Gaia Quilted Coat by Named Clothing

I made a new coat and I am so pumped about it! The pattern I used is the Gaia Quilted coat by Named Patterns. I am surprised that I lean toward coat patterns that are not fitted, because when I was buying RTW ones before, I always looked at them being more cinched in the waist. Funny how that changes.

 

This pattern has some details I never saw on a coat before and it just drew me in. Shoulder detail is here no. 1 for me and I just love that. Lapel is the very second and it maybe the thing that draws the eye in more. I was in!

The pattern is oriented towards advanced sewers. It would be useful if you already made a coat before you take this project on, but maybe with time and patience even an advanced beginner could make it. Maybe? I made my first coat last winter so had already the experience of bagging out the lining and working with wool. That was the Chloe coat by Sew Over It from the Intro to Sewing Coats course and I blogged about it here. I am a visual person so working on my first coat with video support was really helpful.

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Napravila sam novi kaput i oduševljena sam! Koristila sam Gaia Quilted kroj od Named Patterns. Iznenađena sam kako posežem za krojevima kaputa koji nisu uski u struku. Još dok sam kupovala kapute uvijek sam gledala da imaju neku formu u tom dijelu. Zanimljivo kako se to mijenja.

Ovaj kroj ima neke odlične detalje koje ranije nisam vidjela na kaputima i to me privuklo. Najbolji detalj mi je svakako detalj na ramenima, a drugi je rever koji možda i više privlači pogled.  I to je ono s čime me ovaj kroj kupio (iako sam naravno ja kupila njega). 

Kroj je namijenjen naprednijim krojačicama. Po mojem mišljenju je korisno da već imate iskustvo šivanja kaputa prije ovog projekta, ali možda uz dovoljno vremena i strpljenja bi ga čak i naprednija manje iskusna krojačica mogla svladati. Možda? Svoj prvi kaput sam napravila prošle zime tako da imam iskustvo izvlačenja postave i šivanja s vunom. Za njega sam koristila kroj Chloe od Sew Over It iz njihovog online tečaja Intro to Sewing Coats i o njemu sam pisala ranije ovdje. Vizualno bolje učim, pa lakše korake shvaćam iz videa nego iz pisanih uputa i to mi je tada puno pomoglo.

Shoulder detail / detalj na ramenu

I did encounter few glitches along the way. Maybe that was just me, maybe it was the fabric I choose. I made my coat from boiled wool I got at a local store in Zagreb. This fabric is thicker that the fabric Named girls used in their sample garment. It looks great in the end, but it did mean more pressing and more volume on the seams where more fabric layers were on top of each other. But hey, that is coat making…..

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Imala sam na neke probleme u koracima kod konstrukcije. Možda sam to samo ja, možda je to samo odabir tkanine. Kaput sam izradila iz kuhane vune koju sam nabavila u lokalnom dućanu Svijet tkanine u Zagrebu. Ova tkanina je deblja od tkanine koju su Named cure koristile za svoj pokazni primjerak. Na kraju kaput izgleda super, samo sam morala puno više koristiti peglu i imala sam puno deblji sloj materijala koji je morao proći kroz mašinu. Al čuj, to je izrada kaputa…..

And let’s talk about the colour! I am feeling a bigger need for colourful clothes than ever before. I used to dress in black, gray and brown all my teenage years and it probably remains my base palette now. I did make more colourful garments but overall I am craving it more and more. That is why I am happy to have a coloured coat now! The first one was camel and although it is not black it still felt „too safe“. Not that I am screaming colour with a rust coat but I am closer to that. It really cheers me up to put it on and whenever I look down or in the mirror I smile. So I guess I did it right.

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Sad malo o boji! Imam veću potrebu za šarenom odjećom nego ikad prije. U tinejdžerskim godinama sam se uglavnom oblačila u sivu, crnu i smeđu i to se zadržalo kao neka baza u mojoj garderobi. Izradila sam već neke šarenije komade, ali sada ih želim još više. Upravo zato sam sretna što sad imam kaput u boji! Prvi kaput koji sam izradila bio je bež i iako bež nije crna svejedno je nekako „presigurna“. Nije da sad vrištim u tamno narančastom kaputu, ali svakako sam bliže tome. Svaki put se nasmiješim kada pogledam dolje ili se vidim u ogledalu dok nosim kaput tako da sam svakako napravila nešto dobro.

COAT CONSTRUCTION

I made a muslin to check the fit before cutting into my precious wool. I made my coat in the smallest size offered in the pattern. After I saw this size would work I made up the lining and then started assembling the coat shell. It takes longer because of all the pressing and I used a wood “tool” for better results. Usually a tailor’s wood clapper is used for this, but I do not have one and just used a leftover piece from the floor moulding. But any flat piece of wood in the right size works. I used a gauze between the iron and wool not to leave any marks on the fabric and pressed (not ironed) the wool. Ironing it might stretch the fabric. Then I removed the iron and the gauze and pressed the seam surface with wood until it completely cooled down. This way wood takes the heat from the fabric and wool keeps the shape. I had to repeat it few times with bulkier seams at the pockets.
I avoid pressing from the right side of the fabric to avoid any possible marks on the fabric, especially if the fabric has a nap.

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IZRADA KAPUTA

Izradila sam probnu test verziju da provjerim veličinu prije nego zarežem u svoju dragocjenu vunu. Kaput sam izradila u najmanjoj veličini ponuđenoj u kroju. Kada sam utvrdila da je veličina dobra sašila sam postavu i počela sastavljati vanjski dio (ljusku?) kaputa. Ovaj dio traje duže zbog konstantnog peglanja šavova i za to sam koristila drvo za bolji rezultat. Za to se u pravilu koristi konkretan krojački drveni predmet (težak i ima dršku s donjom ravnom površinom za pritiskanje podloge; eng tailor’s wood clapper) ali kako ga nemam koristila sam preostali komad drva od lajsni. Bilo koji komad drva ravne površine i odgovarajuće veličine može poslužiti za ovu svrhu. Nisam peglala direktno vunu nego sam između uvijek stavljala gazu (to je bitno da pegla ne ostavi tragove na tkanini). Pritiskala sam toplom peglom preko gaze na mjestu gdje su šavovi. Kod peglanja je bitno da se pegla ne pomiče,  već podiže i spušta da ne bi rastegnula tkaninu. Kad maknem peglu i gazu na to mjesto stavim komad drva i pritićem dok se tkanina ne ohladi. Na ovaj način drvo preuzme toplinu iz tkanine i vuna tako zadrži oblik. To sam trebala ponoviti više puta na mjestima gdje su šavovi bili deblji, kao kod džepova. Izbjegavam peglati vunu s prednje strane materijala da izbjegnem ostavljanje tragova od peglanja, pogotovo ako tkanina ima dubinu (ako je 3D) kao što ju ima kuhana vuna.

 

This is how I feel every time I wear this coat / ovako se osjećam svaki put kad nosim kaput

I made the mistake of making entire pockets out of wool. I could have used lining fabric for the inside of the pockets. I went with wool because I wanted it to be warmer. Now when the whole thing is finished and pressed and pressed (and pressed) it looks good and is warm but I had to work on it way longer than needed if I had one less layer of wool there. Just something to keep in mind for next time.

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Napravila sam tu grešku da sam cijeli džep izradila iz vune. Moja greška je što nisam koristila postavu za unutrašnjost džepa. Za to sam isto koristila vunu jer sam htjela da džep bude topliji. Sad kad je sve gotovo i ispeglano, ispeglano (i još jednom ispeglano) izgleda dobro i toplo je, ali sam morala potrošiti više vremena za te korake nego što bi trebala da sam koristila postavu i radila s tanjim slojem. Nije velika greška, ali nešto o čemu ću bolje drugi put razmisliti.

A slap in the face was when I constructed the shell and tried it on. This is the first moment you get to see how it will look on you. I was a bit disappointed because I looked lost in it. I looked like a 12 year old girl in mom’s big coat. It was just too big and this is the smallest size in the pattern. It really made me feel all different kinds of feelings and I realised that in my experience there are pattern companies that stop with a bottom pattern size that is apparently above my size. So I let it sit for that day and picked it up again the day after. Then I took the sides in from the middle of the sleeve all the way to the pockets. I took it in for about 2 centimetres which sums up to a total of about 8 cm in the overall width of the coat! This helped a lot with the fit on the back as there was too much fabric there that just looked funny. I also had to take in the same amount on the lining so they would fit together.

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Kada sam sašila ljusku kaputa probala sam ga i osjećaj je bio kao pljuska po licu. To je prvi trenutak u kojem se može probati kaput i dobiti dojam kako će izgledati. Bila sam razočarana jer sam izgledala izgubljeno u njemu. Izgledala samo kao dvanaestogodišnja djevojčica u maminom prevelikom kaputu. Jednostavno je bio prevelik, a to je najmanja veličina koja se nudi u kroju. To je pokrenulo cijelu paletu osjećaja, ali i realizaciju da ima više firmi koje svoje krojeve izrađuju s najmanjom veličinom koja je meni prevelika. Odlučila sam za taj dan sve ostaviti po strani i vratila mu se opet idući dan. Onda sam suzila kaput na stranama od sredine rukava sve do džepova. Suzila sam ga za otprilike 2 centimetra, što je ukupno 8 centimetara na cijeloj širini kaputa! To je puno pomoglo za izgled leđa jer je prethodno tu bilo previše materijala što je izgledalo smiješno. Istu količinu sam trebala suziti i na postavi da bi odgovarala kaputu. 

 

When facings were attached it started looking like a proper coat and I fell back in love with it. Then the problem was figuring out how to get the lapels to sit flat without doing topstitching. I posted a question about it in my Instagram stories and got some great advice. Thank you to everyone who wrote, I really appreciate it and I did learn something new! Read bellow.

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Kad sam sašila revere počeo je ličiti na kaput i opet sam se zaljubila. Onda se javio problem kako dobiti da rever sjedne lijepo bez šivanja s vanjske strane. Postavila sam pitanje vezano za to na Instagram storyu i dobila sam odlične savjete. Hvala svima koji su odgovorili, puno ste mi pomogli i naučila sam nešto novo! Čitaj u nastavku.

 

Advice I got:

  1. Topstitch
  2. Understitch bottom side of the fabric (bottom side being the side you can not see. You change understitching from the facing on the bottom to the shell on the lapels).
  3. Hand stitch from the inside – invisible from outside and would anchor the facing down
  4. Use fuse tape
  5. Press and lay something heavy on it until it cools down

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Savjeti koje sa dobila:

  1. Prošiti površinski vidljivi šav duž revera
  2. Prošiti nevidljivi šav na licu revera – nevidljivo s gornje strane
  3. Ručno prošiti rever s unutarnje strane – nevidljivo s gornje i donje strane
  4. Koristiti ljepljivu traku
  5. Ispeglati i na vrh postaviti nešto teško dok se ne ohladi

I tried to avoid no. 1, because I just did not want to do it on this particular coat.

I tried no. 2 on the lower part of the front understitching the facing, but that did not make much change at all. I ironed it and it did sit flat but when moving the facing kept poking out and the seam turned to the outside.

I also tried to avoid no. 3 because I am lazy and as I did not have any fuse tape at hand no. 4 was also not an option.

I tried no. 5 several times, and it worked well only when I used a wet gauze. I was afraid it would shrink my wool as I did not pretreat it (preshrink it), but it did not do any of that. It flattened the wool so beautifully. I tested it on a scarp first of course to make sure I don’t cry when it is too late. That was my mom’s advice, so thank you mom!

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Pokušala sam izbjeći br. 1, jer nisam htjela taj detalj na ovom kaputu.

Br. 2 sam probala na donjem dijelu prednjice kaputa, ali nije bilo nikakve razlike. Ispeglala sam taj dio i bolje je izgledalo, ali kada bi se kretala šav bi se počeo izvrtati.

Također sam probala izbjeći br. 3 jer sam lijena, a pošto nisam imala ljepljivu traku doma br. 4 nije bio opcija.  

Br. 5 sam probala nekoliko puta i najveći pomak je bio kada sam smočila gazu. Bojala sam se da će para skupiti vunu. Nisam ju prije šivanja pripremila u tom smislu, parila ju peglom da se stisne, pa nisam htjela da se to desi u trenutku kad su svi krojni komadi već izrezani po mjeri. Ali to se nije desilo i vuna se ispeglala tako lijepo. To sam prvo naravno testirala na viška vune da nebi u suprotnom plakala kad je prekasno. To je bio mamin savjet, pa hvala mama!

From all the great advice received I went with no. 3 in the end and hand-stitched both front seams from the inside with a ladder stitch. I saw Cotton & Curls on Instagram repairing clothes that way recently and I thought that would be a good option. And it was, it worked like a charm! I think that might be my go-to method from now on. What I will do better next time is not pull so strong on the thread because you can see a bit of pulling if you look closely. But not something that bothers me too much.

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Od svih dobivenih savjeta odlučila sam se za br. 3 i ručno sam prošila unutrašnjost prednjeg šava s tzv. ladder stitch (u slobodnom prijevodu ljestvičasti šav). Vidjela sam da je nedavno Cotton & Curls na Instagramu objavila video kako s tim šavom popravlja rupe na odjeći i činilo mi se da bi to super funkcioniralo ovdje. I je, odlučno je odradilo točno ono što sam htjela! Mislim da bi to od sad nadalje mogla biti moja najdraža metoda završavanja kragni kod kaputa. Drugi put ću pripaziti da ne vučem tako jako konac jer se na mjestima vidi zatezanje. To nije nešto što me previše smeta, ali je bila dobra škola za ubuduće.

After that it was a breeze. I sewed the lining to the facing, finished sleeve and bottom seams and bagged out the lining.

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Nakon toga je bilo jednostavno. Spojila sam postavu i ljusku kaputa, završila šavove na rukavima i na dnu kaputa i izvukla postavu (metoda koja se koristi za strojno završavanje rubova umjesto ručnog završavanja koje duže traje – eng. bagging out the lining).

In the end I hand stitched the best label in and that is basically all I could have said about this coat because it truly was made with love and swear words!

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Na  kraju sam ručno našila etiketu i te riječi s etikete su upravo ono što mogu reći o ovom kaputu jer je stvarno napravljen s ljubavlju i psovkama!

I love my new coat and I have been wearing it non stop since I made it. And that is what it’s all about folks! I also caught the coat making bug and really want to make another coat this winter. Let’s see if that happens.

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Obožavam svoj novi kaput i nosila sam ga svaki dan otkad sam ga napravila. I to je poanta svega ovoga! A dodatno sam se i zarazila sa šivanjem kaputa i želim napraviti još jedan prije kraja zime. Ajmo vidjeti hoće li se to i dogoditi.

Can you see how much I love this coat / možete vidjeti koliko volim ovaj kaput?

Thank you for reading,

Hvala na čitanju,

Ana

TNT patterns for the win / Pobjeda TNT krojeva

Do you have tried and true patterns (TNT)? When I started sewing I did not have them and I could not imagine making one pattern more than once. There is so many of them and I only had my Burdas at that time and had no idea of the Indie scene out there. So many patterns, so many fabrics and so little time. And to waist it on the same pattern twice, madness.
But with time I saw my wishes, sewing practice and planning of my makes change. And for the better. Now I make a pattern more than once. 4 or 5 times in fact with some of them. I now see the beauty in finding a pattern that fits great and then playing with it to make hacks or simply use a different fabric to get a completely different garment. Fabric is a powerful tool, don’t you think?

 

Imate li vi isprobane krojeve za koje znate da su vam dobri (eng. tried and true – TNT). Kada sam počela šivati nisam imala takve krojeve i nisam niti mogla zamisliti sašiti isti kroj više puta. Ima toliko puno krojeva, a u početku sam znala samo za krojeve u Burda časopisu (za Indie nisam imala pojma). Toliko puno krojeva, toliko puno materijala, a tako malo vremena. I potratiti to vrijeme na isti kroj više puta, čista ludost.
Ali s vremenom sam primijetila da su se želje, moja praksa šivanja i planiranje uradaka promijenili. Na bolje. Sada pojedine krojeve izradim više puta. Neke čak 4 ili 5 puta. Shvatila sam ljepotu u pronalasku kroja koji vam dobro stoji i s kojim se možete igrati i mijenjati ga da bi dobili slične, ali različite odjevne predmete. Samo upotrebom drugačije tkanine možete dobiti u potpunosti različiti komad odjeće. Tkanina je moćno oružje, slažete se?

 

 

 

And it was only recently that I started making one pattern in more versions. I believe the first pattern I made for the second time was the Flint pattern by Megan Nielsen blogged here. I loved it so much and I could see it in all different fabrics and colours. So I made two versions and now I am in process of batch sewing two new pairs (one of which will be shorts, how exciting!).

 

Relativno nedavno sam počela koristiti isti kroj više puta. Mislim da je prvi takav kroj bio Flint kroj za hlače od Megan Nielsen o kojem sam već pisala ovdje. Bio mi je super i mogla sam ga vidjeti u svim tkaninama i bojama. Do sada sam napravila dvije verzije, a trenutno sam u fazi izrade dva nova para (od kojih će jedne biti krate hlače za ljeto, kako uzbudljivo!).

 

dav
Flint dance / Flint ples

IMG-20171004-WA0004

 

Another TNT pattern is the Ultimate Shift dress by Sew Over It. I have not made the dress version yet but I made 5 tops. One long sleeved for winter and 4 sleeveless for summer. I love how simple they are but so essential for my wardrobe. The crisp and straight lines make it a blank page for your fabrics to do all the work. And I have about 4 dress ideas and hacks I want to try so this one could easy become my most made pattern over time.

 

Drugi TNT kroj je Ultimate shift kroj za haljinu od Sew Over It. Nisam izradila još niti jednu haljinu ali sam napravila 5 majica. Jednu s dugim rukavima za zimu i 4 bez rukava za ljeto. Sviđa mi se jednostavnost kroja koji je ujedno toliko značajan u mojoj garderobi. Jasne ravne linije od kroja čine prazan list papira koji lako pofarbate tkaninom i nju prepustite da ona odradi sav ‘posao’. Za izradu haljina imam barem 4 ideje kako ju doraditi i učiniti drugačijom pa vjerujem da će mi uskoro ovo lako ostati najkorišteniji kroj.

 

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Ultimate top for ultimate comfort / Ultimativna majica za ultimativni komfor

 

Sewing with knits was a big discovery for me. Most of the patterns I have for knits become TNT patterns because they are the staples in my wardrobe. The first knit patterns is used were Paola turtleneck by Named Patterns (blogged here), Agnes top by Tilly and the Buttons and Molly top by Sew Over It. All three patterns are easy and fast to make and they are now occupying one whole shelve in my closet. I have 3 Paolas, 3 Molly tops and 1 Moll dress, 4 Agnes tops and 1 Agnes dress. And these are some of my makes I wear the most because they are comfortable and are a great base you can easily dress up with other separates.

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Šivanje s rastezljivim tkaninama je za mene bilo veliko otkriće. Većina krojeva koje imam su postali TNT krojevi jer su ti komadi baza moje garderobe. Prvi krojevi s kojima sam radila bili su Paola dolčevita od Named Patterns (više o tome možete pročitati ovdje), Agnes majica od Tilly and the Buttons i Molly majica od Sew Over It. Sva tri kroja su jednostavna i brza za izradu i sada zauzimaju čitavu policu u mojem ormaru. Trenutno imam 3 Paole, 3 Molly majice i 1 Molly haljinu, 4 Agnes majice i 1 Agnes haljinu. To su ujedno i komadi koje najčešće nosim jer su ugodni i jako ih je lako kombinirati s ostalim komadima iz garderobe.

 

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Paolas – pattern by Named Clothing / kroj od Named Clothing
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Mollys – pattern by Sew Over It / kroj od Sew Over It
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Agneses – pattern by Tilly and the Buttons / kroj od Tilly and the Buttons

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Another knit garment I made is the Burda style sweatshirt from the January issue from 2017. I started sewing with Burda but gave up on it when I discovered Indie patterns companies. I find it hard to nail the fit with their patterns and was frustrated with their lack of instructions (and do not get me started on the fact that the Burda we get in Croatia is in German!). Indie pattern companies hold your hand through the whole process and therefore, in general, are easier to fit. So I stuck with them for a while but now that I know more and am more confident in my sewing skills I am slowly easing my self in Burda empire once again. I decided to start with a sweatshirt pattern as this seams the easiest considering it is not fitted and is a fast make. I had to work on it but I got there and I now have two sweatshirts I am really happy with so I am confident this will be one of the top TNT patterns in the future.

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Dodatan kroj za džersej tkanine je iz Burda časopisa iz siječnja 2017 godine. U početku sam šivala samo po Burdinim krojevima ali sam na neko vrijeme ruke od njih kada sam otkrila Indie firme. Imam problema prilagoditi Burdine krojeve i naći dobru veličinu i njihove šture upute za sastavljanje kroja su me dovodile do ludila (da ne spominjem kako su naše Burde na njemačkom jeziku). Indie firme vas drže a ruku kroz cijeli proces i zbog toga je sve nekako lakše. Tako da sam se držala Indie krojeva neko vrijeme, ali sada kada znam puno više i imam više sigurnosti u svoje znanje polako se vraćam Burdinom kraljevstvu krojeva. Odlučila sam početi s nečim laganim i učinilo mi se da bi kroj za opuštenu vestu bio idealan. Trebala sam malo raditi na veličini ali došla sam do kraja i sada imam dvije veste s kojima sam jako zadovoljna. Sigurna sam da će s vremenom ovaj kroj biti pri vrhu TNT krojeva na mojoj listi.

 

dav
Burda sweatshirt / Burda vesta

 

There are a lot of other patterns I already made and plan to make again because I like the fit and design so with time there will be an ever growing list of TNT patterns. But I think this is a good thing and it sets you on a path of no fail. There is nothing to not love about that.
Do you have any TNT patterns? I would love to know and maybe get more of them on my list of happy makes.

 

Ima još jako puno krojeva koje sam već izradila i planiram ih izraditi opet jer mi dobro pristaju i sviđa mi se dizajn. Tako da će s vremenom biti više krojeva na ovoj listi koja će, sigurna sam, biti sve duža i duža. Ali mislim da je to dobro jer vas vodi na put bez neuspjeha. Nema ništa što mi se kod toga ne može svidjeti.
Imate li vi svoje TNT krojeve? Voljela bi čuti i možda dodati neki na svoju istu sretnih uradaka.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana