Ginghamization

I shared this dress on Instagram few weeks ago and I got a lot of comments asking what pattern I used or how I made it so I thought I would write a blog post about it for anyone who might be interested. I made the dress two years ago and do not have any in progress shots so can not share any pictures of the steps involved, but I did try to describe it with words as much as I could. Just scroll down for the ginghamization goodness.

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Gingham is a well positioned fabric in the fashion world. I love it and think it always looks great. Somehow it is chic but casual at the same time. How is that even possible? Gingham superpowers at play. So when I saw the perfect gingham cotton fabric at a local fabric store I bought it straight away without even knowing what to make with it. I knew it would live it’s life as a dress but had not known in what form. I think I bought 2.5 or 3 meters of it, but it is hard to recall now. This is more like a guess based on the amount needed for the final dress plus I have a bit leftover.

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With time some ideas started brewing in my mind and I knew what kind of a dress I wanted. I did not have a pattern for it so decided to look for a basic bodice I could use as a base and work around it. I needed a simple bodice with two front and two back darts. What I wanted would not be suitable for princess seams or bust darts as the fabric pattern would look different and possibly strange/unattractive. I went for one I already used before and knew would work. It is bodice pattern from Burda Style dress no #101 from 2/2011 magazine issue. But you can use any bodice pattern with darts that suits you.

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Burda Style dress 101, 2/2017

 

I played around on paper first to see how the fabric placement would look. I find this as a good method when I want to play with fabric print and direction to test out the ideas.

 

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I am not one for beautiful sketches but good enough to get the feeling if it will work (and you can see it worked from all the ticks – why are they all there I have no idea)

 

And now the construction of the dress.

BODICE. I had the bodice already traced so went straight for the fabric cutting. First step was to sew the darts on both bodice pieces. Then I needed to cut out the triangles. I measured the bottom of the front bodice piece on fold and side of the bodice front from bottom to bust height. That way I had measurements for two sides of a square. Then I cut out two squares of fabric and folded them diagonally to get two triangles.

I pinned the triangles to the front bodice and ‘tried it on’ to see if it lay flat or if there was some gaping or what not. What you want to check at this point is where the waist seam will be so you know how to position the triangles for them to meet in the middle, right where the skirt will be attached to the bodice. When I was happy with it I sewed the triangles to the front bodice within the seam allowance on the side and bottom of the bodice. The top of the triangles on the fold is left unsewn. You can stitch them down by machine or by hand with invisible stitch, but I did not want to have any visible stitching or do any hand sewing so left it like that. Hand sewing can easily be done when the dress is finished if you end up with any gaping, but I did not, so it is free and I can put my hands in if I want to rest them, for example. Then I attached front and back bodice pieces together. My dress has a side zip so I left one side open to insert the zip later.

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I opted for a V opening on the back of the bodice (not pictured), this was an easy alteration to do. I cut out the original back bodice and then measured how low I would like the opening to be. I did not want it to be too low so I could securely hide the bra. When I measured it in front of a mirror I simply cut out a triangle opening. I finished the neckline with a bias binding but you can also do it with a facing or a full lining for a cleaner finish, which is my go to option these days. The armholes are also finished with bias binding.

SKIRT. The next step was the skirt and I went for the drama effect and cut out a full circle skirt. When it was ready I attached the skirt to the bodice and inserted the zip. And then all that was left was endless seam finishing on the circle skirt.

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And voila, there is my gingham dress of dreams! It is not hard at all but gives a simple dress so much more character. If you go ahead and do it I would be happy to see your version, so please leave me a comment, send me a message or tag me on Instagram 😊

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And one bathroom selfie for the end because we are in 2018

 

P.S. – I love this photo of ladies in their gingham outfits waiting in line by Nina Leen for Life Magazine. You think I would fit among them with this dress? The caption of the photo is ‘Women wearing checked outfits, waiting to place bets at racetrack’. That kind of line is not where you would find me but if it were a line to buy cinema tickets that could work. Imagine a gingham movie premiere – now that is where I would love to be!

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Photo by Nina Leen for Life Magazine; source

 

Thank you for reading!

Ana

Me Made May 2018 – results are in / rezultati

Me Made May is over! It was a lot of fun! I do not know why I do not wear me made every day of the year. Well I am lying, I do know. I do not have jeans or some kind of trousers apart from my culottes. I need variety and do not have it yet in form of pants. That will be different by the time another Me Made May comes around, I am on it.

I have not taken a picture every day but have from most days. I was sick by the end of the month so have been travelling between bed and sofa all day and that is not something to take a picture of. But I have been good and made it through with my pledge. I wanted to wear at least one me made item per day during the whole month and a full me made outfit two days per week. It was not that hard as I do have a decent me made collection in my wardrobe by now which is excellent. I was struggling on some days and ended up repeating many items. I came to realise I do not mind that at all and I also repeat my rtw items as well. If I like something and it fits well, I will wear it a lot and on repeat. I think that only says a good thing about the garment I made.

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Završio je Me Made May! Bilo je zabavno! Ne znam zašto ne nosim svoje komade svaki dan u godini. Mislim lažem jer znam. Nemam traperice ili neke druge hlače osim zelenih kulotica. Treba mi raznolikost koju trenutno nemam u formi hlača. Ali to će biti drugačije do idućeg Me Made May-a, radim na tome.

Nisam slikala kombinacije svaki dan ali jesam većinu dana. Razbolila sam se krajem mjeseca pa sam se kretala između kreveta i kauča, a to nije za slikanje. Ali sam uspjela ispuniti svoje obećanje za ovaj mjesec. Ideja mi je bila nositi barem jedan svoj komad svaki dan u mjesecu plus kompletnu svoju kombinaciju dva dana u tjednu. Nije bilo jako teško jer do sada već imam pristojno popunjen ormar svojim komadima što je odlično. Mučila sam se pojedine dane ujutro odabrati što obući i na kraju sam ponavljala dosta stvari kroz mjesec. Ali sam ubrzo shvatila da mi to ne smeta i da istu stvar radim i sa kupovnim stvarima. Ako mi se nešto sviđa i dobro mi stoji onda ću to redovno nositi. Mislim da to samo govori dobro o odjeći koju napravim.

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So here is my Me Made May with documented garments
(all description is in clockwise order)

Evo tu redom moj Me Made May u odjevnim kombinacijama
(svi opisi slika su u smjeru sata)

1 – Sew Over It Ultimate shift top
2 – Burda Style cardigan and Megan Nielsen Flint pants
3 – Tilly and the Buttons Agnes top
4 – Sew Over It Molly dress
5 – Megan Nielsen Flint pants and DIY top
6 – half circle skirt / polukružni šos

 


1 – Sew Over It Ultimate shift top and Megan Nielsen Flint pants
2 – DIY kimono
3 – hacked Burda Style dress
4 – Sew Over It Ultimate shift top
5 – Tilly and the Buttons Agnes top, Burda Style cardigan and Megan Nielsen Flint pants
6 – Burda Style sweater

 

1 – Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dungaree dress
2 – Sew Over It Ultimate trousers
3 – Sew Over It Alex shirt and Erin skirt
4 – Sew Over It Alex shirt
5 – Sew Over It Alex shirt and Megan Nielsen Flint pants

 

1 – Burda Style shirt
2 – Sew Over It Ultimate shift top and Megan Nielsen Flint pants
3 – Sew Over It Ultimate shift top and DIY gathered skirt

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I made two new shirts this month just in time for long sleeved weather in the second half of the month. It is the Alex shirt by Sew Over It and I love it. I was a not feeling it at first but now I want to live in it every day, it is so comfortable and great for casual outfits.
I love my favourites (or do I have to say I hate picking favourites but if I have to…) and they are green Flint culottes, blue flower Ultimate shift top, Burda Style waterfall cardigan and Alex shirt times three (don’t make me pick favourites from them). I wear these all the time and will in the future.

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Napravila sam dvije nove Alex košulje ovaj mjesec taman na vrijem da uhvatim val nižih temperatura u drugoj polovici mjeseca. Nisam u početku bila oduševljena ovim krojem ali sada ga obožavam. Želim nositi te košulje najrađe svaki dan.
Volim favorite (ili trebam reći da ne volim birati favorite ali ako baš pitate…..) i to su zelene Flint hlače, plava Ultimate shift majica, Burda Style vesta i Alex košulja puta tri (nemojte me tjerati među njima birati najdražu). Ove komade redovno nosim i tako ću i ubuduće.

 

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Extra photo of the Burda Style waterfall cardigan / dodatna fotka Burda Style veste

 

I realised I miss certain garments and they are definitely jeans or denim pants in general. I plan to make some of these by the time 2018 comes to an end. On top of my make list the Lander pants that I already am overdue in making. I love that pattern and I hope it will love me when it comes to fitting. Next will be proper jeans, but as summer is here I will not be needing them right now.
I also need short sleeved jersey tops. I have only rtw ones, which is not the end of the world, but I would like to have few with ruffles or bell sleeved and that I can make. I am just currently not in jersey making mode but when I will be these will be flying out of my sewing room.
And more and more shirts. I am on a real skirt making kick at the moment and I want to make the most out of it. Because if you are inn the mood for making that many button holes, you know it is a now or never kind of moment.

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Shvatila sam da mi fale neki komadi i to su definitivno traperice ili nekakve traper hlače. Planiram napraviti nešto od toga do kraja ove godine. Na vrhu liste su mi Lander hlače koje već toliko dugo želim napraviti da je već smiješno što nisam. Jako mi se sviđa taj kroj i nadam se da će biti dobar prema meni kad će doći vrijeme za probu. Iduće na listi su klasične traperice, ali obzirom da mi neće trebati preko ljeta ne žurim se s tim.
Trebam i nekoliko džersej majica kratkih rukava. Imamo samo kupovne majice, što nije smak svijeta, ali par komada sa širim rukavima i volanima sigurno mogu napraviti. Trenutno jedino nisam u dž
ersej modu pa je to na čekanju, ali kada budem letit će van kao na traci.
I opet, košulje i košulje. Trenutno sam sva u izradi košulja i želim to iskoristiti. Jer nije često da mi se da izrađivati toliko rupa za gumbe, tako da je to sad ili nikad trenutak.

 

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Until next Me Made May!
Thank you for reading!

Do idućeg Me Made May-a!
Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Me Made May 2018

It is May soon and some of you might know what that means. It’s Me Made May time!

Uskoro će Svibanj što u svijetu online šivanja znači Me Made May (ručno izrađeni Svibanj) – isprike na groznom prijevodu.

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I do not remember when I first found out about it but last year was the first time I took part in it. I was more serious with my sewing by then and had enough to actually wear during the month of May. The idea is to set yourself a personal challenge to wear more of your me-mades during the month of May. The idea is to take out those pieces that do not get a lot of wear (or any) and use this moth to get to know your own wardrobe better and see what you do not wear as much and what you are missing. I love this idea and the amount of inspiration I get from all the sewist in the community! It also feeds my need for making my wardrobe more practical and capsule wardrobe friendly, so count me in.

 

Ne znam kad sam točno prvi put čula za ovaj izazov, ali prošle godine sam prvi put sudjelovala. Do tada sam već bila dosta ozbiljnija sa šivanjem i imala sam dosta komada koje sam mogla nositi kroz svibanj. Ideja izazova je da svatko kreira osobni izazov u kojemu će kroz svibanj nositi više svojih komada koje je sam izradio. Poanta je izvaditi one komade koje ste napravili ali uglavnom čame na dnu ormara i iskoristiti ovaj mjesec za upoznavanje vlastite garderobe. Vidite što ne nosite, a što vam fali u ormaru. Super mi je takav izazov i količina inspiracije koju dobijem od svih koji sudjeluju u njemu. To se također uklapa u moju želju da svoju garderobu napravim praktičnijom i skladnijom, tako da sam za!.

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I believe many of you already know about it, but if not, head on over to So Zo blog and read all about it from the first hand.

I pledged this year to wear one me-made piece every day and at least three full me-made outfits during the month on May. I wear something me-made often these days so it does not sound that challenging, but that is 31 days we are talking about. Also, I think with full me-made outfits I will have to rock more dresses which I do not really do outside the summer season, so it will be pushing me to adjust to bear legs soon!

 

Ako vas zanima više o ovom izazovu slobodno posjetite So Zo blog za više detalja iz prve ruke.

Ove godine sam se izazvala da svaki dan kroz svibanj nosim barem jedan komad odjeće koji sam sama sašila, a barem tri puta tjedno cijelu kombinaciju (haljina ili kombinacija hlača i majice). Ovih dana većinom nosim barem jednu stvar koju sam sama sašila, ali tu ipak pričamo o kontinuitetu od 31 dana. Isto ću morati uvesti haljine u igru koje obično nosim samo u ljetoj sezoni, pa će me to pogurati da ranije uđem u sezonu golih nogu.

Some of me made items I will be wearing during the challenge / neki komadi koje ću nositi za vrijeme izazova

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What I did not write in the pledge but do plan to focus on is using my stash for makes I know I will wear on a daily basis and that will fill my wardrobe in the right places. I am talking about shirts, shirt dresses and jersey short sleeved tops. Trousers as well but I don’t think it is realistic I will get there in May considering my sewjo levels at the moment, so I plan to keep it simple.

I am daydreaming of Alex shirts and Alder shirtdresses in all the lovely viscose fabrics I have in my stash. I have some fabrics I bought specially for them so it is about time I start working on them.

Ono što nisam stavila u izazov, ali čemu se planiram također posvetiti je koristiti vlastitu kolekciju tkanina (da, kolekciju😊) za stvari koje ću redovno nositi i koji će popunit moju garderobu na pravim mjestima. Tu mislim na košulje, lagane haljine i džersej majice kratkih rukava. Hlače također, ali mislim da nije realno to očekivati za svibanj obzirom na trenutno stanje moje motivacije za šivanje. Zato polako i jednostavno, pa ćemo vidjeti.

Trenutno sanjarim o Alex košuljama i Alder haljinama u svim lijepim viskozama koje imam u svojoj kolekciji. Neke tkanine sam kupila posebno za te krojeve pa se nadam da ću uskoro i početi raditi na njima.

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Fabrics I bought in Vietnam last month / tkanine koje sam kupila u Vijetnamu prošli mjesec

 

I will report back at the end of the month about how it went, if I made it work or failed miserably (hopefully not). I am looking forward to it and am ready to get all the inspiration in so my sewjo can start brewing!

Na kraju mjeseca ću pisati o tome kako je izazov prošao i jesam li uspjela ili podbacila (nadam se da će biti ovo prvo). Veselim se početku svibnja i svoj inspiraciji tako da mi motivacija za šivanje može prijeći u veću brzinu!

 

Thanks for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Vietnam handmade holiday wardrobe – PART 2 / Ručno izrađena garderoba za putovanja – DIO 2

In my last blog post I talked all about the me made tops I brought on the trip with me to Vietnam. Now let’s take a look at the bottoms.

From me mades I brought one skirt and one pair of shorts.

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U zadnjem blog postu sam pričala sve o majicama koje sam napravila i nosila na put u Vijetnam. Sada ću ispričati sve o šosu i hlačama.

Od vlastitih uradaka nosila sam jedan šos i jedne kratke hlače.

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me made skirt with top from the last post / šos u kombinaciji s majicom iz prethodnog posta

I made the skirt last year and it is a great travel piece. Easy to pack and does not wrinkle. Well, not a lot. The easiest skirt there is – gathered with elastic. And that green colour! It is so simple that there is really not much else to write about it. If you would be interested in a short tutorial on how to do this skirt just leave a comment bellow or send me a message.

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Šos sam napravila prošle godine i pokazao se kao odličan komad za putovanja. Jednostavno ga je spakirati i ne gužva se. Mislim, ne jako. Najjednostavniji šos za napraviti – skupljen s elastikom. Toliko je jednostavan da se nema što više od ovoga napisati o njemu. Ako ste zainteresirani za mali tutorial kako napraviti ovakav šos samo ostavite dolje komentar ili pošaljite poruku.

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The shorts are made from Flint pattern by Megan Nielsen. If you follow me here or on Instagram you probably already know about my love for this pattern. It was love at first sight and I can not get enough of it. I already have few fabrics ready to make more shorts before summer comes. Easy, fast and there is no zip! But there is a bow! The bow is optional but for me is more like mandatory as I just can not make a pair without it. I used fabric I got from a friend (it belonged to her grandma). It is a pale green linen and I had maybe a bit over a metre. I like the fact that you can get shorts from such small fabric piece. I see my stash getting smaller already!
And I used one of the me made ceramic buttons made in pottery class I did with my sister last year. That is always a plus in my book!

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Kratke hlače sam izradila iz Flint kroja od Megan Nielsen. Ako pratite moj blog ili Instagram već ste mogli čuti o mojoj ljubavi prema ovom kroju. Bila je to ljubav na prvi pogled i ne mogu prestati šivati ga. Već imam par tkanina pripremljeno za nove hlače koje ću napraviti prije ljeta. Brzo, jednostavno i bez ciferšlusa! I sa mašnom! Mašna je samo opcija, ali za mene je obavezna jer ne mogu izraditi hlače bez nje. Tkaninu sam dobila od prijateljice (pripadala je njenoj baki). To je blijedo zeleni lan i imala sam možda malo više od metra. Sviđa mi se da se iz tako malo tkanine mogu dobiti kratke hlače. Već vidim kako mi se zalihe tkanine smanjuju!
Iskoristila sam i jedan keramički gumb koji sam sama izradila na tečaju keramike na koji sam išla sa sestrom prošle godine. To je uvijek dodatan plus!

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Flint in another 100% me made holiday outfit / Flint u još jednoj u potpunosti ručno izrađenoj kombinaciji

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me made clay button on a me made shorts paired with a me made top / keramički gumb na lanenim hlačama u kombinaciji s pamučnom majicom – sve sa sama izradila

 

I made another pair of Flints in a lightweight viscose. They were meant to be in the suitcase but they wrinkled like crazy and I just decided it would be too much to take them to only wear them once or twice. So they stayed ironed in my closet and are waiting for Croatian summer to happen so that is when I will blog about them as well, stay tuned!

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Napravila sam i drugi par Flint hlača u laganoj viskoznoj tkanini. Ideja je bila da ću i njih ponijeti na put u Vijetnam, ali ipak nisam. Gužvale su se kao lude i shvatila sam da nema smisla nositi ih takve da bi ih tamo eventualno obukla dva puta. Pa su lijepo ispeglane ostale u ormaru gdje čekaju ljeto. Tada ću i pisati o njima, pa svratite pogledati!

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little sneak peak of the viscose flints on the left / mali teaser za viskozne flint hlače na slici lijevo

 

I normally get really itchy to make and craft before going on a holiday and this time I took advantage of it and made garments I will be wearing soon when summer comes to this part of the world.

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Obično me uhvati kreativa prije godišnjeg i ovaj put sam to iskoristila i napravila odjeću koju ću uskoro nositi kada ljeto dođe u ove krajeve.

 

 

A big thank you to my sister who I travelled with for being patient behind the camera :*

Puno hvala mojoj sestri s kojom sam putovala na strpljenju iza kamere :*

 

Thanks for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

 

Ana

TNT patterns for the win / Pobjeda TNT krojeva

Do you have tried and true patterns (TNT)? When I started sewing I did not have them and I could not imagine making one pattern more than once. There is so many of them and I only had my Burdas at that time and had no idea of the Indie scene out there. So many patterns, so many fabrics and so little time. And to waist it on the same pattern twice, madness.
But with time I saw my wishes, sewing practice and planning of my makes change. And for the better. Now I make a pattern more than once. 4 or 5 times in fact with some of them. I now see the beauty in finding a pattern that fits great and then playing with it to make hacks or simply use a different fabric to get a completely different garment. Fabric is a powerful tool, don’t you think?

 

Imate li vi isprobane krojeve za koje znate da su vam dobri (eng. tried and true – TNT). Kada sam počela šivati nisam imala takve krojeve i nisam niti mogla zamisliti sašiti isti kroj više puta. Ima toliko puno krojeva, a u početku sam znala samo za krojeve u Burda časopisu (za Indie nisam imala pojma). Toliko puno krojeva, toliko puno materijala, a tako malo vremena. I potratiti to vrijeme na isti kroj više puta, čista ludost.
Ali s vremenom sam primijetila da su se želje, moja praksa šivanja i planiranje uradaka promijenili. Na bolje. Sada pojedine krojeve izradim više puta. Neke čak 4 ili 5 puta. Shvatila sam ljepotu u pronalasku kroja koji vam dobro stoji i s kojim se možete igrati i mijenjati ga da bi dobili slične, ali različite odjevne predmete. Samo upotrebom drugačije tkanine možete dobiti u potpunosti različiti komad odjeće. Tkanina je moćno oružje, slažete se?

 

 

 

And it was only recently that I started making one pattern in more versions. I believe the first pattern I made for the second time was the Flint pattern by Megan Nielsen blogged here. I loved it so much and I could see it in all different fabrics and colours. So I made two versions and now I am in process of batch sewing two new pairs (one of which will be shorts, how exciting!).

 

Relativno nedavno sam počela koristiti isti kroj više puta. Mislim da je prvi takav kroj bio Flint kroj za hlače od Megan Nielsen o kojem sam već pisala ovdje. Bio mi je super i mogla sam ga vidjeti u svim tkaninama i bojama. Do sada sam napravila dvije verzije, a trenutno sam u fazi izrade dva nova para (od kojih će jedne biti krate hlače za ljeto, kako uzbudljivo!).

 

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Flint dance / Flint ples

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Another TNT pattern is the Ultimate Shift dress by Sew Over It. I have not made the dress version yet but I made 5 tops. One long sleeved for winter and 4 sleeveless for summer. I love how simple they are but so essential for my wardrobe. The crisp and straight lines make it a blank page for your fabrics to do all the work. And I have about 4 dress ideas and hacks I want to try so this one could easy become my most made pattern over time.

 

Drugi TNT kroj je Ultimate shift kroj za haljinu od Sew Over It. Nisam izradila još niti jednu haljinu ali sam napravila 5 majica. Jednu s dugim rukavima za zimu i 4 bez rukava za ljeto. Sviđa mi se jednostavnost kroja koji je ujedno toliko značajan u mojoj garderobi. Jasne ravne linije od kroja čine prazan list papira koji lako pofarbate tkaninom i nju prepustite da ona odradi sav ‘posao’. Za izradu haljina imam barem 4 ideje kako ju doraditi i učiniti drugačijom pa vjerujem da će mi uskoro ovo lako ostati najkorišteniji kroj.

 

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Ultimate top for ultimate comfort / Ultimativna majica za ultimativni komfor

 

Sewing with knits was a big discovery for me. Most of the patterns I have for knits become TNT patterns because they are the staples in my wardrobe. The first knit patterns is used were Paola turtleneck by Named Patterns (blogged here), Agnes top by Tilly and the Buttons and Molly top by Sew Over It. All three patterns are easy and fast to make and they are now occupying one whole shelve in my closet. I have 3 Paolas, 3 Molly tops and 1 Moll dress, 4 Agnes tops and 1 Agnes dress. And these are some of my makes I wear the most because they are comfortable and are a great base you can easily dress up with other separates.

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Šivanje s rastezljivim tkaninama je za mene bilo veliko otkriće. Većina krojeva koje imam su postali TNT krojevi jer su ti komadi baza moje garderobe. Prvi krojevi s kojima sam radila bili su Paola dolčevita od Named Patterns (više o tome možete pročitati ovdje), Agnes majica od Tilly and the Buttons i Molly majica od Sew Over It. Sva tri kroja su jednostavna i brza za izradu i sada zauzimaju čitavu policu u mojem ormaru. Trenutno imam 3 Paole, 3 Molly majice i 1 Molly haljinu, 4 Agnes majice i 1 Agnes haljinu. To su ujedno i komadi koje najčešće nosim jer su ugodni i jako ih je lako kombinirati s ostalim komadima iz garderobe.

 

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Paolas – pattern by Named Clothing / kroj od Named Clothing
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Mollys – pattern by Sew Over It / kroj od Sew Over It
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Agneses – pattern by Tilly and the Buttons / kroj od Tilly and the Buttons

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Another knit garment I made is the Burda style sweatshirt from the January issue from 2017. I started sewing with Burda but gave up on it when I discovered Indie patterns companies. I find it hard to nail the fit with their patterns and was frustrated with their lack of instructions (and do not get me started on the fact that the Burda we get in Croatia is in German!). Indie pattern companies hold your hand through the whole process and therefore, in general, are easier to fit. So I stuck with them for a while but now that I know more and am more confident in my sewing skills I am slowly easing my self in Burda empire once again. I decided to start with a sweatshirt pattern as this seams the easiest considering it is not fitted and is a fast make. I had to work on it but I got there and I now have two sweatshirts I am really happy with so I am confident this will be one of the top TNT patterns in the future.

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Dodatan kroj za džersej tkanine je iz Burda časopisa iz siječnja 2017 godine. U početku sam šivala samo po Burdinim krojevima ali sam na neko vrijeme ruke od njih kada sam otkrila Indie firme. Imam problema prilagoditi Burdine krojeve i naći dobru veličinu i njihove šture upute za sastavljanje kroja su me dovodile do ludila (da ne spominjem kako su naše Burde na njemačkom jeziku). Indie firme vas drže a ruku kroz cijeli proces i zbog toga je sve nekako lakše. Tako da sam se držala Indie krojeva neko vrijeme, ali sada kada znam puno više i imam više sigurnosti u svoje znanje polako se vraćam Burdinom kraljevstvu krojeva. Odlučila sam početi s nečim laganim i učinilo mi se da bi kroj za opuštenu vestu bio idealan. Trebala sam malo raditi na veličini ali došla sam do kraja i sada imam dvije veste s kojima sam jako zadovoljna. Sigurna sam da će s vremenom ovaj kroj biti pri vrhu TNT krojeva na mojoj listi.

 

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Burda sweatshirt / Burda vesta

 

There are a lot of other patterns I already made and plan to make again because I like the fit and design so with time there will be an ever growing list of TNT patterns. But I think this is a good thing and it sets you on a path of no fail. There is nothing to not love about that.
Do you have any TNT patterns? I would love to know and maybe get more of them on my list of happy makes.

 

Ima još jako puno krojeva koje sam već izradila i planiram ih izraditi opet jer mi dobro pristaju i sviđa mi se dizajn. Tako da će s vremenom biti više krojeva na ovoj listi koja će, sigurna sam, biti sve duža i duža. Ali mislim da je to dobro jer vas vodi na put bez neuspjeha. Nema ništa što mi se kod toga ne može svidjeti.
Imate li vi svoje TNT krojeve? Voljela bi čuti i možda dodati neki na svoju istu sretnih uradaka.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

#1 City Capsule Wardrobe: The Erin skirt

A while ago I decided to toy a bit with the capsule wardrobe idea. I like the thought of having garments that go well together and that dressing in the morning is a delight and not a 20 minute wasted time frame of hair pooling and nail biting (ok it is not that bad, but pointless staring at shelves and hangers certainly is). Also, it is about making what you will be wearing in the end which in my case meant more separates, basics and pants instead of dresses, dresses and dresses. I like me a dress, but I just do not wear them that often, especially not in autumn/winter. Therefore adjusting my sewing to this just makes more sense.

As per Wikipedia: „Capsule wardrobe is a term coined by Susie Faux, the owner of  London boutique called “Wardrobe” in the 1970s. According to Faux, a capsule wardrobe is a collection of a few essential items of clothing that don’t go out of fashion, such as skirts, trousers, and coats, which can then be augmented with seasonal pieces.”

As per Susie Faux: „For more than 30 years since I developed the concept of the capsule wardrobe, it has been at the heart of Wardrobe’s approach to helping women develop their own confident style as they progress through their careers. It has also, I’m flattered to say, been copied countless times in many different contexts.”

Yes it was. Good ideas always are.

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Some ideas of a capsule wardrobe say it is good to have 30 piece wardrobe to make it easier to choose and combine, but that part of the whole concept did not rub of on me. Nobody’s perfect.

 

My first foray into a capsule wardrobe concept was to try all the patterns from the Sew Over It Capsule Wardrobe City Break E-book. Well, you know, the word capsule is IN THE BOOK TITLE. When I first came across this book I liked one pattern and all others did not really impress me, so I skipped it. But then I was constantly seeing great garments popping up in my Instagram feed only to see that they were made from patterns in this e-book. Eventually I liked all of them, so when they were having a sale I got myself a copy.

 

I came up with a personal challenge to make one pattern each month and have a small capsule in 5 months time. It sounded reasonable and I am sure it is. I stuck to the plan for the first three months and made three garments, but then Christmas break happened. During the break I sewed a coat and need some rest afterwards and lost the track of time. But will resume at some point and make the remaining two patterns.

 

The first one I will talk about is the Erin skirt. I can not decide which pattern I like the best, but this one is definitely one of the first that got me to buy the e-book. It was the light denim version that got to me. So I made one for myself.

 

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Spring? Where are you? I am ready!

 

I wanted to use wooden buttons because I thought that was the best combination. But as you know I had some clay buttons I made myself in pottery class and this was a perfect opportunity to use some of them. More so, as I couldn’t find the right size wooden ones for the life of me. I am happy in the end that I went with mine because I now have a FULLY me made garment. I do not know why I was resistant about it in the first place.

 

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It has pockets!

 

Now let’s talk a bit about the pattern. The instructions in the e-book are clear and I would categorise this as an easy make aside from the buttonholes. But if your machine has an automatic buttonhole option be brave, Youtube it, practice on some scraps and go for it. I made a mistake and made the buttonholes horizontally and not vertically. This makes them poke out a bit outside of the button placket while moving or when I am holding my hands in the pockets. It does bother me a bit, but I can handle it. Will make sure to do it right next time. If you look at the instructions it says to do the top waist button horizontally but all others vertically. It makes sense, but requires you to follow instructions which I obviously did not do as carefully as I thought.

 

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I had to take the side seams in at the hips. The fabric was sticking out too much but it was an easy fix to make. Overall the fit was great. I shortened the skirt a bit from the longer version so it covers my knees. It is more me that way.

The fabric is a light blue denim fabric. I would say it is medium to heavy weight and a bit stiff with no stretch. It is comfortable and was a good match for this pattern. It was passed down to me from my grandmother so I have no idea how old it is. A lot I would say (the things it has seen!). So I made sure to wash it and use it for something good.

 

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Buttons were a delight to make and sew on. I had to hand sew them. They are made from the same template but each is a bit different and has different hole sizes and hole placement so I could not use my machine to automatically stitch them on. Telly watching and hand sewing it was.

 

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I love the skirt and I cannot wait for some spring weather to wear it out.

 

Thank you for reading!

Ana

 

 

 

 

 

Sew Over It Chloe coat – my very first coat!

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I ended 2017 by cutting out the Chloe coat pattern by Sew Over It. By this point I am sewing for 6ish years but I never made an outer garment before. I always thought I couldn’t get there by just trying, but I would need to first get a certain skill, attend a class or get a hold of a magic wand. But with time and with following other fellow sewists online I discovered you don’t need any of that, but you do need some experience and do what we all do best – try.

Entering 2018 I had my coat cut out, partially assembled, iron on stand by and one week into the new year I finished my first coat.

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Me being awkward in front of the camera in my Chole coat

This pattern comes as part of the online class Intro to Sewing Coats: Chloe Coat. I wanted to make a coat for some time now but always struggled with the idea of doing it on my own with all the head scratching as part of the package. I also could not make it to local classes so online was the only way to go. And I love it! I bought the class, sat on it for few months (because that is what I do best) and at the end of December got around to it. It was time.

I like the ease of an online class because you can ‘attend’ it when ever you want and you can be in your pajamas if you like. So I first went through all classes in one go and then started doing it step by step replaying each video if necessary.

The fabric I used is some sort of wool blend I had in my stash for years, so do not really know the content. I am sure it has some percentage of poly in it, but since it did press well I still think it was not too much. All in all, perfect for a first coat project. The lining was a similar colored one since I thought that was about right for the first try and it was very affordable to get it from a local store (but as I do not have a picture of it you will just have to believe me).

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A bad hair day and good coat day go so well together, don’t you think?

The online class was very helpful and Lisa takes you through all the stages. There are few camera angles for you to get the best look at what she is doing in each video. I read some reviews of the class before making the coat and some mentioned they could not see some of the steps Lisa was doing as her hands got in the way. There is some of that, but I did not have a problem with it and I clearly understood what I need to do. That might be one negative about the online class, but I did not have a problem with it so cannot really say it bothered me.

The assembly of a coat is straightforward and manageable for all sewists with some experience. It is meant to be a class and a pattern for first time coat sewers and if you made few things before you will be fine with making this coat. The tricky part came when I needed to some final stitches since I had a big wool coat at that point and it took some time getting the seam under the needle with the space a sewing machine can offer.

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Sewing traffic jam

I used Ice wool for the shoulders, bagged out the lining and these were a first timers for me (I do not know if that is a word but I think it fits so well). Getting your heard around bagging out the lining is a process but you do get to the end and with few extra finishing touches you have a coat! And that is exactly why I wanted to do the class because I tend to be impatient when I need to do things all on my own and having someone to hold your hand takes some of the stress away.

The coat has two options for closure – zip and poppers. At first I decided to go with press studs but when I got to having a coat but still having to do all the hand sewing I changed my mind (and how great is that for us sewists!). I decided to leave any closures out and use just the brown leather belt I already had. I will go with the zip next time, but for now I am really enjoying it this way. And if I ever change my mind I can always add the press studs later.

I am maybe done with coat making for this season, but you never know what February can bring. I do have some hacks in mind for this pattern though so when the time comes for a second coat I have all the hack ideas and fabrics ready and steady to go.

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Crispness of a back center seam

 

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Side view without the belt

 

Did you make a coat yet and if yes, what was your first pattern to use?

Thanks for stopping by,

Ana