In The Folds meets Peppermint Magazine: the review of Wide Leg Pants and Ruffle Sleeve top patterns

I would like to start by saying that these two patterns are free. We all love free stuff, but when someone puts so much good work into it I am really grateful they are free and considering that they are both so well drafted. They are In the Folds patterns after all.

The patterns are available through the Peppermint Magazine. I knew they were free but always assumed you needed some subscription to the magazine to get the patterns for free. But no people, they are free for you to go over there and get them! Wowzers!

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So lets start with the pants. I have a feeling you want to read about them first.

They are high waisted wide-leg pants that are so in fashion right now. They have a zip fly, big front pockets and you can make them in all sorts of hem lengths. I made mine in brown 100% linen fabric from a local store bought recently. This maybe was one of the fastest transitions from 2D fabric to 3D garment in my sewing room – only about a week!

Based on the finished garment measurements I cut size B in the waist and sized up to C in hips and the fit is great.

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Me: Gala, camera is the other way; Gala: why are we standing here?

 

The pattern instructions did have mistakes and were confusing in some parts, but overall are clear and easy to follow. Some pattern pieces are connected wrong to the instructions. For example, when you have to insert the zip fly cover it uses the name of that pattern piece but the number in the bracket that points you to the pattern piece is of the zip fly which is a different pattern piece. I have to mention at this point that this was my first time sewing any sort of fly and yes, it was confusing, but reading it over few times and with help of the pictures within instructions (which are correct) I figured it out and made perfectly good looking fly. If you have a fly under your belt from any project before you should have no problem. Just give yourself the time to go through the instructions before sewing these steps. And remember you got the pattern for free.

The pattern has no mistakes and is drafted beautifully. The fit is great! I made the pattern as is without any modifications and chose my size based on the finished garment measurements.

 

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no Gala, we are pretending to walk this way!

 

These are the second pair of pants I ever made. First pair were the Megan Nielsen Flint pants which have a looser crotch fit, so I was worried these might need some more work. But they fit perfectly. Now I am on my third pants pattern and it is the Lander pants from True Bias. Just for reference for those who made the later, I will need to make adjustments there because the crotch curve is killing me (yeah, not comfortable and sitting is out of the question). So you can sort of imagine the crotch situation relation between the patterns. The crotch curve on the Wide-Leg Pants is bigger by about 1 centimetre on the front leg piece and by about 2 centimetres on the back leg piece for my size. So that makes a total of 3 centimetres which may not sound much but we all know what a difference that makes.

 

Front pockets are roomy and big enough to hold you phone and more. Perfect! They are not the comfiest to hold your arms in but I think that was not the idea behind the design anyway so I can not blame that on the pattern.

 

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The zip fly came easily together. I already mentioned the problematic instructions, but it is an easy straightforward process with many steps. If you follow them and make one by one you end up with a zip fly that works as it is supposed to. And boy am I proud of that one!

 

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The pants come with a curved waistband. I always wanted to try that but so far all patterns I used had straight waistbands. The curved one sits so much better with no gaping in the back or anywhere else. Maybe the straight waistband would also be fine as the pants are high waisted and they sit on my waist, but I like this better. I am happy I now have a curved waistband I can use on other pant patterns in the future and not having to draft my own. It is not hard, but it is so much easier when you do not have to. One thing to note is that there is mention of fusing the waistband at the beginning as part of the suggested cutting plans, but no mention of it in the later sewing steps. For me that means it is easy to skip it as I rarely go through cutting plans and I only later saw it was mentioned there. I did not put and interfacing in. I thought about adding it on my own and can not really say anything in my defence about why I did not, but hopefully it will not stretch out (considering it is not straight but curved). I wore it several times already in the first week of making it and it is fine. But for the next pair I would add it just to be on the safe side. Plus you definitely add to the longevity of the pants that way so I would recommend it (even to my old self).

 

There are no back pockets on the pattern and I like it that way. It would be easy to add them but I prefer the clean look without them.

 

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look at her playing along with me! 🙂

 

 

I did not play with the hem length and made it as per pattern. I think it goes great with sandals and is that ‘long-but-not-long’ length while still escaping far enough from the ‘do you have a flood at home’ length. I think shorts would look great as well so I might go and make myself a pair.

 

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Now lets talk about the Ruffle Sleeve Top. The pattern is so lovely and I have not came across any mistakes within instructions for this one. Also, the pattern comes with instructions for french seams! I love that! That is also one of the things I always wanted to try but never did (I should get better at doing things I want with my sewing). So, when it was part of instructions I thought it was the perfect opportunity to try it out. I love it and I can now say I will definitely use that method for any garments with flowy light fabrics that require that kind of treatment. There are even instructions to french seaming the armholes!

 

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I used a cotton fabric for this one so that kind of finish maybe is not the best as it did bulk a bit in places, but not too much. I am still happy I french seamed it all instead of zig zaging my brains out. Well, I guess I was tired by the end and forgot to french seam between the arm and ruffle, but maybe better because of the bulk issue. All hems were turned two times by about 1 cm and sewed with straight stitch.

The fit is great in the shoulders and bust area and then it flares out which is the best for a summer outfit. The only alteration I made was making the bust darts longer by about 8 centimetres (!) because originally they (sadly) did not even reach my bust. But that is the easiest alteration there is and with it the fit is great.

 

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I can really recommend both of these patterns and I would happily use both of them again. I keep imagining all the colourful fabrics I can use for them. All the plain colourful pants of the rainbow and print crazy tops in the flowiest of fabrics – the dream!

 

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I’m telling you, this dog doesn’t get it

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Thank you for reading!

Ana

Me and Flint / Ja i Flint

Today I will talk a little bit about my big love for the Flint pants pattern from Megan Nielsen. I fell in love with it when I first saw it, and I bought the pattern on the release date.

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Danas ću malo pisati o velikoj ljubavi prema kroju hlača Flint od  Megan Nielsen. Čim je kroj objavljen zaljubila sam se u njegove linije i detalje i kupila ga na dan objave.

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I made two cropped versions so far and I want to make more shorts for summer. The pattern is really easy to assemble. At first you might need some imagination regarding construction of the crossover closure, but when you make the first pair everything makes perfect sense. We are talking about pants with no zippers after all! The two closure options are either two buttons or a combination of a button and waist tie. A waist tie! I just love this details and as much as I believe in clean lines and minimalism on one hand I do not see myself making a pair without the bow. It is just too dang beautiful and different to skip.

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Do sada sam napravila dvije duže verzije, ali i nekoliko kratkih hlača za ljeto je na listi želja. Kroj je vrlo jednostavan za izradu. Na prvu treba nešto mašte da bi shvatili kako se hlače zatvaraju u struku, ali kada izradite prvi par sve bude savršeno jasno. Ipak pričamo o hlačama bez ciferšlusa! Dvije opcije za zatvaranje hlača su dva gumba ili kombinacija gumba i mašne. Mašna! Toliko volim ovaj detalj i koliko god vjerovala u ljepotu jednostavnog dizajna i linija mislim da neću moći izraditi ovaj kroj bez mašne. Ipak je taj detalj nekako poseban. 

dav
Their first outing at a wedding / njihov prvi izlazak na vjenčanju

 

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Backstage view / pogled odostraga

 

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Rust crepe version that does not look so rust in the pictures unfortunately / Hrđavo narančasta verzija koja nažalost ne izgleda toliko hrđavo narančasta na slikama

I made both versions is a crepe fabric and I love both colours. First pair I made was in a deep green medium weight crepe and the fabric is perfect for it. It has just the right weight to fall nicely and keep shape but also light enough to dance around you feet while moving. I love wearing them and how comfortable they feel.
The second pair is made in a lightweight rust coloured crepe. The colour s just beautiful and I was into it during fall when I was looking at copper like leaves all around. But the weight of the fabric means they swish around way more (like a no. 1 disco hit) and they do not hold the shape as good, specially around the hem. I have to admit that I do ship hand sewing finishes when I can use my machine, but it might have been a smarter move to do it the right way for this pair. The machine finish makes them look a bit like a home-made garment and not hand-made, which we all know is not the way to go. I might go back to that and revise it to make them a bit more presentable. But I still wear them and the bow looks spectacular in this fabric. Just saying.

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Obje verzije sam napravila u krep tkanini i ne mogu se odlučiti koja boja mi je draža. prvi par sam napravila u tamno zelenoj krep tkanini srednje težine i to je odličan izbor za ovaj kroj. Tkanina ima točno pravu dozu težine tako da lijepo pada i pritom drži formu, ali u pokretu ipak pleše oko nogu. Volim ih nositi i toliko su ugodne.
Drugi par sam izradila iz laganog krepa u boji hrđe. To je bilo na jesen kada sam stalno bila okružena otpalim lišćem i ta boja mi nije izlazila iz glave. Kako je ova tkanina lakša hlače puno više plešu (kao najbolji disko hit) i zbog toga ne drže najbolje formu, pogotovo kod ruba. Moram priznati da kada postoji mogućnost završiti rub mašinom uvijek biram tu opciju ispred ručnog šivanja. Ali mislim da bi za ovaj par ručno šivanje bila sretnija opcija pa je to nešto čemu ću se možda ponovo vratiti i popraviti. To je razlog zbog kojeg ova verzija ispada više kao da je kućne izrade, a ne ručne izrade (što nije baš preporučeni recept za dobar stil). Ali svejedno ih nosim a mašna jednostavno izgleda spektakularno u ovoj tkanini. Samo kažem.

dav

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Version no 1 to the left vs version no 2 to the right / verzija 1 lijevo i verzija 2 desno

These were the first pants I ever made and I did not have to do any changes to the pattern. I think they are a great option for the first time pant makers out there since they are not overly fitted in the behind area. They are somewhat fitted in the waist with darts in the front and back and you can play with these to get them just right. They skim your hips like silk dreams and fall down. I think this is a very flattering look and great to learn the basic construction of pants before continuing with other more fitted patterns.

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Ovo su prve hlače koje sam napravila i kroj nisam trebala dodatno prilagođavati. Mislim da je ovo odličan izbor za sve djevice po pitanju izrade hlača jer kroj nije uzak u stražnjem dijelu. Hlače su uske u području struka gdje ih lako možete oblikovati po svom tijelu, a lijepo padaju preko kukova. Ovo je odličan kroj za upoznavanje sa izradom i konstrukcijom hlača. 

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They even make garages smile! / Čak izmamljuju osmijeh i na garažama!

I do get compliments when I wear them and funnily enough I was told that these pants are becoming my signature style. The truth is that all compliment go fast forward to Megan. So thank you Megan for jazzing up my style, it is much appreciated!

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Dobila sam komplimente za ove hlače i čak mi je rečeno da su one postale moj potpis. Ali svo komplimenti idu ravno Megan za odličan kroj. Hvala Megan što si digla moj stil na viši nivo!

dav

 

I will be making more shorts as well for the summer. The pattern can be made in one day, but me being not that fast when it comes to sewing I tend to do them in two or three afternoons. But shorts could be my do-it-in-one-day pattern. We shall see, I will report back.

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Sašit ću i par kratkih hlača za ljeto. Hlače se mogu sašiti u jednom danu ali kako ja nisam najbrža po pitanju šivanja obično ih izradim u dva ili tri popodneva. Ali kratke hlače bi mogle biti brže i moj novi jednodnevni projekt. Izvještaj slijedi.

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Thank you for stopping by!

Hvala na čitanju!

 

Ana