mi je vjerojatno najbolji detalj. Mašna je kao šlag na torti, a tako je jednostavna za izraditi. Imala sam mali problem s pokretnošću ruku kod probne verzije, pa sam u finalnoj verziji mijenjala veličinu dodatka na šav od redovnog 15 mm na vrhu (kod ramena) do 5 mm u donjem dijelu (u podpazušnoj zoni). To mi je puno pomoglo i mogla sam micati normalno rukama kako poželim. A pošto koristim ruke redovno dok pričam kao prava stanovnica južne Europe, to stvarno puno znači.

I made the dress in the smallest size which fits perfectly. I choose the size based on the finished garment measurements, which is always a great indicator on the right size. I saw that the bust finished measurement was bigger than what I can fill so SBA (small bust adjustment) came to the rescue. I went on the By Hand London blog and found their posts for SBA from earlier patterns and applied it for Jenna. This worked out like a dream and the fit is spot on. I have enough ease to breathe and yet there is no gaping or access fabric where I do not want it.

Napravila sam haljinu u najmanjoj veličini i fit je odličan. Veličinu sam odabrala prema mjerama gotovog odjevnog predmeta što mi je uvijek najbolji indikator za odabir veličine. Vidjela sam da mi je veličina prsa prevelika u odnosu na to koliko ju mogu popuniti, tako da sam odlučila napraviti SBA (small bust adjustment ilitiga prilagodba malih prsa). Našla sam odličan tutorial za SBA na By Hand London blogu od par ranijih krojeva koji su mi poslužili za Jennu. Prilagodba je odlično uspjela i sad mi haljina odlično pristaje i to bez ikakvog neželjenog lufta, ali da pritom opet imam dovoljno prostora za disanje.

Overall, I really like this dress pattern and it can also be hacked into so many different versions which for me is always a plus. I am thinking of a long dress next, I just have to find the right fabric for it.

Sve u svemu, stvarno mi se sviđa ovaj kroj haljine i moguće ju je izmjeniti na toliko načina što je uvijek plus. Razmišljam i o nekoj dužoj verziji, samo moram pronaći pravi materijal.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Florence dress pattern by Sew Over it – when dress dreams come to life

Meet my autumn(est) dress ever. It is all about the fabric with this one, just look at all those different coloured leaves. If you ask me if I love autumn I really do not know what to say. I do love the colours, shift in the wardrobe, pants domination (preferably me-made), pleasant temperatures… but the one thing I do not love about it is the fact that summer is over. Not really something to blame on autumn, but there you go. So, I guess I do like it, but by the time I get accustomed to it, it is already almost winter. And the same thing every year. But, this time I made an autumn dress and I am ready for all future autumns coming my way!

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Upoznajte moju najjesenskiju haljinu ikada. Kod ove je sve u tkanini, pogledajte sve te listove raznih boja. Ako me pitate volim li jesen stvarno ne znam što da odgovorim. Volim boje jeseni, promjenu u garderobi, dominaciju hlača (po mogućnosti izrađene by moi), ugodne temperature….ali jedna stvar koju ne volim kod jeseni je činjenica da je ljeto gotovo. Znam da nije fer za to kriviti jesen, al eto. Na kraju pretpostavljam da ipak volim jesen, ali dok se priviknem na promjenu već je zima na vratima i tako svake godine. Ali ovaj put sam napravila jesensku haljinu i sad sam spremna za svaku iduću jesen koja dolazi!

The pattern is Florence dress by Sew Over It. This dress was interesting to me from the start and if you missed it, the pattern is named after Florence of Florence and the Machine. And as I already mentioned in one previous post she is one of my style icons and coolest gals out there. Her name is a definition of a long dress for me so this is all just so appropriate.

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Kroj je Florence haljina od Sew Over It. Odmah mi se svidio kad su ga izdali, a dijelom i zbog imena – nazvan je prema prema Florence iz Forence and the Machine. Kako sam već napisala u jednom ranijem postu, ona je jedna od meni najdražih stilskih ikona i općenito kul žena i njeno ime za mene znači u prijevodu duga haljina, tako da ovo sve zajedno ne može biti prikladnije.

The pattern is easy to construct. In original, it has a mandarin collar but I lengthened it to get the bow. It was the easiest hack ever and looks so great. I lengthened the pattern piece of the mandarin collar as much as I could – it was determined by the amount of fabric I had. But you can easily make it longer or shorter based on the bow size you like. And that is why sewing is great!

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Kroj je jednostavan za šivanje. Originalno dolazi s polovičnom kragnom (tzv. Mandarin kragna) ali ja sam ju produžila kako bi dobila mašnu koja se veže oko vrata. Ta izmjena je toliko jednostavna, a toliko efektna. Dužina nove kragne je bila definirana količinom tkanine koju sam u tom trenutku imala na raspolaganju. Ovisno o veličini mašne koju hoćete, kragna se lako može produžiti ili skratiti da dobijete točno ono što želite. I zbog toga je šivanje super!

As the pattern is easy to construct and I want the dress to last a long time I made the (almost) entire thing with french seams, apart from the armhole opening. Not sure why I have not done it there as well but I guess I was either eager to finish it or once I basted the sleeves to check the fit I was too lazy to unpick them. But hopefully, it will still last many autumns to come.

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Kako je kroj jednostavan za konstrukciju odlučila sam uložiti više vremena i skoro sve šavove sam izradila sa tzv „French seam“  šavom (šav za zatvorenim živim rubom tkanine). Jedino ga nisam napravila na otvoru za rukav, vjerojatno iz lijenosti ili žurbe. Tu se isto lako može napraviti, ali kako sam prvo probno prošila rukav da provjerim je li sve uredu nije mi se dalo parati da bi napravila istu stvar s francuskim šavom. Ali nadam se da će me svejedno ova haljina služiti mnogo godina.

 

The pattern has elasticated waist which is not my favourite but does look good, is easy to construct and wear. I was thinking of how I would avoid it next time (I am not a fan!) to get the effect of the elasticated waist without really having one. I did literally just that – no elastic – in my second version which is coming to the blog soon, keep your eyes peeled!

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Kroj koristi elastičnu gumu za skupljanje u struku, što osobno nije moj najdraži detalj, ali je brzo i jednostavno za izradu i nošenje. Razmišljala sam kako bi točno izbjegla taj korak, a da i dalje skupim tkaninu u struku. To sam i napravila – bez elastike – na drugoj verziji koji isto uskoro dolazi na blog!

I used a viscose fabric with falling leaves on a blue background I got while in Vietnam last spring. It was a great option for this pattern. My sister is the one who talked me into buying it, so thank you, sis! We first saw the same fabric with a dark green background which looked ok, but something was just not speaking to me. But then I saw the blue colourway one and the rest is history.

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Izradila sam ju u viskoznoj tkanini s raznobojnim lišćem koju sam kupila na putu u Vijetnamu prošlo proljeće. Tkanina odlično ide s ovim krojem. Sestra me nagovorila da kupim ovaj materijal, tako da hvala seka! Prvo smo vidjele isti uzorak tkanine na tamno zelenoj podlozi koja je bila ok, ali nešto joj je falilo. A onda sam ugledala ovu s plavom podlogom i ostalo je povijest.

Golden rule: take pictures on a day with no wind. I am great at following my own rules / zlatno pravilo: slikajte se na dan bez vjetra. Ja sam super u tome da se držim vlastitih pravila.

I received a great reaction on this dress over on Instagram and thank you all for your likes and comments. This gal is happy when something she made with her hands is so well received.

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Na Instagramau sam za ovu haljinu dobila odličnu reakciju i hvala svima na lajkovima i komentarima. Ova cura je sretna kada nešto što je napravila vlastitim rukama bude tako lijepo primljeno.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana