#2 City Capsule Wardrobe: The Alex shirt

The second pattern up for review from the Sew Over It’s City Break Capsule Wardrobe E-book is the Alex shirt. This pattern comes in both shirt and dress length. Both are great for dreamy flowy fabrics and make existing whole in my wardrobe significantly smaller.

 

Drugi kroj na redu za recenziju iz City Break Capsule Wardrobe E-book od Sew Over It je Alex košulja. Kroj dolazi u dvije verzije – košulja ili košulja-haljina. Obje verzije su odlične za lepršave, lagane tkanine i obje odlično nadopunjuju moju garderobu.

20180508_151737

 

This pattern is great for the first shirt because it does not have a collar stand. You attach the collar directly to the body of the shirt so the construction is easier and faster, but you still get to have a taste of the collar construction. Another thing I loved making is the back yoke construction. I needed some head scratching because I just could not get my head around it at first as I never sewed one before. Some trial and error (read unpicking seams) and I got it right. It felt like I won an argument 😊 Always so good! It was an argument with myself (not the pattern) but it still counts.

 

Ako se po prvi put upuštate u šivanje košulje kao i ja, ovaj kroj je odličan jer ima samo kragnu (gornji preklopni dio) bez ovratnika (donji uspravni dio). Zbog toga je puno jednostavniji i brži za šivanje, a na kraju opet dobijete djelomično iskustvo izrade kragne. Druga stvar koja mi se svidjela kod izrade košulje je sastavljanje ramenice (ramenog dijela košulje na stražnjoj strani). Trebalo je par pokušaja da pogodim pravilno sastavljanje pošto sam i to šivala prvi put, ali nakon par pokušaja i pogrešaka (i korištenja paralice) sam uspjela. Kao da sam pobijedila u raspravi. Sama sa sobom, a ne s krojem. Ali bitno da sam pobijedila 😊

 

20180508_152144
collar from the front / kragna bez ovratnika
20180508_151716
back yoke detail / detalj ramenice

 

It was also my first time sewing patch pockets. I am happy with how they came out. One looks better than the other but I do not think anyone would ever notice but me. Patch pockets are so easy and make a shirt that more interesting in my opinion. I am glad I have that one under my belt and I already used it on many other projects (like on my coat which I blogged about here).

 

Također sam prvi puta šivala našivene džepove i zadovoljna sam kako su ispali. Jedan izgleda puno bolje od drugog, ali mislim da to ionako nitko neće vidjeti osim mene. Našiveni džepovi su toliko lagani, a baš dobro izgledaju na košuljama. Tako da mi je drago da sad imam i to iskustvo i već sam ih šivala i na nekoliko komada nakon ove košulje (recimo na kaputu o kojem sam već pisala ovdje).

 

Untitled 2

 

The pattern has a button placket for closure in the front. I was in a bit of a rush (and just plane lazy) so I went for the ultimate lazy shortcut to date: fake button placket. I made the button placket as regular but hand sewed the buttons through both sides of the placket in place. There are no buttonholes (see what I meant with lazy shortcut?). The shirt does not open but as it is not supposed to be buttoned up all the way to the collar there is plenty of room to get it over my head. It looks a bit silly when I try to get it on without making any creases in the fabric, but nobody sees me getting dressed anyway so…..

 

Kroj ima lajsnu s gumbima i rupicama za gumbe za zakopčavanje. Pošto sam bila u žurbi (ili jednostavno lijena) odlučila sam se a ultimativni lijeni prečac: lažna lajsna za kopčanje. Napravila sam ju regularno kako se radi klasična, smo što nisam gumbe našila na jednu stranu lajsne, već sam ih prošila kroz obje lajsne, a rupice za gumbe uopće nisam radila (vidite što sam mislila pod lijenim prečacem?). Košulja se onda ne otkopčava ali je dovoljno otvorena da ju mogu prevući preko glave. Malo je smiješno kad ju oblačim bez da ju zgužvam, ali to ionako nitko ne vidi.

 

20180508_151642

 

The only thing I do not particularly like is the slightly dropped shoulder and the over-sized look. When I looked at samples and all other Alexes out there I did like it, but not on me as it turns out. Maybe it is the fabric I used, but I feel a bit lost in there. Maybe even granny due to the fabric pattern, but then again, it is never bad to show a bit of granny glam once in a while. I mostly wore it under a cardigan in winter but now I wear it tucked into jeans and that looks way better. I think that I will take it in for future ones I make. I toyed with it a bit and I would not take it in the sides but would take about 2-3 centimeters form the center of the front and back bodice pieces. This takes the shoulders in but still gives it a relaxed look. I will report back if that was a good idea.

 

Jedino što mi se ne sviđa je spušteni rukav tj. spušteni šav rukava i prevelik izgled košulje. Dok sam gledala uzorke kroja i ostale već izrađene Alexe to mi nije smetalo, ali mi smeta na meni. Možda je zbog tkanine koju sam koristila, ali nekako si izgledam izgubljeno kao u prevelikoj košulji. Zimi sam ju nosila ispod dugih rukava, ali sam ju sada na proljeće počela nositi utaknutu u hlače i to mi se sviđa. Za ubuduće ću ju probati suziti, ali ne na bočnom šavu, već ću maknuti 2-3 centimetra iz sredine prednjeg i stražnjeg bloka. Tako pomaknem šav rukava i ramena prema unutra, a da i dalje imam opušteni izgled košulje. Ako eksperiment uspije podijelit ću ga na blogu.

 

Untitled 3

 

I see many more Alexes hanging in my closet and I already have some fabrics lined up for sewing. I hope I will whip them up sometime soon.

 

Vidim još puno Alexa u svom ormaru  i već imam nekoliko tkanina koje čekaju svoj red za šivanje. Nadam se da ću ih stići sašiti nekad uskoro.

 

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

#1 City Capsule Wardrobe: The Erin skirt

A while ago I decided to toy a bit with the capsule wardrobe idea. I like the thought of having garments that go well together and that dressing in the morning is a delight and not a 20 minute wasted time frame of hair pooling and nail biting (ok it is not that bad, but pointless staring at shelves and hangers certainly is). Also, it is about making what you will be wearing in the end which in my case meant more separates, basics and pants instead of dresses, dresses and dresses. I like me a dress, but I just do not wear them that often, especially not in autumn/winter. Therefore adjusting my sewing to this just makes more sense.

As per Wikipedia: „Capsule wardrobe is a term coined by Susie Faux, the owner of  London boutique called “Wardrobe” in the 1970s. According to Faux, a capsule wardrobe is a collection of a few essential items of clothing that don’t go out of fashion, such as skirts, trousers, and coats, which can then be augmented with seasonal pieces.”

As per Susie Faux: „For more than 30 years since I developed the concept of the capsule wardrobe, it has been at the heart of Wardrobe’s approach to helping women develop their own confident style as they progress through their careers. It has also, I’m flattered to say, been copied countless times in many different contexts.”

Yes it was. Good ideas always are.

dav

 

Some ideas of a capsule wardrobe say it is good to have 30 piece wardrobe to make it easier to choose and combine, but that part of the whole concept did not rub of on me. Nobody’s perfect.

 

My first foray into a capsule wardrobe concept was to try all the patterns from the Sew Over It Capsule Wardrobe City Break E-book. Well, you know, the word capsule is IN THE BOOK TITLE. When I first came across this book I liked one pattern and all others did not really impress me, so I skipped it. But then I was constantly seeing great garments popping up in my Instagram feed only to see that they were made from patterns in this e-book. Eventually I liked all of them, so when they were having a sale I got myself a copy.

 

I came up with a personal challenge to make one pattern each month and have a small capsule in 5 months time. It sounded reasonable and I am sure it is. I stuck to the plan for the first three months and made three garments, but then Christmas break happened. During the break I sewed a coat and need some rest afterwards and lost the track of time. But will resume at some point and make the remaining two patterns.

 

The first one I will talk about is the Erin skirt. I can not decide which pattern I like the best, but this one is definitely one of the first that got me to buy the e-book. It was the light denim version that got to me. So I made one for myself.

 

dav
Spring? Where are you? I am ready!

 

I wanted to use wooden buttons because I thought that was the best combination. But as you know I had some clay buttons I made myself in pottery class and this was a perfect opportunity to use some of them. More so, as I couldn’t find the right size wooden ones for the life of me. I am happy in the end that I went with mine because I now have a FULLY me made garment. I do not know why I was resistant about it in the first place.

 

dav
It has pockets!

 

Now let’s talk a bit about the pattern. The instructions in the e-book are clear and I would categorise this as an easy make aside from the buttonholes. But if your machine has an automatic buttonhole option be brave, Youtube it, practice on some scraps and go for it. I made a mistake and made the buttonholes horizontally and not vertically. This makes them poke out a bit outside of the button placket while moving or when I am holding my hands in the pockets. It does bother me a bit, but I can handle it. Will make sure to do it right next time. If you look at the instructions it says to do the top waist button horizontally but all others vertically. It makes sense, but requires you to follow instructions which I obviously did not do as carefully as I thought.

 

dav

I had to take the side seams in at the hips. The fabric was sticking out too much but it was an easy fix to make. Overall the fit was great. I shortened the skirt a bit from the longer version so it covers my knees. It is more me that way.

The fabric is a light blue denim fabric. I would say it is medium to heavy weight and a bit stiff with no stretch. It is comfortable and was a good match for this pattern. It was passed down to me from my grandmother so I have no idea how old it is. A lot I would say (the things it has seen!). So I made sure to wash it and use it for something good.

 

dav

Buttons were a delight to make and sew on. I had to hand sew them. They are made from the same template but each is a bit different and has different hole sizes and hole placement so I could not use my machine to automatically stitch them on. Telly watching and hand sewing it was.

 

img_20180303_132852.jpg

dav

dav

dav

I love the skirt and I cannot wait for some spring weather to wear it out.

 

Thank you for reading!

Ana