Halla Coat by Named Patterns – Breaking the Pattern book

Do you ever dream of THE coat? And in that dream, do you have the perfect coat that is right amount different than its peers on the street? Does it catch the eye with details and pops of colour, yet is somehow elegantly subdued with its crisp lines and simple silhouette? I think I may have made myself that coat from my dreams. I kid you not.

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Sanjate li ikada o savršenom kaputu? I u tom snu, je li taj kaput drugačiji točno onoliko koliko treba od svojih vršnjaka na ulici? Je li upadljiv s detaljima i bojom, ali istovremeno elegantno nenapadan sa svojim jasnim linijama i jednostavnom siluetom? Mislim da sam uspjela napraviti taj savršeni kaput iz svojih snova. Bez zezanja.

The pattern is by Named Clothing from their book Breaking the Pattern they released last year. The book has ten sewing patterns and I went straight for the coat. I am not yet the most experienced out there but I have already two coats under my belt so I knew I could make this one as well.
Be prepared – the coat has 20 pattern pieces! I knew that before I started but did not really give it much thought. But when I started tracing it out I was tired after the first 5 pieces…I did not even manage to trace them all out in one day. So only tracing out took two days. Then another day for cutting out the main fabric and lining. Then another day for cutting out the interfacing and ironing it on the corresponding pieces. This is now already 4 days without even touching the sewing machine. But soon the fun part started and it was fun assembling the pieces together one by one. More so because I used two different fabrics.

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Kroj je od Named Patterns iz njihove knjige Breaking the Pattern koja je izašla krajem prošle godine.  Knjiga ima deset krojeva razne težine, a ja sam išla ravno na kaput. Još uvijek nisam najiskusnija, ali do sada sam napravila već dva kaputa tako da sam znala da ću moći bez problema napraviti i ovaj.
Budite spremni – kroj ima 20 krojnih komada! To sam znala prije nego sam počela raditi na njemu, ali nisam se baš zamarala s tim. Ali kada sam počela precrtavati krojne dijelove bila sam umorna već nakon prvih 5 komada…..nisam ih čak uspjela precrtati sve u istom danu. Tako da je samo iscrtavanje uzelo dva dana. Dodatan dan mi je trebao za izrezivanje vune i postave. Još jedan dan je otišao na izrezivanje flizelina i peglanja tog flizelina na određene komade vune. To je sada već 4 dana bez ijednog šava. Ali brzo nakon toga je došao zabavni dio šivanja i slaganja dijelova u cjelinu. Bilo je dodatno zabavno zbog dvije boje vune koje sam koristila.

The blue wool fabric is double sided – one side with different shades of blue and grey which I used on the coat bodice and sleeves and plain dark blue side I used for the belt. The fabric is thicker because there is also an extra layer between these two sides onto which both fabrics are glued. The faux collar, real collar and belt loops are made in light red wool I had left over from a cape my mom made me years ago. This red wool is much thinner so I interfaced it to make it work better in combination with the thicker wool fabric. And I can not tell you how satisfying it was working with both of these fabrics. They pressed like a dream and sewed up so easily, I was  – and I am still – impressed. I was struggling a bit with the belt and belt loops since the fabric is a bit thicker, but that was expected.

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Plava vuna je dvostrana – jedna strana je napravljena iz više plavih i sivih niti vune koju sam iskoristila za glavni dio kaputa i tamno plave strane koju sam iskoristila za remen. Tkanina je deblja jer je između ta dva sloja vune umetnut dodatan sloj na koji je ta vuna nalijepljena s obje strane. Revere i držače za remen sam napravila iz tanje crvene vune preostale od pelerine koju mi je mama sašila prije nekoliko godina. Ova vuna je dosta tanja pa sam ju dodatno učvrstila s flizelinom da bi bolje izgledala i da bi lakše radila s njom u kombinaciji s debljom plavom vunom. I ne mogu vam opisati koliko je super bilo raditi s obje vune. Odlično su reagirale na peglanje i bilo je tako lako šivati s njima da sam baš bila – i još jesam – impresionirana.  Malo sam se mučila s remenom i držačima za remen jer je tkanina tu deblja, ali to je bilo očekivano.

The idea for colour blocking came from my boyfriend. I had this blue wool fabric since last winter, it was a present from his parents. I wanted to make a coat from it then but never knew what pattern would work for it, so it lingered until the very last days of this winter. I went through a few patterns before settling on this one. With others, I feared it would easily end up looking like a blanket with this fabric (and I really wanted to avoid that). Then my boyfriend mentioned colour blocking and it all came into place.

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Ideja o kombinaciji boja je dečkova ideja. Plavu vunu sam imala od prošle zime kada sam ju dobila na poklon od njegovih roditelja. Već sam ju tada htjela pretvoriti u kaput, ali nikako nisam znala koji kroj koristiti. I tako je tkanina sjedila na polici sve do zadnjih dana ove zime. Razmišljala sam o više krojeva prije nego sam se odlučila za ovaj. S drugima mi se činilo da bi kaput na kraju lako mogao izgledati kao dekica (a to sam se trudila izbjeći). Onda je dečko dao ideju o kombiniranju boja i sve je sjelo na svoje mjesto.

The pattern originally has two belt loops that are sewn in the side seams. I did not like that and also wanted to make them shorter so they would hug the belt. In the original, they are a bit longer and stick out a bit. I made them as the original at first but then removed them, shortened them and sewed back on. I also added two extra belt loops in the back so they cross over (again, an idea from my boyfriend/in house designer).

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Kroj originalno ima dva držača za remen na bočnim stranama koji su ušiveni u bočni šav. To mi se nije sviđalo i htjela sam ih napraviti kraćima tako da budu uži uz remen. U originalu su duže i više strše van od kaputa. Iz prve sam ih napravila prema originalu, ali sam ih onda maknula, skratila i takve ponovo našila na kaput. Dodala sam i dva dodatna držača na leđima koji se križaju u X (opet, dečkova ideja).  

The lining came together really fast. I used two lining fabrics – red for the bodice to add the extra colour accent and greyish one from my stash left over from other projects for the sleeves. The facings are fully interfaced and as I used canvas interfacing it really makes it firm and crisp which works really well with this pattern and fabric. I mean the whole thing is a true love story.

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Postava je bila lagana i brza za izraditi. Koristila sam dvije postave – crvenu za tijelo radi dodatnog naglaska crvene i sivkastu za rukave koju sam već imala doma. Naličje kaputa oko revera i duž prednje strane je ojačano flizelinom i za to sam koristila kanvas flizelin. On je deblji i čvršći i odlično paše na ovu tkaninu i kroj i zbog njega kaput bolje drži formu. Mislim, cijeli kaput je jedna velika ljubavna priča.

The first Named coat I made was their Gaia coat and I already blogged about it here. I got that one directly as a PDF from their website and the instructions are really detailed and made the whole process very easy. I must say that I struggled a bit more with the book instructions for the Halla coat, as they are shorter. Maybe an editing decision for the book. But if this was my first coat, it would be a bit less encouraging. Rachel from Stitched up from YouTube saved me with some info. I watched her video on the book review for parts that I was missing in the instructions and went back to Gaia coat instructions for parts that are the same in the construction process of both coats. Overall, I’m glad I have the book and I’m looking forward to all other patterns I will make from it.

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Prvi kaput od Named koji sam napravila je Gaia kaput o kojem sam ranije pisala ovdje. Taj kroj sam kupila kao PDF direktno s njihove stranice i njegove upute su bile detaljne i zbog toga je cijeli proces izrade kaputa bio jednostavan. Moram priznati da sam se s ovim kaputom više namučila jer su upute u knjizi skraćene. Možda je to odluka izdavača, ali da mi je ovo bio prvi kaput to bi bilo malo obeshrabrujuće. Rachel sa Stitched Up YouTube kanala me spasila s par informacija. Pogledala sam njen video u kojem priča o knjizi za pomoć u pronalasku nekih informacija, a za određene korake koji su isti kod oba kaputa gledala sam upute Gaia kaputa. Sve u svemu, drago mi je da imam knjigu i veselim se isprobati i druge krojeve iz nje.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

My colour story / Moja priča o boji

I like colour. I love colour. Not sure which is more true. I do love it, but when I really look at my wardrobe maybe that is not really the right choice of words. I do like them and I have some colourful garments in there, but it does not really seam to be a wardrobe from a person that loves colour. But it does look like a wardrobe from little old me and it is getting brighter with time.

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Volim boju. Sviđa mi se boja. Nisam sigurna koja rečenica je točnija. Volim boju, ali kada pogledam u svoj ormar možda to nije najprikladniji odabir riječi. Sviđaju mi se boje i imam neke šarene komade u ormaru, ali to baš i nije garderoba osobe koja voli boje. Ali izgleda kao moja garderoba i s vremenom postaje sve šarenija.

In my teenage years I used to hide behind black, grey and brown. Beige was my „happy“ colour as it was brighter than my other clothes, but over time it was just one of the uninteresting shades in my anything-but-colourful wardrobe. I liked colours on others, but never felt I could pull it off, or to be really honest, felt comfortable or confident enough to wear them. Now I see how silly that is and how expressing through clothes can be fun and make you feel great, but tell that to teenage shy me and you will get a sarcastic laugh at best.

But now I am older, smarter and care way less about what others think and whether I will be noticeable on the street. And sewing has a lot to do with that. When I first started sewing I made only dresses and occasional tops. I am not really a big dress wearer, but that is how it usually starts. It is in parts the easiest garment to sew and most fun to make. This had nothing to do with my style, as I did not wear dresses everyday and although they did get worn on occasions or over the weekends they mostly sat in my wardrobe. With time (and mostly after joining the awesome Instagram sewing community) I started exploring with sewing other garments and by now I made coats, trousers, shirts, cardigans, t-shirts, skirts and of course, more dresses. I diversified in my garment making which gave me more opportunity to diversify in colour. This was a new way to introduce colour into my everyday garments because trousers and t-shirts/shirts are what I wear daily. Colour was there in traces in the beginning, but now I feel I can pull off a bright colour in any of these garments. Not because I think it suits me all of a sudden, but I no longer have that block in my head thinking I should keep away from it.

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U tinejdžerskim godinama sam se uglavnom skrivala iza crne, sive i smeđe. Bež je bila moja „vesela“ boja jer je bila svjetlija od drugih, ali s vremenom je i to postala jedna od dosadnijih nijansi u mojem sve samo ne šarenom ormaru. Boje su mi se sviđale na drugima, ali nisam mislila da meni pristaju ili da budem potpuno iskrena, nisam se osijećala ugodno u njima kao upadljivijim bojama. Sad znam koliko je to blesavo i koliko izražavanje kroz boje može biti zabavno i utjecati na pozitivno raspoloženje. Ali reći to tinejdžerskoj meni i u najboljem slučaju dobili bi sarkastičan osmjeh kao odgovor.

Sada sam starija, pametnija i puno manje brinem o tuđem mišljenju i hoću li biti primjetna na ulici. I šivanje ima velike veze sa tim. Kada sam počela šivati izrađivala sam samo haljine i povremeno neku majicu. Inače nisam baš tip za svakodnevno nošenje haljina, ali tako se uglavnom počinje. Dijelom je to najjednostavniji i najzabavniji komad za sašiti. To nije odražavalo moj stil, pošto nisam baš tip za svakodnevne haljine i iako sam ih nosila za prigode ili vikende uglavnom su visile u ormaru. S vremenom (i dobrim dijelom nakon otkrivanja odlične zajednice na Instagramu) sam počela širiti spektar šivanja i napravila kapute, hlače, košulje, veste, majice, šoseve i naravno, još haljina. Proširila sam raspon odjevnih predmeta koje sam šivala što mi je dalo više prilike za uvođenje boja u garderobu, pošto hlače i majice/košulje nosim svakodnevno. U početku su to bili tragovi boja, ali sada su to komadi u bilo kojoj boji duge. Ne zato što mislim da mi sada odjednom pristaju, već zato što više nemam tu glupu ideju u glavi da ih ne nosim.

And now I want all of them. Rainbow of fabrics. Red, yellow, orange, blue, green. I want them all. Recently, as some of you may know, I made a new coat in a beautiful rust colour. Before I had a rtw black coat (which I still love and wear occasionally) and a beige coat I made last winter. I would say this new rust coat is a step up in the colour game. I love this colour at the moment and can not get enough of it. I already have culottes and one turtleneck in that colour and another twill fabric waiting to be made into trousers. This is probably a faze I am going through, but what I love about it is that I embraced it this time around and I’m taking advantage of it. And by having a coat in that colour I do it daily. It really makes me happy and I really believe it is partly because of the colour, although the fact it was made by my own hands is another big reason for it.

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I sad ih želim sve. Duga svih boja. Crvena, žuta, narančasta, plava, zelena. Želim ih sve. Nedavno sam, kao što neki od vas možda već znaju, sašila divan narančasti (hrđavi) kaput. Prije toga sam imala kupovni crni kaput (koji i dalje volim i ponekad nosim) i bež kaput koji sam napravila prošle zime. Rekla bi da je novi tamno narančasti kaput definitivno stepenicu iznad toga u igri bojama. Trenutno jako volim ovu boju i ne mogu je se zasititi. Već imam jedne hlače i dolčevitu u toj boji i još jednu keper tkaninu koja čeka da postane hlače. To je vjerojatno faza kroz koju prolazim, ali volim da sam ju u potpunosti prihvatila i iskoristila. A pošto imam kaput u toj boji iskorištavam ju svakodnevno. Baš me uveseljava i vjerujem da je to dobrim dijelom zbog boje, iako naravno činjenica da sam kaput izradila svojim vlastitim rukama ima veliki utjecaj u tome.

I still have black and grey pieces in my wardrobe and I wear them regularly. But I have the option to go on the colour route if I feel like it and that feels sort of liberating. Might sound silly, heck, might sound stupid to some, but it makes me feel great and that is all I care about.  So here I am putting my rust wool coat on and heading out for another day of colouring the dull grey winter.

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Još uvijek imam crne i sive komade u garderobi i redovno ih nosim. Ali ako poželim imam opciju otići na obojenu stranu i to je nekako oslobađajuće. Možda zvuči smiješno, možda nekome i bedasto, ali mene uveseljava i to je sve što me zanima. I eto me tu, s narančastim kaputom preko ramena, spremna da izađem van obojiti još jedan dosadan sivi zimski dan.

my sewing queue for spring / moj plan šivanja za proljeće

Do you have a favourite colour? Does colour affect you and your mood? I find this interesting and there are articles and books written on that subject – the sociology and meaning of colour. It is funny how what colours represent changed throughout history as well. This subject is way bigger than this single post, but if you are interested in it I encourage you to explore it.

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Imate vi najdražu boju? Utječe li boja na vas i vaše raspoloženje? Meni je to jako zanimljivo i o tome su već napisani brojni članci i knjige – sociologija i značenje boja. Zanimljivo je i kao se značenje boja mijenjalo kroz povijest. Ta tema je puno veća od ovog posta, ali ako vas ta tema interesira savjetujem da ju istražite.

 

I  pulled some fabrics out from my stash to use them for upcoming spring and summer makes that fit into a rainbow. Have a virtual stroll through the rainbow with me.

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Izvukla sam neke tkanine s polica koje ću iskoristiti za nadolazeće planove šivanja za proljeće i ljeto. Dođite u virtualnu šetnju samnom kroz tu dugu.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

Gaia Quilted Coat by Named Clothing

I made a new coat and I am so pumped about it! The pattern I used is the Gaia Quilted coat by Named Patterns. I am surprised that I lean toward coat patterns that are not fitted, because when I was buying RTW ones before, I always looked at them being more cinched in the waist. Funny how that changes.

 

This pattern has some details I never saw on a coat before and it just drew me in. Shoulder detail is here no. 1 for me and I just love that. Lapel is the very second and it maybe the thing that draws the eye in more. I was in!

The pattern is oriented towards advanced sewers. It would be useful if you already made a coat before you take this project on, but maybe with time and patience even an advanced beginner could make it. Maybe? I made my first coat last winter so had already the experience of bagging out the lining and working with wool. That was the Chloe coat by Sew Over It from the Intro to Sewing Coats course and I blogged about it here. I am a visual person so working on my first coat with video support was really helpful.

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Napravila sam novi kaput i oduševljena sam! Koristila sam Gaia Quilted kroj od Named Patterns. Iznenađena sam kako posežem za krojevima kaputa koji nisu uski u struku. Još dok sam kupovala kapute uvijek sam gledala da imaju neku formu u tom dijelu. Zanimljivo kako se to mijenja.

Ovaj kroj ima neke odlične detalje koje ranije nisam vidjela na kaputima i to me privuklo. Najbolji detalj mi je svakako detalj na ramenima, a drugi je rever koji možda i više privlači pogled.  I to je ono s čime me ovaj kroj kupio (iako sam naravno ja kupila njega). 

Kroj je namijenjen naprednijim krojačicama. Po mojem mišljenju je korisno da već imate iskustvo šivanja kaputa prije ovog projekta, ali možda uz dovoljno vremena i strpljenja bi ga čak i naprednija manje iskusna krojačica mogla svladati. Možda? Svoj prvi kaput sam napravila prošle zime tako da imam iskustvo izvlačenja postave i šivanja s vunom. Za njega sam koristila kroj Chloe od Sew Over It iz njihovog online tečaja Intro to Sewing Coats i o njemu sam pisala ranije ovdje. Vizualno bolje učim, pa lakše korake shvaćam iz videa nego iz pisanih uputa i to mi je tada puno pomoglo.

Shoulder detail / detalj na ramenu

I did encounter few glitches along the way. Maybe that was just me, maybe it was the fabric I choose. I made my coat from boiled wool I got at a local store in Zagreb. This fabric is thicker that the fabric Named girls used in their sample garment. It looks great in the end, but it did mean more pressing and more volume on the seams where more fabric layers were on top of each other. But hey, that is coat making…..

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Imala sam na neke probleme u koracima kod konstrukcije. Možda sam to samo ja, možda je to samo odabir tkanine. Kaput sam izradila iz kuhane vune koju sam nabavila u lokalnom dućanu Svijet tkanine u Zagrebu. Ova tkanina je deblja od tkanine koju su Named cure koristile za svoj pokazni primjerak. Na kraju kaput izgleda super, samo sam morala puno više koristiti peglu i imala sam puno deblji sloj materijala koji je morao proći kroz mašinu. Al čuj, to je izrada kaputa…..

And let’s talk about the colour! I am feeling a bigger need for colourful clothes than ever before. I used to dress in black, gray and brown all my teenage years and it probably remains my base palette now. I did make more colourful garments but overall I am craving it more and more. That is why I am happy to have a coloured coat now! The first one was camel and although it is not black it still felt „too safe“. Not that I am screaming colour with a rust coat but I am closer to that. It really cheers me up to put it on and whenever I look down or in the mirror I smile. So I guess I did it right.

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Sad malo o boji! Imam veću potrebu za šarenom odjećom nego ikad prije. U tinejdžerskim godinama sam se uglavnom oblačila u sivu, crnu i smeđu i to se zadržalo kao neka baza u mojoj garderobi. Izradila sam već neke šarenije komade, ali sada ih želim još više. Upravo zato sam sretna što sad imam kaput u boji! Prvi kaput koji sam izradila bio je bež i iako bež nije crna svejedno je nekako „presigurna“. Nije da sad vrištim u tamno narančastom kaputu, ali svakako sam bliže tome. Svaki put se nasmiješim kada pogledam dolje ili se vidim u ogledalu dok nosim kaput tako da sam svakako napravila nešto dobro.

COAT CONSTRUCTION

I made a muslin to check the fit before cutting into my precious wool. I made my coat in the smallest size offered in the pattern. After I saw this size would work I made up the lining and then started assembling the coat shell. It takes longer because of all the pressing and I used a wood “tool” for better results. Usually a tailor’s wood clapper is used for this, but I do not have one and just used a leftover piece from the floor moulding. But any flat piece of wood in the right size works. I used a gauze between the iron and wool not to leave any marks on the fabric and pressed (not ironed) the wool. Ironing it might stretch the fabric. Then I removed the iron and the gauze and pressed the seam surface with wood until it completely cooled down. This way wood takes the heat from the fabric and wool keeps the shape. I had to repeat it few times with bulkier seams at the pockets.
I avoid pressing from the right side of the fabric to avoid any possible marks on the fabric, especially if the fabric has a nap.

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IZRADA KAPUTA

Izradila sam probnu test verziju da provjerim veličinu prije nego zarežem u svoju dragocjenu vunu. Kaput sam izradila u najmanjoj veličini ponuđenoj u kroju. Kada sam utvrdila da je veličina dobra sašila sam postavu i počela sastavljati vanjski dio (ljusku?) kaputa. Ovaj dio traje duže zbog konstantnog peglanja šavova i za to sam koristila drvo za bolji rezultat. Za to se u pravilu koristi konkretan krojački drveni predmet (težak i ima dršku s donjom ravnom površinom za pritiskanje podloge; eng tailor’s wood clapper) ali kako ga nemam koristila sam preostali komad drva od lajsni. Bilo koji komad drva ravne površine i odgovarajuće veličine može poslužiti za ovu svrhu. Nisam peglala direktno vunu nego sam između uvijek stavljala gazu (to je bitno da pegla ne ostavi tragove na tkanini). Pritiskala sam toplom peglom preko gaze na mjestu gdje su šavovi. Kod peglanja je bitno da se pegla ne pomiče,  već podiže i spušta da ne bi rastegnula tkaninu. Kad maknem peglu i gazu na to mjesto stavim komad drva i pritićem dok se tkanina ne ohladi. Na ovaj način drvo preuzme toplinu iz tkanine i vuna tako zadrži oblik. To sam trebala ponoviti više puta na mjestima gdje su šavovi bili deblji, kao kod džepova. Izbjegavam peglati vunu s prednje strane materijala da izbjegnem ostavljanje tragova od peglanja, pogotovo ako tkanina ima dubinu (ako je 3D) kao što ju ima kuhana vuna.

 

This is how I feel every time I wear this coat / ovako se osjećam svaki put kad nosim kaput

I made the mistake of making entire pockets out of wool. I could have used lining fabric for the inside of the pockets. I went with wool because I wanted it to be warmer. Now when the whole thing is finished and pressed and pressed (and pressed) it looks good and is warm but I had to work on it way longer than needed if I had one less layer of wool there. Just something to keep in mind for next time.

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Napravila sam tu grešku da sam cijeli džep izradila iz vune. Moja greška je što nisam koristila postavu za unutrašnjost džepa. Za to sam isto koristila vunu jer sam htjela da džep bude topliji. Sad kad je sve gotovo i ispeglano, ispeglano (i još jednom ispeglano) izgleda dobro i toplo je, ali sam morala potrošiti više vremena za te korake nego što bi trebala da sam koristila postavu i radila s tanjim slojem. Nije velika greška, ali nešto o čemu ću bolje drugi put razmisliti.

A slap in the face was when I constructed the shell and tried it on. This is the first moment you get to see how it will look on you. I was a bit disappointed because I looked lost in it. I looked like a 12 year old girl in mom’s big coat. It was just too big and this is the smallest size in the pattern. It really made me feel all different kinds of feelings and I realised that in my experience there are pattern companies that stop with a bottom pattern size that is apparently above my size. So I let it sit for that day and picked it up again the day after. Then I took the sides in from the middle of the sleeve all the way to the pockets. I took it in for about 2 centimetres which sums up to a total of about 8 cm in the overall width of the coat! This helped a lot with the fit on the back as there was too much fabric there that just looked funny. I also had to take in the same amount on the lining so they would fit together.

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Kada sam sašila ljusku kaputa probala sam ga i osjećaj je bio kao pljuska po licu. To je prvi trenutak u kojem se može probati kaput i dobiti dojam kako će izgledati. Bila sam razočarana jer sam izgledala izgubljeno u njemu. Izgledala samo kao dvanaestogodišnja djevojčica u maminom prevelikom kaputu. Jednostavno je bio prevelik, a to je najmanja veličina koja se nudi u kroju. To je pokrenulo cijelu paletu osjećaja, ali i realizaciju da ima više firmi koje svoje krojeve izrađuju s najmanjom veličinom koja je meni prevelika. Odlučila sam za taj dan sve ostaviti po strani i vratila mu se opet idući dan. Onda sam suzila kaput na stranama od sredine rukava sve do džepova. Suzila sam ga za otprilike 2 centimetra, što je ukupno 8 centimetara na cijeloj širini kaputa! To je puno pomoglo za izgled leđa jer je prethodno tu bilo previše materijala što je izgledalo smiješno. Istu količinu sam trebala suziti i na postavi da bi odgovarala kaputu. 

 

When facings were attached it started looking like a proper coat and I fell back in love with it. Then the problem was figuring out how to get the lapels to sit flat without doing topstitching. I posted a question about it in my Instagram stories and got some great advice. Thank you to everyone who wrote, I really appreciate it and I did learn something new! Read bellow.

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Kad sam sašila revere počeo je ličiti na kaput i opet sam se zaljubila. Onda se javio problem kako dobiti da rever sjedne lijepo bez šivanja s vanjske strane. Postavila sam pitanje vezano za to na Instagram storyu i dobila sam odlične savjete. Hvala svima koji su odgovorili, puno ste mi pomogli i naučila sam nešto novo! Čitaj u nastavku.

 

Advice I got:

  1. Topstitch
  2. Understitch bottom side of the fabric (bottom side being the side you can not see. You change understitching from the facing on the bottom to the shell on the lapels).
  3. Hand stitch from the inside – invisible from outside and would anchor the facing down
  4. Use fuse tape
  5. Press and lay something heavy on it until it cools down

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Savjeti koje sa dobila:

  1. Prošiti površinski vidljivi šav duž revera
  2. Prošiti nevidljivi šav na licu revera – nevidljivo s gornje strane
  3. Ručno prošiti rever s unutarnje strane – nevidljivo s gornje i donje strane
  4. Koristiti ljepljivu traku
  5. Ispeglati i na vrh postaviti nešto teško dok se ne ohladi

I tried to avoid no. 1, because I just did not want to do it on this particular coat.

I tried no. 2 on the lower part of the front understitching the facing, but that did not make much change at all. I ironed it and it did sit flat but when moving the facing kept poking out and the seam turned to the outside.

I also tried to avoid no. 3 because I am lazy and as I did not have any fuse tape at hand no. 4 was also not an option.

I tried no. 5 several times, and it worked well only when I used a wet gauze. I was afraid it would shrink my wool as I did not pretreat it (preshrink it), but it did not do any of that. It flattened the wool so beautifully. I tested it on a scarp first of course to make sure I don’t cry when it is too late. That was my mom’s advice, so thank you mom!

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Pokušala sam izbjeći br. 1, jer nisam htjela taj detalj na ovom kaputu.

Br. 2 sam probala na donjem dijelu prednjice kaputa, ali nije bilo nikakve razlike. Ispeglala sam taj dio i bolje je izgledalo, ali kada bi se kretala šav bi se počeo izvrtati.

Također sam probala izbjeći br. 3 jer sam lijena, a pošto nisam imala ljepljivu traku doma br. 4 nije bio opcija.  

Br. 5 sam probala nekoliko puta i najveći pomak je bio kada sam smočila gazu. Bojala sam se da će para skupiti vunu. Nisam ju prije šivanja pripremila u tom smislu, parila ju peglom da se stisne, pa nisam htjela da se to desi u trenutku kad su svi krojni komadi već izrezani po mjeri. Ali to se nije desilo i vuna se ispeglala tako lijepo. To sam prvo naravno testirala na viška vune da nebi u suprotnom plakala kad je prekasno. To je bio mamin savjet, pa hvala mama!

From all the great advice received I went with no. 3 in the end and hand-stitched both front seams from the inside with a ladder stitch. I saw Cotton & Curls on Instagram repairing clothes that way recently and I thought that would be a good option. And it was, it worked like a charm! I think that might be my go-to method from now on. What I will do better next time is not pull so strong on the thread because you can see a bit of pulling if you look closely. But not something that bothers me too much.

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Od svih dobivenih savjeta odlučila sam se za br. 3 i ručno sam prošila unutrašnjost prednjeg šava s tzv. ladder stitch (u slobodnom prijevodu ljestvičasti šav). Vidjela sam da je nedavno Cotton & Curls na Instagramu objavila video kako s tim šavom popravlja rupe na odjeći i činilo mi se da bi to super funkcioniralo ovdje. I je, odlučno je odradilo točno ono što sam htjela! Mislim da bi to od sad nadalje mogla biti moja najdraža metoda završavanja kragni kod kaputa. Drugi put ću pripaziti da ne vučem tako jako konac jer se na mjestima vidi zatezanje. To nije nešto što me previše smeta, ali je bila dobra škola za ubuduće.

After that it was a breeze. I sewed the lining to the facing, finished sleeve and bottom seams and bagged out the lining.

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Nakon toga je bilo jednostavno. Spojila sam postavu i ljusku kaputa, završila šavove na rukavima i na dnu kaputa i izvukla postavu (metoda koja se koristi za strojno završavanje rubova umjesto ručnog završavanja koje duže traje – eng. bagging out the lining).

In the end I hand stitched the best label in and that is basically all I could have said about this coat because it truly was made with love and swear words!

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Na  kraju sam ručno našila etiketu i te riječi s etikete su upravo ono što mogu reći o ovom kaputu jer je stvarno napravljen s ljubavlju i psovkama!

I love my new coat and I have been wearing it non stop since I made it. And that is what it’s all about folks! I also caught the coat making bug and really want to make another coat this winter. Let’s see if that happens.

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Obožavam svoj novi kaput i nosila sam ga svaki dan otkad sam ga napravila. I to je poanta svega ovoga! A dodatno sam se i zarazila sa šivanjem kaputa i želim napraviti još jedan prije kraja zime. Ajmo vidjeti hoće li se to i dogoditi.

Can you see how much I love this coat / možete vidjeti koliko volim ovaj kaput?

Thank you for reading,

Hvala na čitanju,

Ana

Kew Lindo – Nina Lee Kew dress pattern / Nina Lee Kew haljina

The Kew dress by Nina Lee Patterns is a real beauty and I was eyeing it ever since it came out. I was not sure it was really me (although it is my dream wardrobe, just not sure I would wear it as much). So I waited. And waited. And one day I caved and got the pattern. That is how it usually works 😊

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Kew haljina od Nina Lee Patterns je prava ljepotica i dugo sam ju mjerkala. Nisam bila sigurna da je u potpunosti moj stil (iako tako izgleda moja garderoba iz snova, samo nisam bila sigurna da bi ju u stvarnosti dovoljno nosila). I tako sam čekala. I čekala. Sve dok jednog dana nisam popustila i kupila kroj. Tako to kod mene obično ide 😊

 

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I thought about making the dress, but as I am really into separates recently I decided to do the top first and check the fit while I am at it. Top version is not included in the pattern but it is so easy to make. You just measure how long you want your top to be and make the bodice that much longer (with extra 2 cm or so for the hem). Easy peasy.

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Razmišljala sam napraviti haljinu, ali kako sam u zadnje vrijeme totalno luda za majicama odlučila sam napraviti top verziju i usput provjeriti jesu li potrebne neke preinake. Top verzija nije uključena u kroj ali je to jednostavno napraviti. Samo trebate izmjeriti koje dužine želite majicu i za toliko produžite kroj gornjeg dijela (plus otprilike 2 centimetra za dovršiti rub). Jednostavnije ne može.

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Combined here with Flint pants pattern by Megan Nielsen / ovdje u kombinaciji s krojem hlača Flint od Megan Nielsen

 

Now the fit – it was ok. That means that it was good but I had some gaping in the back. The back bodice was a bit big in the shoulder area so the neckline stood up. Not good. But I only noticed that when the facing was already sewn and the top was basically done apart from the hem. So I debated with my inner self weather I prefer to take it apart, take it in, redo the facing and stitch it all back together or I want to go the lazy route and try taking it in somehow. Guess which route I choose. Yes, lazy as one can be. So, I opted to make the back darts longer and sewed them all the way up to about 2 cm before the facing and bodice seam. This helped a bit but not 100% and there was still some gaping in the middle back. So finally I added a big dart in the middle and caught both bodice and facing in it. That gave perfect results and it now fits perfectly. This also helped with the front and raised the neckline a bit which I like. And it does not look like a butcher’s work at all and it actually gives a fun detail to the back.

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Kroj haljine mi je odgovarao, ali bila je potrebna manja intervencija. Sve je dobro pristajalo, ali kada sam praktički bila gotova sa svim osim s rubom, primijetila sam da su leđa prevelika i da majica strši u zrak kod vrata. A to nikako nije dobro. U tom trenutku sam debatirala bi li radije rastavila majicu, unjela ju i ponovo zašila nazad ili bi odabrala lijenu verziju i u ovom ju stadiju nekako unjela. Probajte pogoditi za što sam se odlučila. I tako sam išla lijenom rutom (pogodili ste, jel da?) i za početak sam produžila stražnje ušivke prema gore do otprilike 2 cm prije šava. To je malo pomoglo ali nije skroz riješilo problem. Onda sam na sredinu stavila veći ušivak s kojim sam uhvatila glavnu tkaninu i postavu i to je bilo to. Sada majica pristaje odlično, a to je čak i malo podiglo prednji izrez što mi se sviđa. I obzirom da sam išla ljenijom rutom na kraju rezultat uopće nije neuredan i još daje zanimljiv detalj na leđima. Pobjeda.

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I omitted the front darts since the fit without them is perfect and with them it was too snug. I hemmed the top after making buttonholes and sewed on the buttons to make it even. I plan to wear it tucked in so wanted to make it a bit longer. That way I can wear it with high waisted trousers or skirts.

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Prednje ušivke nisam napravila jer nisu bili potrebni. Kada sam ih ušila majica je bila preuska, pa sam se odlučila izbaciti ih iz kroja. Rub sam dovršila nakon izrade rupica za gumbe i postavljanja gumba da bi ga mogla uredno poravnati. Plan mi je nositi ju zataknutu u hlače ili šoseve visokog struka pa sam ju napravila malo dužom.

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And the colour of that fabric is everything! It is linen (with viscose I think) and it is gorgeous. I couldn’t leave without it when I saw it in a local shop. It is perfect for this time of year.

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Boja tkanine je sve što sam ikad sanjala! To je lan (mislim da ima i malo viskoze) i predivan je. Nisam mogla izići iz dućana bez njega. Boja je odlična za ovo doba godine.

 

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Combined here with Erin skirt pattern by Sew Over It / u kombinaciji s krojem šosa Erin od Sew Over It

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Next I plan to make a dress version (all three of them!) and also the skirt. I think they all look great paired with the right fabric. And my wardrobe is more cheerful once again with this new garment, so yey!

 

Iduće planiram napraviti haljinu (sve tri verzije zapravo!) ali i šos. Mislim da sve verzije kroja izgledaju predivno kada se kombiniraju s pravom tkaninom. A moj ormar je još malo sretniji sa sunčanom bojom tako da – jej!

 

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

 

Alder Shirt dress pattern trio – by Grainline studio

I found a new pattern obsession and boy do I love it! Meet the Alder shirt dress pattern by Grainline Studio. I had this pattern in my stash for a while and always wanted to make it soon(ish) but that idea somehow stretched over a year until I finally made it this August. But once I started I loved every minute of making it. It was such a fun sew! So much that I made three of them in two weeks. Obsession overload. But I think I got it out of my system and now I can see other patterns still exist out there 😊

 

Našla sam novu opsesiju i oh, koliko ju volim! Upoznajte Alder košulju haljinu od Grainline Studia. Ovaj kroj imam već dugo vremena i uvijek sam ga planirala uskoro započeti šivati, ali se to nekako otegnulo na godinu dana dok nisam napokon napravila prvu verziju početkom kolovoza.  Ali čim sam počela uživala sam u svakom trenutku ovog projekta. Toliko da sam napravila tri verzije u samo dva tjedna. Pukla kao kokica! Ali mislim da sam sada izbacila to iz sustava i mogu vidjeti da postoje i drugi krojevi osim ovoga 😊

 

 

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The dog is always excited on our photo-shoots / pas je uvijek uzbuđen kod slikanja

 

The pattern has two views and I made all three in the view B with gathered skirt. I think it looks great with that extra volume. I plan to make view A eventually but maybe it will be another year until the new obsession kicks in.

 

Kroj ima dvije verzije. Ja sam napravila tri haljine u verziji B sa skupljenim šosom. Mislim da taj dodatni volumen super izgleda. Planiram napraviti i verziju A u nekom trenutku ali to možda iduće godine kada na red dođe nova opsesija.

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The first one I made is from this perfect shade of green cotton shirting. I had this fabric in my stash with this pattern in mind for over a year waiting to start working on it. The fabric was affordable and perfect for a wearable muslin and it turned out perfect. I think this kind of light fabric with a bit of body is perfect for this pattern.

 

Prvu verziju sam napravila u laganom pamuku idealnom za košulje. Tu tkaninu sam imala preko godinu dana spremnu upravo za ovaj kroj. Tkanina je bila jeftina i idealna za probnu verziju, a nabavila sam ju u lokalnom Svijetu Tkanine. Haljina je super ispala i mislim da je ova tkanina odlična obzirom da je lagana, ali istovremeno drži formu.

 

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The collar construction went like a breeze. I have few collars under my belt by now and although none of them are prefect I do keep my hands busy with practice. One day, the perfect collar will appear in front of me. One day.

The button placket is crisp and clean and I loved making it. The ironing part of the sewing never excites me but with this one it was so much fun to get the straight shapes.

Armholes are finished with bias binding and I used cotton bias binding for the two cotton shirt dresses and a sateen one for the viscose shirt dress.

 

Sastavljanje kragne je išlo bez problema. Do sada sam već napravila nekoliko kragni i iako niti jedna od njih još nije savršena, vježbam pomalo sa svakim projektom. Jednog dana, doći će i ta savršena kragna. Jednog dana.

Izrada lajsne i podliska za zakopčavanje je bila zabavna. Inače me dio peglanja koji je uključen u šivanje baš i ne veseli, ali tu mi je bilo zabavno gledati stvaranje pravilnih linija.

Otvor za ruke je završen s trakom koja se koristi za porubljivanje kružnih rubova. Za dvije haljine napravljene od pamuka sam koristila pamučnu traku, a za haljinu od viskoze sam iskoristila satensku traku.

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Skirt is gathered and sewn onto the bodice. It is a bit tricky to insert on the corner and it includes a gambling moment of snipping into the fabric at one point but it turns great when done. I did that kind of thing before so it was not a problem or new technique but you never know what can happen when you have scissors in your hand and go overboard. But, we sewists are a brave bunch….

 

Šos je skupljen i kao takav našiven na ostatak haljine. Kod šivanja kuta gdje se šos spaja s gornjom i bočnom stranom haljine je nezgodan moment koji podrazumijeva rezanje tkanine koja još nije osigurana sa šavom. Već sam šivala takve krojeve , ali to svaki put aktivira živce jer nikada ne znate granice slobode sa škarama u rukama. Ali mi šivači smo hrabri ljudi…..

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I made so many buttonholes I am dizzy with counting. And choosing the buttons was a whole new story. I asked everyone over on Instagram what they thought and when the results came in they leaned towards my favourite buttons – vintage turquoise ones. Thank you for voting everyone!

Napravila sa toliko otvora za gumbe da više niti ne brojim. Odabir gumba je isto bio problem za sebe. Na Instagramu sam pitala koje gube da odaberem jer se nisam mogla odlučiti. Bilo je puno glasova i na kraju su vodili gumbi prema kojima sa i sama naginjala najviše – vintage tirkizni gumbi. Hvala svima na glasanju!

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The second dress I made in the Cotton + Steel fabric that I also got with this pattern in mind. Yep, also a year ago. Ain’t I a Speedy Gonzales. Anyway, the fabric does not look as good on photos as it does in real life. The fabric is a beaut and works well with this pattern. I added ties at the waist where skirt and bodice side seam starts. It think it adds more life and definition to the dress in this fabric.

 

Drugu haljinu sam napravila u Cotton + Steel viskozi koju sam isto nabavila radi ovog kroja. Tako je, isto prije godinu dana. Baš sam Speedy Gonzales. Uglavnom, tkanina puno bolje izgleda u živo nego na slikama. Predivna je i odlično paše na ovaj kroj haljine. Na ovu verziju sam dodala vezice na bočnom spoju suknje i prednjeg dijela haljine da ju mogu zavezati u struku. To daje više života haljini kod ove lepršave tkanine.

 

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The third one is I think my favourite one and it makes me so happy. I got this lemon fabric back at the beginning of spring on my trip to Vietnam. The fabric works so well for this pattern. It is such a happy dress and I feel great wearing it.

 

Treća verzija mi je najdraža i baš me uveseljava. Ovu limun tkaninu sam kupila početkom proljeća u Vijetnamu. Mislim da odlično paše na ovaj kroj. Ovo je baš vesela haljina i super se osjećam u njoj.

 

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Which one is your favourite?

I definitely plan to make the view A with V neck hack Grainline has on their blog as a tutorial.

 

Koja je vama najdraža?

Definitivno planiram napraviti i verziju A kroja s V izrezom za koju tutorial Grainline ima na svom blogu.

 

 

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

The story of Paola / Priča o Paoli – turtleneck pattern by Named Clothing

Named company has a strong position among indie pattern companies and it is clear why once you have a look at their pattern collection. They have great pieces and these patterns speak for them selves (I noticed Named does not promote itself as much on Instagram as others, yet everyone seams to go crazy for their patterns – that is at least my impression).
I have two of their patterns (although I crave for more) and the one I made (multiple times) so far is the Paola turtleneck. A great simple pattern that is a wardrobe staple. Ideal for a capsule wardrobe, if that is what rocks your boat. It rocks mine and I love the idea of a capsule wardrobe. Paola is one of the patterns in my winter capsule wardrobe. In all the colours, with all the fabric patterns. In stripes. In polka dots…. All goes with this pattern and you can choose which suits your style and wardrobe best.

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Među brojnim indi firmama u svijetu šivanja firma Named je svakako našla svoje mjesto pri vrhu. Kad pogledate njihovu kolekciju krojeva postane vam jasno i zašto. Imaju odlične krojeve i oni su ti koji ih reklamiraju i čine brend.
Među svojom privatnom kolekcijom imam dva njihova kroja (iako ih želim još) i onaj koji sam izradila već više puta je dolčevita Paola. Jednostavan, ali tako ključan kroj za garderobu. Idealan kroj za kapsularnu garderobu, ako je to nešto što vam se sviđa. Meni je idea kapsularne garderobe odlična i Paola je važan dio moje zimske garderobe. Možete ju izraditi u jednoj boji, s ludim uzorkom, u tkanini s točkama ili crtama….kroj je toliko jednostavan da ga je lako kombinirati s raznim tkaninama da dobijete točno ono što bi najviše odgovaralo vama i vašem stilu.

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Paola Turtleneck by Named Patterns / Dolčevita Paola od Named Patterns

 

It is easy and fast pattern to make and I have seen some sewist made it under an hour. I am not sure I fit into that group. I like to take my time. I make mistakes even with that, so I am not sure what would I end up with trying to fit it into an hour time frame. But still, making a top in an hour and half or so is great and you can think of a design during breakfast and go in that exact top out for lunch.

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Kako je kroj jednostavan može ga se brzo sastaviti. Vidjela sam nekoliko žena koje su ga izradile unutar sat vremena. Ja nisam član tog kluba. Često napravim grešku ionako, a kada bi se trudila stisnuti sve unutar sat vremena ne znam s čime bi na kraju završila. Ali ako napravite dolčevitu unutar sat i pol vremena ili dva sata to je i dalje odličan osjećaj. Možete se sjetiti ideje za doručak i do vremena ručka već imate gotovu dolčevitu. 

 

dav

 

I made one plane in a rusty orange, one in blue and white stripes and one grey with black polka dots. They are all great to combine with other separates and that is what I love about it. I mostly wear it tucked in as I like it better that way. And I love how good they look with a blazer – comfortable and classy at the same time. I mean, if a 077 agent can wear one you know it will take you places.

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Do sada sam napravila tri verzije dolčevite: hrđavo narančastu, bijelo plavu s prugicama i sivu s crnim točkicama. Sve tri su mi odlične za kombinaciju s ostalim odjevnim predmetima iz ormara. Uglavnom ih nosim nagurane u hlače, tako mi se više sviđa silueta. I odlično izgleda u kombinaciji sa sakoom – ugodno i elegantno u isto vrijeme. Ako agent 007 može nositi dolčevitu onda znate da ste na pravom putu.

The first bond poster… make sure crop shows a head shot with the turtleneck
You see? / Vidite?

Image source / Izvor slike: 007

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My three versions / Tri verzije iz moje radione
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All hems are finished with a zig zag stitch / svi rubovi završeni su zig zag šavom
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Tucked in is how it goes into the wild / Na zrak izlazi nagurana u hlače

 

My rusty version is made in a thin jersey. It is very comfortable but the jersey is so thin you can speculate of all that is going underneath, because every line shows. So I like to combine it with a blazer over it to cover that. I am proud to be style matching with the one and only Zach Galifianakis in Dinner for Schmucks – green blazer over rusty turtleneck! He actually rocks the turtleneck as a shirt front over a t-shirt. Maybe I should evolve to that level – it would sure keep my fabric from distorting in the wash after every wear. And that might be something I could actually do under an hour. Hm….

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Narančastu verziju sa izradila u tankoj džersej tkanini. Ugodna je ali je tkanina toliko tanka da se kroz nju nazire svaka crta. Zato ju volim kombinirati sa sakoom. Ponosno nosim tu kombinaciju otkako sam shvatila da Zach Galifianakis u Večeri s idiotom (Dinner for Schmucks) nosi istu takvu kombinaciju. On čak nosi dolčevitu kao umetak preko obične majice kratkih rukava. Možda bi i ja trebala probati taj stil –  to bi svakako duže sačuvalo tkaninu zbog manjeg broja pranja. Tako bi možda i mogla sašiti odjevni predmet unutar sat vremena. Hm…..

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Elusive clour but causal style – hence the arm on waist pose / neuhvatljiva boja ali opušten stil – stoga poza ruke na stuku

Dinner for Schmucks Zach Galifianakis

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Style Duo / stilski dvojac

Image source / Izvor slike: 12

The polka dot one was the first I made and it is from a ponte roma fabric. It is warmer but since ponte roma does not stretch as much I get it a bit harder over my head. Not great when wearing bigger earrings but not something I could not live with. Just need to take the earrings of first. That is my tip of the day. But it goes to show that you can use different jersey weights for this one.

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Prva koju sam napravila bi je ova siva verzija s crnim točkama tzv polka dot u debljoj džersej tkanini zvanoj Ponte Roma. Ta tkanina ima nešto slabiji postotak rastezljivosti i teža je, ali zbog toga i toplija za hladne zimske dane. Zbog slabije rastezljivosti malo ju teže prevlačim preko glave, ali to nije nešto s čime ne bi mogla živjeti. Samo trebam prvo skinuti naušnice. Ali upravo to pokazuje kao je moguće kombinirati razne vrste džersej tkanine za ovaj kroj.

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Cool thicker fabric goes with cross over pose / kul deblja tkanina ide sa prekriženim rukama

 

The blue and white striped one is made of a lightweight jersey that is so soft, but unfortunately started to show the age a bit too soon. Not that it is old, but the surface is peeling. I fixed it with a simple shaving trick I saw online somewhere. I think I will have to do it often to keep it decent looking. It is always good to go with a higher quality fabric but you live and learn. I find that I like to spend time making something I will have and wear for a longer period of time so spending more money on something I will wear 30 times makes more sense than making something cheaper that might not last 10 wears. But when I was buying this fabric I really thought it was a better quality one. So I decided to enjoy it while it last and buy smarter next time.

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Prugasta verzija u plavoj i bijeloj boji je izrađena u tanjoj mekanoj tkani koja nažalost pokazuje godine sa nošenjem. Nije stara ali se površina tkanine ljušti nakon trenja. Uspjela sam to popraviti s ‘depilacijom’ površine, trik koji sam nekad davno vidjela negdje na internetu. Mislim da ću to morati češće raditi da bi dolčevita izgledala pristojno. Zato je bolje uvijek raditi s kvalitetnijom tkaninom. Shvatila sam da radije potrošim više novaca na ono što će trajati 30 nošenja nego izraditi komad u lošijoj tkanini koja neće doživjeti ni 10 nošenja. Ali kada sam kupovala ovu tkaninu mislila sam da će biti kvalitetnija, tako da je uvijek moguće pogriješiti. Pa sam odlučila uživati u njoj dok traje i kupovati pametnije idući put.

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casually social wave /  Opušten društveni pozdrav

 

I think this is one of many great jersey patterns out there that make you feel better during cold grey winter days. I like the warmth and love the funnel neck gives me and I plan of making more of these next winter.

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Mislim da je ovo jedan od brojnih odličnih krojeva napravljen za džersej tkanine koji vam olakšavaju hladne i sive zimske dane. Volim toplinu koju mi daje tkanina oko vrata i planiram izraditi još komada iduće zime.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

 

Ana

 

 

 

 

 

Me and Flint / Ja i Flint – pants pattern by Megan Nielsen

Today I will talk a little bit about my big love for the Flint pants pattern from Megan Nielsen. I fell in love with it when I first saw it, and I bought the pattern on the release date.

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Danas ću malo pisati o velikoj ljubavi prema kroju hlača Flint od  Megan Nielsen. Čim je kroj objavljen zaljubila sam se u njegove linije i detalje i kupila ga na dan objave.

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I made two cropped versions so far and I want to make more shorts for summer. The pattern is really easy to assemble. At first you might need some imagination regarding construction of the crossover closure, but when you make the first pair everything makes perfect sense. We are talking about pants with no zippers after all! The two closure options are either two buttons or a combination of a button and waist tie. A waist tie! I just love this details and as much as I believe in clean lines and minimalism on one hand I do not see myself making a pair without the bow. It is just too dang beautiful and different to skip.

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Do sada sam napravila dvije duže verzije, ali i nekoliko kratkih hlača za ljeto je na listi želja. Kroj je vrlo jednostavan za izradu. Na prvu treba nešto mašte da bi shvatili kako se hlače zatvaraju u struku, ali kada izradite prvi par sve bude savršeno jasno. Ipak pričamo o hlačama bez ciferšlusa! Dvije opcije za zatvaranje hlača su dva gumba ili kombinacija gumba i mašne. Mašna! Toliko volim ovaj detalj i koliko god vjerovala u ljepotu jednostavnog dizajna i linija mislim da neću moći izraditi ovaj kroj bez mašne. Ipak je taj detalj nekako poseban. 

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Their first outing at a wedding / njihov prvi izlazak na vjenčanju

 

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Backstage view / pogled odostraga

 

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Rust crepe version that does not look so rust in the pictures unfortunately / Hrđavo narančasta verzija koja nažalost ne izgleda toliko hrđavo narančasta na slikama

I made both versions is a crepe fabric and I love both colours. First pair I made was in a deep green medium weight crepe and the fabric is perfect for it. It has just the right weight to fall nicely and keep shape but also light enough to dance around you feet while moving. I love wearing them and how comfortable they feel.
The second pair is made in a lightweight rust coloured crepe. The colour s just beautiful and I was into it during fall when I was looking at copper like leaves all around. But the weight of the fabric means they swish around way more (like a no. 1 disco hit) and they do not hold the shape as good, specially around the hem. I have to admit that I do ship hand sewing finishes when I can use my machine, but it might have been a smarter move to do it the right way for this pair. The machine finish makes them look a bit like a home-made garment and not hand-made, which we all know is not the way to go. I might go back to that and revise it to make them a bit more presentable. But I still wear them and the bow looks spectacular in this fabric. Just saying.

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Obje verzije sam napravila u krep tkanini i ne mogu se odlučiti koja boja mi je draža. prvi par sam napravila u tamno zelenoj krep tkanini srednje težine i to je odličan izbor za ovaj kroj. Tkanina ima točno pravu dozu težine tako da lijepo pada i pritom drži formu, ali u pokretu ipak pleše oko nogu. Volim ih nositi i toliko su ugodne.
Drugi par sam izradila iz laganog krepa u boji hrđe. To je bilo na jesen kada sam stalno bila okružena otpalim lišćem i ta boja mi nije izlazila iz glave. Kako je ova tkanina lakša hlače puno više plešu (kao najbolji disko hit) i zbog toga ne drže najbolje formu, pogotovo kod ruba. Moram priznati da kada postoji mogućnost završiti rub mašinom uvijek biram tu opciju ispred ručnog šivanja. Ali mislim da bi za ovaj par ručno šivanje bila sretnija opcija pa je to nešto čemu ću se možda ponovo vratiti i popraviti. To je razlog zbog kojeg ova verzija ispada više kao da je kućne izrade, a ne ručne izrade (što nije baš preporučeni recept za dobar stil). Ali svejedno ih nosim a mašna jednostavno izgleda spektakularno u ovoj tkanini. Samo kažem.

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These were the first pants I ever made and I did not have to do any changes to the pattern. I think they are a great option for the first time pant makers out there since they are not overly fitted in the behind area. They are somewhat fitted in the waist with darts in the front and back and you can play with these to get them just right. They skim your hips like silk dreams and fall down. I think this is a very flattering look and great to learn the basic construction of pants before continuing with other more fitted patterns.

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Ovo su prve hlače koje sam napravila i kroj nisam trebala dodatno prilagođavati. Mislim da je ovo odličan izbor za sve djevice po pitanju izrade hlača jer kroj nije uzak u stražnjem dijelu. Hlače su uske u području struka gdje ih lako možete oblikovati po svom tijelu, a lijepo padaju preko kukova. Ovo je odličan kroj za upoznavanje sa izradom i konstrukcijom hlača. 

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They even make garages smile! / Čak izmamljuju osmijeh i na garažama!

I do get compliments when I wear them and funnily enough I was told that these pants are becoming my signature style. The truth is that all compliment go fast forward to Megan. So thank you Megan for jazzing up my style, it is much appreciated!

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Dobila sam komplimente za ove hlače i čak mi je rečeno da su one postale moj potpis. Ali svo komplimenti idu ravno Megan za odličan kroj. Hvala Megan što si digla moj stil na viši nivo!

dav

 

I will be making more shorts as well for the summer. The pattern can be made in one day, but me being not that fast when it comes to sewing I tend to do them in two or three afternoons. But shorts could be my do-it-in-one-day pattern. We shall see, I will report back.

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Sašit ću i par kratkih hlača za ljeto. Hlače se mogu sašiti u jednom danu ali kako ja nisam najbrža po pitanju šivanja obično ih izradim u dva ili tri popodneva. Ali kratke hlače bi mogle biti brže i moj novi jednodnevni projekt. Izvještaj slijedi.

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Thank you for stopping by!

Hvala na čitanju!

 

Ana

Capsule Wardrobe

I am sewing for about 6 years now but it has been last 2 years that I took it up a notch and started making garments I have not tried before and making sure they fit into my wardrobe. Making a dress feels like Christmas every day but since it is not Christmas every day I end up with them clogging up my wardrobe more and more and not getting them out as much. And this is where the capsule wardrobe concept comes to the rescue.

Capsule wardrobe means you make garments that fit into your style AND lifestyle. It is not just about making but making garments you will ware and be able to mix and match with other garments in you wardrobe. It is about make and wear equally.

I realised that I am missing shirts, a coat, pants (I LOVE pants). So I am making them one by one. Some of them are more consuming makes in terms of time but are the ones that will make me most happy and will get the most sun and rain time outside. And that is what counts for me in the end. I am at the beginning now but hope to make 2018 based around it. So stay tuned for more.

I am starting with the Sew Over It My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break eBook

I started with this few months ago and posted a little bit about it on Instagram under the hashtag #plandasewssoicitybreak but will cover it in more detail here in upcoming weeks. Hope you will join me!

Happy Holidays!