The Anna Mac Coat – pattern by Sew Over It

When Sew Over It released their second e-book I was playing all hard to get and was telling myself that I do not need it. How long do you think I was able to stick with it? I think it was for about a week. Bravo Ana!

But seriously, when you have a pattern like this mac in it AND it is called Anna (for those who do not know me my name is Ana!), what else do I need to say? Now I just need to work on making more pattens form the book because there are some lovely ones in there.

P1070732

I love a good collar and this mac really does have it. It is the right amount of statement yet not too much. Well, for me at least. The one thing I am not too excited about is a sideseam pocket so I decided to skip them and put on patch pockets. And I love how they look and the vibe they give. I feel either safari chick or 70s detective cool. I think I prefer the second one more. The second change I did is shorten it to the hip level. Originally it was supposed to be a mid-calf length but boy did that look bad. So chop, chop to save what I could.

P1070737-03

I had to make the sway back adjustment. I make this adjustment on most top patterns so I should have guessed I would need it with this one as well. But I was in a hurry to have this jacket done and skipped that step. So, of course, I had a lot of gaping in the lower back. Since the whole thing was already cut and sewed I made the adjustment directly on the garment. I simply pinned the excess fabric where the gaping was and took in about 4 cm in the middle of the back going to 0 cm at side seams. Good, this is that I have the belt which covers it up because the seam is visible.

P1070819
On-site sway back adjustment

Remember how I said I was in a hurry to have this jacket finished? Well, by the time I got to the finishing touches it all just sat there a few weeks. I am sure it had to do with the weather turning colder so I knew I would not be wearing it out any time soon. But I can’t wait for Spring! Anyhow, I finished the hems at one point and now it is ready for a walk in the park. Or city. Or safari excursion in a 70’s detective show!

P1070745-01

P1070733

The fabric is a home decor fabric. It is a bit on the lighter side but it is so satisfying how crisp it is after ironing. I liked the oatmeal colour and knew right there it would be a perfect mac.

P1070761-01

Thank you for reading,

Ana

P1070730

 

White Persephone Pants – yes or no?

White pants. Dream or doom? I love white pants on others and have always dreamt of having a pair. One step closer to my dream style and wardrobe. But how long will they remain white? Is this just a pipe dream?

Who knows, but I finished them and I am happy with how they look and fit. I made my pants! These are not the first pants I made (I already blogged about first Persephone’s here) but when you get used to making something and it starts being the norm you forget to celebrate it and stepping back to think – I made these freaking pants! Not many people can say that and I always love how well I know my clothes – from materials, construction, the thread I used, steps I did to get to the finish line and how each and every garment has an origin story I was part of from start to finish. Does that not make it even more special? I think it does and I wanted to tell that to myself today.

P1070843

So, white pants. A good idea? No idea, but let’s try it. I will probably not ever feel 100% secure sitting in them just for the phobia I will sit on something and get them dirty, even if I am in a totally safe indoor environment. But I am pushing myself to do what I want and live my life how I want and if one small step of wearing white pants will get me there than that one small step in white pants will be a big step in getting my butt where I want it to be 😀

P1070849

Sewing has opened a new world to me, not only in craft and knowledge I did not have before but in freeing my mind and allowing me to wear colour first and now white. I never wore either in my teenage years. It was too visible and too out there for me. But I learned that wearing the garments I create makes me feel more confident. And I like that. So white pants it is. I just hope I won’t be too conscious of being in white pants, although I understand some settling in will have to happen in the beginning.

P1070852

Pattern and Construction

Now for the technical part of it all. The pattern is the Persephone Pants by Anna Allen Clothing. I already used this pattern before and this is my 5th pair, so I was confident in constructing them. The only difference this time was that I used stretch denim. This pattern is drafted for non-stretch fabrics, so using stretch meant I had to think about what size to make it in. I made my earlier pants in size 2 in the waist and grading to 4 in the hips, although this changed a bit with each pair I made. Here I knew I would have some gapping or just bad fit if I went with the same size so I decided to construct them in the smallest size available (this meant going one size down in waist and two in the hip). In the end, this did end up being a bit too tight so I made the seam allowance smaller in the inner leg seam by 0.5 cm. This gave me more room and now they are tight but comfortable.

P1070841

The construction of this pattern is straightforward and it was the first pants pattern I ever made that was successful. So if you are reading this and are thinking of making a pair for the first time – go for it. There is nothing to lose but a few hours that will teach you a lot in the long run. The pattern instructions are great and with illustrations, you can make these pants with no problem. If  I did it so can you.

P1070838

 

The fabric is the 10oz Cone Mills S-gene stretch denim in white from Threadbare Fabrics my sister got me when she was in the US a while ago. It is a great fabric but be ready it will show every bump (but also almost every pair of underwear in your wardrobe). I have to see how to wear these bad boys or I have to get an invisible pair of underwear – do these exist? It is not really see-through but it is a white fabric after all. I was inspired by Charlie and Beck to use this fabric and basically copied them all the way. Thank you, ladies, for all the inspiration!

 

And one last thing I adore about these is I got to sneak some colour in after all – with buttons hidden in the fly! They are all the same size as required in the pattern but they are all different colors and were left all alone in my button stash. So it was ideal to use them in this project and do a bit of stash busting – my favorite activity after sewing!

IMG_20200105_173346_956

Overall I am in love with these pants and happy I pushed my self forward with getting a more stand out piece into my wardrobe. I am now off to see how long I can go without getting coffee, food or mud on them. Wish me luck!

P1070860

Thank you for reading!

Ana

 

 

Kalle shirt – pattern by Closet Case Patterns

I love wearing shirts more than I love sewing them, but I definitely do not like ironing them. But that is the irony of life, ey? I love a crisp collar, buttons (yet buttonholes being probably one of the reasons why shirts are not my favorite from the garment sewing realm) and also how a shirt lifts up an outfit. I feel more “ready” when wearing one, isn’t that interesting? I just look down and think to myself – sh** I a wearing a shirt, I can do this!

P1070681

I was looking at all the Kalle’s on Instagram and wanted to do my own version for a while. I finally decided to make it and use up this remnant I had from an earlier project I still have not blogged about (there seems to be more of these sneaky bastards by now, I should flex my fingers on the keyboard more). It is a viscose fabric I got a while ago in a local shop. It irons very well, let me tell you. If only all the shirts were like this (please?).

P1070682

The pattern comes in three variations and I decided to make the cropped shirt. Other variations are tunic and dress. I made a dress before and love, love, love it (and wrote about it on Minerva Crafts blog). From back then I knew I needed a swayback adjustment so had this already adjusted on the pattern. This adjustment is a saver for me – you do not know how many bad fitting tops I made over the years before I found out about this little gem.

P1070709

 

P1070711

The hem is finished with a facing. This little piece of fabric gave me so much headache during construction. The problem was probably in the fact that I cut out the pattern sometime in April and had it lying on the table until October so this pattern piece stretched out. My bad, but boy did I lose my mind a few times. Sewed it two times with no luck and too many puckers so left it for a week. Then I came back to it and just figured I should lay the bodice piece over the facing and just cut the excess fabric from the facing that stretched out. This worked a treat and I could sew the two together with no problem. Victory. But this part is a bit tricky to sew, especially for any fabric that has a mind of its own (read: slippery).

P1070684

This was my first time sewing a hidden button placket. This also boggled my mind for a while until I realized I was holding it the other way around than it is instructed. I have bright moments like this from time to time, don’t be jealous. Don’t use your head and you can have them, too. Easy peasy. Ok, back to the construction. The other parts of shirt construction are easy and straightforward. The instructions are great and there is also extra help on the CCP blog to hold your hand.

P1070690

I realized that the collar stands really high on this pattern. I had not really noticed it from looking at the pictures but when I made it, it felt higher than I would like. At first, it felt strange. But after wearing it, it felt good and not constraining in any way. And there is always the option to wear it open and I like to have both options at hand.

P1070702

The front bodice is really cropped so good thing I have several high waisted pants in my wardrobe by now so I have something to wear it with. I think they look really good together, don’t you think? I am interested to see if I can also combine it with a skirt, not sure I have seen a combo like that on the old gram so far.

P1070722

I now have only the tunic variation of this pattern left untouched. I do have a fabric I want to make it in, I only need time. From my experience, it will take a long time to get it out and then a few months more to get it on the blog. But patience will bring me far, right?

P1070712

Thank you for reading,

Ana

Burda Style Achromatic Cardigan

I walked by a local fabric store one day and stopped in my tracks. There was this fabric in the window that called my name. It was modern yet somehow different, double-sided and so cool. It was black and white with many faces looking back at me.


Prolazila sam ispred lokalnog dućana s tkaninama jedan dan i zaustavila se na mjestu. U izlogu je bila tkanina koja me zvala. Bila je moderna, a opet nekako drugačija s duplom stranom i tako kul. Bila je crno-bijela i s puno lica koja su me gledala. 

20191013_102618

I knew I wanted to make it into a cardigan with the black side on the outside and white peeking out in the front. I instantly had a pattern in mind and after a bit of an internal assessment (read: hours of not being able to get it out of my head), I went for it. It is a Burdastyle pattern I already used before so I had it already traced out, which was great. It is the 117 B from 8/2011 magazine.


Znala sam da ju želim pretvoriti u nekakvu vestu s crnom stranom s vanjske strane, a da bijela strana na mjestima viri. Odmah sam imala kroj u glavi koji sam htjela koristiti i nakon malo mozganja (čitaj: satima nisam nikako mogla izbaciti sliku iz glave), za njega sam se i odlučila. Koristila sam kroj 117 B iz Burda Style časopisa 8/2011. Već sam ga ranije koristila tako da sam ga već imala iscrtanog i spremnog što je uvijek super vijest.

 

20191013_173628

The construction was fast and straightforward. Usually, I keep away from Burda patterns because of their sizing and ease built into them, but this cardigan is supposed to be loose and roomy so it was a perfect choice. The cardigan is constructed with a zig-zag stitch and all hems are first zig-zagged and then turned inside and finished with a straight stitch.


Izrada je bila brza i jednostavna. Inače se držim podalje od Burdinih krojeva zbog njihovih veličina i toga što im krojevi uvijek imaju dodatnog lufta, ali obzirom da je ova vesta ionako velika i široka to mi nije smetalo. Sašila sam ju sa cik-cak šavom, a sve rubove sam uz cik-cak šav dovršila presavijenim i ravnim šavom.

20191013_173631(0)

The fabric is a real mistery. It is a sort of a knit and has a bit of stretch but it was unraveling at the raw edges which does not happen with a true knit. That is why I had to finish all edges with a zig-zag stitch before it was all gone 🙂
But the print makes up for it so I did not mind.


Tkanina je pravi misterij. To je nekakav džersej i sitno je rastezljiv ali se rasplitao na rubovima što nije tipično za džersej tkanine. Zbog toga sam trebala sve rubove završiti cik-cak šavom prije nego se sve rasplelo 🙂
Ali s ovim printom sam sve to zanemarila.

20191013_173632

 

20191013_173630

This is a short post with not much to report but the fact I love this cardigan crazy amount! With this single garment, a basic outfit becomes so much better and I feel great wearing it. I think this is one of the fastest turnarounds form buying the fabric to making the final garment. And that does not happen a lot.


Ovo je kratki ali slatki post u kojem nemam što puno za pisati osim toga koliko sam ludo zadovoljna s ovom vestom. S njom i najobičnija kombinacija postaje zanimljivija. Ovo je svakako bila jedna od najbržih izrada od kupljene tkanine do finalnog komada. A to se ne događa često.

20191013_173637
Thank you for reading!
—————
Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Zadie Jumpsuit review – pattern by Paper Theory Patterns

I made my first jumpsuit! Well, ahem….I made it in June but I had a long break from blogging so I am only writing about it now. But better late than never, right? So let’s get to it then.

_____________________

Sašila sam svoj prvi kombinezon! Pa, hm….sašila sam ga još u lipnju, ali kako sam imala podužu pauzu od bloga, tek sad pišem o tome. Ali bolje ikad nego nikad, jel da? Ajmo se onda odmah baciti na detalje. 

20190620_194650

When Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns came out everyone went nuts for it. I thought it was interesting but that it wasn’t for me. But then I kept seeing all the Zadies popping up on Instagram and when I saw firs few with a bit of ease taken out I was into it. I got the pattern and went straight to it. What was the right push at the right moment was the Sew Together for Summer Challenge on Instagram. It is a challenge run by lovely ladies Monika, Sarah and Suzy with a different theme every year. This year it was a jumpsuit – challenge accepted!

_______________________

Kada se pojavio Zadie kombinezon od Paper Theory Patterns, svi su poludili. Meni se činio interesantnim, ali ne kao nešto što je za mene. Ali onda su se počeli pojavljivati postovi o Zadie na Instagramu sa svih strana i kada sam vidjela prve kombinezone kod kojih su cure maknule višak materijala shvatila sam da to je kroj za mene. I odmah sam se bacila na posao. Pravi poticaj u pravo vrijeme bio je izazov Sew Together for Summer Challenge koji na Instagramu organiziraju Monika, Sarah i Suzy. Izazov svake godine ima drugu temu, a ove godine je to bio kombinezon – izazov prihvaćen!

 

20190620_194408

The challenge lasts for a full month of June but I sewed mine in two days at the end of the challenge finishing it on the day we were out the door for a short summer break. There is nothing like last-minute sewing. As there were already many Zadies out there I was able to see what others were commenting about the fit and how they dealt with it. I did not like the ease that is in the pattern, especially in the bottom part, so I knew I would be taking it in. What many others also mentioned is that the crotch seam is a bit too low. So, with all the wisdom from the online sewing community (thank you everyone!), I decided on what to do with mine.

______________________

Izazov traje cijeli lipanj, a ja sam svoj kombinezon sašila u dva dana. Dovršila sam ga ujutro na dan kada smo išli na kratki ljetni odmor na more. Nema ništa kao šivanje u zadnji čas. Kako je već puno cura dovršilo svoje Zadie kombinezone mogla sam pročitati dosta o tome koje su one promjene radile kroju za bolji fit. Kako mi se nije sviđala originalna širina u kroju znala sam da ću ga sužavati. Ono što je dosta cura još spominjalo je nisko međunožje. I tako sa skupljenom svom mudrosti online šivaće zajednice (hvala svima!), odlučila sam što trebam napraviti sa krojem.

20190620_194426

ALTERATIONS

Based on my measurements I cut out the smallest size, which is two sizes smaller from my waist and hip measurements and one size smaller from my bust measurement. On top of that, I took in the side seams by 1 cm on both the bodice and pants. To raise the crotch I shortened the rise by 4 cm on the pants pattern pieces and took out 1 cm from the bottom of the bodice pieces. And this was the perfect amount. Next time I might transfer 1 or 2 cm from bodice to the pants to raise the waistline, but it also works as is. I just prefer a higher waistline on me.

___________________

Prema mojim mjerama izrezala sam najmanju veličinu iz kroja. Ona je manja za dva broja od broja za moj struk i kukove i jedan broj za prsa. Uz to, dodatno sam sa strane hlača i gornjeg dijela kroja maknula 1 centimetar. Da bi podignula međunožje, skratila sam vrh hlača za 4 cm i gornji dio za 1 cm. I tih 5 centimetara je bilo taman. Idući put ću vjerojatno pomaknuti struk više gore. U redu je i ovako kako je sada, ali osobno više preferiram visoki struk.

20190620_194440

The fabric is a mystic fabric I bought in Vietnam. It is some sort of linen but it definitely has other fibers mixed in it. I should have done a burn test to see how it would react. if I find some scraps somewhere I will do that. The fabric behaved well under both the sewing machine and iron and I had no trouble with it.

____________________

Materijal je mistična tkanina iz Vijetnama. Trebao bi biti lan, ali sam sigurna da ima i drugih stvari izmiješanih u sastavu. Trebala sam napraviti test paljenja da vidim kako se ponaša. Ako nađem neke ostatke tkanine to ću svakako napraviti. Tkanina se ponašala dobro pod mašinom i peglom i nisam imala s njom nikakvih problema.

20190620_194424

The pattern is a beaut and it does not gape!! If the adjustments are done right and you wrap yourself in it, you (and your body parts) will stay securely wrapped all day long. It is also a very comfortable garment to wear so that is a big plus. I can really recommend this pattern. The only downside to it is the bathroom situation. You know, getting butt naked in a public toilet – a girl’s dream. Oh, and one fun fact for the end – I won one of the prizes from the Sew Together for Summer challenge for this make and I could not be happier! Thank you ladies – can’t wait for next year’s theme!

__________________________

Kroj je ljepotica i ništa ne zjapi na prsima! Ali su prepravke dobro napravljene i dobr se zamotate, vi (i dijelovi vašeg tijela) ostat ćete cijeli dan sigurno zamotani. Jako je udoban za nositi što je isto veliki plus. Stvarno mogu preporučiti ovaj kroj. Jedina mana je odlazak na wc. Gola guzica (i ne samo to) u javnom wc-u: san svake cure. I jedna zanimljivost za kraj – osvojila sam jednu od nagrada iz Sew Together for Summer izazova i ne mogu biti sretnija! Hvala cure – jedva čekam iduću godinu i novu temu!

20190620_194636

Have you made this pattern? I am planning on doing an autumn/winter version in another mystic fabric I have in my stash, this time with long sleeves.

_____________________

Jeste sašili već ovaj kroj? Ja planiram sašiti jesenku/zimsku verziju u još jednoj mističnoj tkanini koju imam doma, ovaj put s dugim rukavima. 

20190620_194409

20190620_194430

20190620_194652

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Tilly and the Buttons Freya dress pattern duo

Tilly and the Buttons released book Stretch last spring. Few months later and there it was on my shelf. Few more months and I have two Freya dresses in my closet.
There are few more designs in the book but this one was a great start to use up some fabrics from my stash.

20181105_101421(0)

The first one I made from this lightweight jersey I got on eBay year ago or maybe more. It feels so good to use a fabric that you have been looking at for too long. I got it without a project in mind and as it was so lightweight I never knew what would be the right pattern for it. It was time to take a bit of a risk and hope it would live a happy life as a Freya. And it does.

The push I needed to do it was a great challenge run by Chantelle @i_seam_sew_happy_xx and Lou @oh_liverpool_lou over on Instagram called #stitchedwithatwist. The idea behind it was to use any pattern and hack it in any way that rocks your boat – embroidery, adding details, changing pattern design a bit….. As this jersey is so lightweight, I thought it would work great for bigger dreamy sleeves and coincidentally lovely Athina Kakou released a hack on how to make bishop sleeves for a regular sleeve over on her blog. I loved it, so I knew I wanted to try it out. If you like it as well go over on her blog. She has many other hacks available as well and if you are still looking for a great jersey pattern she has one with great reviews – the Sheona dress/top so do check it out.

20181105_101457
Another hack I made was to lengthen the dress to midi. I am very inspired by long autumnal dresses and wanted that feel of someone so cool as Florence form the Florence and the Machine. I mean that is as cool as one can get in my book. I lengthened the dress at lengthen or shorten line that is part of the pattern (not from the hem). I did not want it to be too wide at the bottom so this seemed to be the right way.

20181105_101440

20181105_101448

20181105_102010
Bishop sleeve goodness

The second dress is this ultimate lemon dress for dark winter days. It is the vitamin C for your sight. I got this Art Gallery fabric from Minerva crafts last year and it is the softest. I have not hacked this one for the challenge but I did make some alterations to the pattern as well. I also lengthened the hem on this one but this time to the knee level. I did it the same way as with the first version. But I had a problem with access fabric in the lower back which cried for a sway back adjustment. So I tried that one out and I guess it helped but there is still some extra fabric. Not sure why and if maybe I need to make a bigger adjustment but I was not frugal with it at all. This does mean I now have a seam running down my spine in the centre back but as the fabric is a happy one with random print I do not mind it that much (and it is in the back anyway).

 

20181115_151915

20181115_151936

20181115_151641
picking lemons in a lemon dress, bam!
20181115_152038
after looking at these pictures again I just want to go back on holiday!

New project from the book will probably be a Joni dress but I do need to find a great fabric for it to make the picture in my head a reality.

Until then…..
Thank you for reading!
Ana

Kew Lindo – Nina Lee Kew dress pattern / Nina Lee Kew haljina

The Kew dress by Nina Lee Patterns is a real beauty and I was eyeing it ever since it came out. I was not sure it was really me (although it is my dream wardrobe, just not sure I would wear it as much). So I waited. And waited. And one day I caved and got the pattern. That is how it usually works 😊

________

Kew haljina od Nina Lee Patterns je prava ljepotica i dugo sam ju mjerkala. Nisam bila sigurna da je u potpunosti moj stil (iako tako izgleda moja garderoba iz snova, samo nisam bila sigurna da bi ju u stvarnosti dovoljno nosila). I tako sam čekala. I čekala. Sve dok jednog dana nisam popustila i kupila kroj. Tako to kod mene obično ide 😊

 

20180817_171601

 

I thought about making the dress, but as I am really into separates recently I decided to do the top first and check the fit while I am at it. Top version is not included in the pattern but it is so easy to make. You just measure how long you want your top to be and make the bodice that much longer (with extra 2 cm or so for the hem). Easy peasy.

__________

Razmišljala sam napraviti haljinu, ali kako sam u zadnje vrijeme totalno luda za majicama odlučila sam napraviti top verziju i usput provjeriti jesu li potrebne neke preinake. Top verzija nije uključena u kroj ali je to jednostavno napraviti. Samo trebate izmjeriti koje dužine želite majicu i za toliko produžite kroj gornjeg dijela (plus otprilike 2 centimetra za dovršiti rub). Jednostavnije ne može.

20180817_171600
Combined here with Flint pants pattern by Megan Nielsen / ovdje u kombinaciji s krojem hlača Flint od Megan Nielsen

 

Now the fit – it was ok. That means that it was good but I had some gaping in the back. The back bodice was a bit big in the shoulder area so the neckline stood up. Not good. But I only noticed that when the facing was already sewn and the top was basically done apart from the hem. So I debated with my inner self weather I prefer to take it apart, take it in, redo the facing and stitch it all back together or I want to go the lazy route and try taking it in somehow. Guess which route I choose. Yes, lazy as one can be. So, I opted to make the back darts longer and sewed them all the way up to about 2 cm before the facing and bodice seam. This helped a bit but not 100% and there was still some gaping in the middle back. So finally I added a big dart in the middle and caught both bodice and facing in it. That gave perfect results and it now fits perfectly. This also helped with the front and raised the neckline a bit which I like. And it does not look like a butcher’s work at all and it actually gives a fun detail to the back.

_______________

Kroj haljine mi je odgovarao, ali bila je potrebna manja intervencija. Sve je dobro pristajalo, ali kada sam praktički bila gotova sa svim osim s rubom, primijetila sam da su leđa prevelika i da majica strši u zrak kod vrata. A to nikako nije dobro. U tom trenutku sam debatirala bi li radije rastavila majicu, unjela ju i ponovo zašila nazad ili bi odabrala lijenu verziju i u ovom ju stadiju nekako unjela. Probajte pogoditi za što sam se odlučila. I tako sam išla lijenom rutom (pogodili ste, jel da?) i za početak sam produžila stražnje ušivke prema gore do otprilike 2 cm prije šava. To je malo pomoglo ali nije skroz riješilo problem. Onda sam na sredinu stavila veći ušivak s kojim sam uhvatila glavnu tkaninu i postavu i to je bilo to. Sada majica pristaje odlično, a to je čak i malo podiglo prednji izrez što mi se sviđa. I obzirom da sam išla ljenijom rutom na kraju rezultat uopće nije neuredan i još daje zanimljiv detalj na leđima. Pobjeda.

20180817_171634

 

I omitted the front darts since the fit without them is perfect and with them it was too snug. I hemmed the top after making buttonholes and sewed on the buttons to make it even. I plan to wear it tucked in so wanted to make it a bit longer. That way I can wear it with high waisted trousers or skirts.

________

Prednje ušivke nisam napravila jer nisu bili potrebni. Kada sam ih ušila majica je bila preuska, pa sam se odlučila izbaciti ih iz kroja. Rub sam dovršila nakon izrade rupica za gumbe i postavljanja gumba da bi ga mogla uredno poravnati. Plan mi je nositi ju zataknutu u hlače ili šoseve visokog struka pa sam ju napravila malo dužom.

20180817_171240

 

And the colour of that fabric is everything! It is linen (with viscose I think) and it is gorgeous. I couldn’t leave without it when I saw it in a local shop. It is perfect for this time of year.

_________

Boja tkanine je sve što sam ikad sanjala! To je lan (mislim da ima i malo viskoze) i predivan je. Nisam mogla izići iz dućana bez njega. Boja je odlična za ovo doba godine.

 

20180915_184245 copy
Combined here with Erin skirt pattern by Sew Over It / u kombinaciji s krojem šosa Erin od Sew Over It

20180915_184231(0)20180915_184231

 

Next I plan to make a dress version (all three of them!) and also the skirt. I think they all look great paired with the right fabric. And my wardrobe is more cheerful once again with this new garment, so yey!

 

Iduće planiram napraviti haljinu (sve tri verzije zapravo!) ali i šos. Mislim da sve verzije kroja izgledaju predivno kada se kombiniraju s pravom tkaninom. A moj ormar je još malo sretniji sa sunčanom bojom tako da – jej!

 

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

 

Alder Shirt dress pattern trio – by Grainline studio

I found a new pattern obsession and boy do I love it! Meet the Alder shirt dress pattern by Grainline Studio. I had this pattern in my stash for a while and always wanted to make it soon(ish) but that idea somehow stretched over a year until I finally made it this August. But once I started I loved every minute of making it. It was such a fun sew! So much that I made three of them in two weeks. Obsession overload. But I think I got it out of my system and now I can see other patterns still exist out there 😊

 

Našla sam novu opsesiju i oh, koliko ju volim! Upoznajte Alder košulju haljinu od Grainline Studia. Ovaj kroj imam već dugo vremena i uvijek sam ga planirala uskoro započeti šivati, ali se to nekako otegnulo na godinu dana dok nisam napokon napravila prvu verziju početkom kolovoza.  Ali čim sam počela uživala sam u svakom trenutku ovog projekta. Toliko da sam napravila tri verzije u samo dva tjedna. Pukla kao kokica! Ali mislim da sam sada izbacila to iz sustava i mogu vidjeti da postoje i drugi krojevi osim ovoga 😊

 

 

20180803_102902
The dog is always excited on our photo-shoots / pas je uvijek uzbuđen kod slikanja

 

The pattern has two views and I made all three in the view B with gathered skirt. I think it looks great with that extra volume. I plan to make view A eventually but maybe it will be another year until the new obsession kicks in.

 

Kroj ima dvije verzije. Ja sam napravila tri haljine u verziji B sa skupljenim šosom. Mislim da taj dodatni volumen super izgleda. Planiram napraviti i verziju A u nekom trenutku ali to možda iduće godine kada na red dođe nova opsesija.

————————

The first one I made is from this perfect shade of green cotton shirting. I had this fabric in my stash with this pattern in mind for over a year waiting to start working on it. The fabric was affordable and perfect for a wearable muslin and it turned out perfect. I think this kind of light fabric with a bit of body is perfect for this pattern.

 

Prvu verziju sam napravila u laganom pamuku idealnom za košulje. Tu tkaninu sam imala preko godinu dana spremnu upravo za ovaj kroj. Tkanina je bila jeftina i idealna za probnu verziju, a nabavila sam ju u lokalnom Svijetu Tkanine. Haljina je super ispala i mislim da je ova tkanina odlična obzirom da je lagana, ali istovremeno drži formu.

 

20180803_102950

 

 

The collar construction went like a breeze. I have few collars under my belt by now and although none of them are prefect I do keep my hands busy with practice. One day, the perfect collar will appear in front of me. One day.

The button placket is crisp and clean and I loved making it. The ironing part of the sewing never excites me but with this one it was so much fun to get the straight shapes.

Armholes are finished with bias binding and I used cotton bias binding for the two cotton shirt dresses and a sateen one for the viscose shirt dress.

 

Sastavljanje kragne je išlo bez problema. Do sada sam već napravila nekoliko kragni i iako niti jedna od njih još nije savršena, vježbam pomalo sa svakim projektom. Jednog dana, doći će i ta savršena kragna. Jednog dana.

Izrada lajsne i podliska za zakopčavanje je bila zabavna. Inače me dio peglanja koji je uključen u šivanje baš i ne veseli, ali tu mi je bilo zabavno gledati stvaranje pravilnih linija.

Otvor za ruke je završen s trakom koja se koristi za porubljivanje kružnih rubova. Za dvije haljine napravljene od pamuka sam koristila pamučnu traku, a za haljinu od viskoze sam iskoristila satensku traku.

20180803_102911

Skirt is gathered and sewn onto the bodice. It is a bit tricky to insert on the corner and it includes a gambling moment of snipping into the fabric at one point but it turns great when done. I did that kind of thing before so it was not a problem or new technique but you never know what can happen when you have scissors in your hand and go overboard. But, we sewists are a brave bunch….

 

Šos je skupljen i kao takav našiven na ostatak haljine. Kod šivanja kuta gdje se šos spaja s gornjom i bočnom stranom haljine je nezgodan moment koji podrazumijeva rezanje tkanine koja još nije osigurana sa šavom. Već sam šivala takve krojeve , ali to svaki put aktivira živce jer nikada ne znate granice slobode sa škarama u rukama. Ali mi šivači smo hrabri ljudi…..

————–

I made so many buttonholes I am dizzy with counting. And choosing the buttons was a whole new story. I asked everyone over on Instagram what they thought and when the results came in they leaned towards my favourite buttons – vintage turquoise ones. Thank you for voting everyone!

Napravila sa toliko otvora za gumbe da više niti ne brojim. Odabir gumba je isto bio problem za sebe. Na Instagramu sam pitala koje gube da odaberem jer se nisam mogla odlučiti. Bilo je puno glasova i na kraju su vodili gumbi prema kojima sa i sama naginjala najviše – vintage tirkizni gumbi. Hvala svima na glasanju!

20180802_133802

20180802_133743

 

The second dress I made in the Cotton + Steel fabric that I also got with this pattern in mind. Yep, also a year ago. Ain’t I a Speedy Gonzales. Anyway, the fabric does not look as good on photos as it does in real life. The fabric is a beaut and works well with this pattern. I added ties at the waist where skirt and bodice side seam starts. It think it adds more life and definition to the dress in this fabric.

 

Drugu haljinu sam napravila u Cotton + Steel viskozi koju sam isto nabavila radi ovog kroja. Tako je, isto prije godinu dana. Baš sam Speedy Gonzales. Uglavnom, tkanina puno bolje izgleda u živo nego na slikama. Predivna je i odlično paše na ovaj kroj haljine. Na ovu verziju sam dodala vezice na bočnom spoju suknje i prednjeg dijela haljine da ju mogu zavezati u struku. To daje više života haljini kod ove lepršave tkanine.

 

20180810_151705

20180818_173943

20180818_173938

20180818_173758

20180817_173634

 

The third one is I think my favourite one and it makes me so happy. I got this lemon fabric back at the beginning of spring on my trip to Vietnam. The fabric works so well for this pattern. It is such a happy dress and I feel great wearing it.

 

Treća verzija mi je najdraža i baš me uveseljava. Ovu limun tkaninu sam kupila početkom proljeća u Vijetnamu. Mislim da odlično paše na ovaj kroj. Ovo je baš vesela haljina i super se osjećam u njoj.

 

20180816_182728

20180816_182817

20180816_182814

20180816_182815

20180816_182807

 

Which one is your favourite?

I definitely plan to make the view A with V neck hack Grainline has on their blog as a tutorial.

 

Koja je vama najdraža?

Definitivno planiram napraviti i verziju A kroja s V izrezom za koju tutorial Grainline ima na svom blogu.

 

 

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

In The Folds meets Peppermint Magazine: the review of Wide Leg Pants and Ruffle Sleeve top patterns

I would like to start by saying that these two patterns are free. We all love free stuff, but when someone puts so much good work into it I am really grateful they are free and considering that they are both so well drafted. They are In the Folds patterns after all.

The patterns are available through the Peppermint Magazine. I knew they were free but always assumed you needed some subscription to the magazine to get the patterns for free. But no people, they are free for you to go over there and get them! Wowzers!

_____________

So lets start with the pants. I have a feeling you want to read about them first.

They are high waisted wide-leg pants that are so in fashion right now. They have a zip fly, big front pockets and you can make them in all sorts of hem lengths. I made mine in brown 100% linen fabric from a local store bought recently. This maybe was one of the fastest transitions from 2D fabric to 3D garment in my sewing room – only about a week!

Based on the finished garment measurements I cut size B in the waist and sized up to C in hips and the fit is great.

20180701_161626
Me: Gala, camera is the other way; Gala: why are we standing here?

 

The pattern instructions did have mistakes and were confusing in some parts, but overall are clear and easy to follow. Some pattern pieces are connected wrong to the instructions. For example, when you have to insert the zip fly cover it uses the name of that pattern piece but the number in the bracket that points you to the pattern piece is of the zip fly which is a different pattern piece. I have to mention at this point that this was my first time sewing any sort of fly and yes, it was confusing, but reading it over few times and with help of the pictures within instructions (which are correct) I figured it out and made perfectly good looking fly. If you have a fly under your belt from any project before you should have no problem. Just give yourself the time to go through the instructions before sewing these steps. And remember you got the pattern for free.

The pattern has no mistakes and is drafted beautifully. The fit is great! I made the pattern as is without any modifications and chose my size based on the finished garment measurements.

 

20180701_161630(0)
no Gala, we are pretending to walk this way!

 

These are the second pair of pants I ever made. First pair were the Megan Nielsen Flint pants which have a looser crotch fit, so I was worried these might need some more work. But they fit perfectly. Now I am on my third pants pattern and it is the Lander pants from True Bias. Just for reference for those who made the later, I will need to make adjustments there because the crotch curve is killing me (yeah, not comfortable and sitting is out of the question). So you can sort of imagine the crotch situation relation between the patterns. The crotch curve on the Wide-Leg Pants is bigger by about 1 centimetre on the front leg piece and by about 2 centimetres on the back leg piece for my size. So that makes a total of 3 centimetres which may not sound much but we all know what a difference that makes.

 

Front pockets are roomy and big enough to hold you phone and more. Perfect! They are not the comfiest to hold your arms in but I think that was not the idea behind the design anyway so I can not blame that on the pattern.

 

20180701_161417(0)

 

The zip fly came easily together. I already mentioned the problematic instructions, but it is an easy straightforward process with many steps. If you follow them and make one by one you end up with a zip fly that works as it is supposed to. And boy am I proud of that one!

 

20180702_165419

 

The pants come with a curved waistband. I always wanted to try that but so far all patterns I used had straight waistbands. The curved one sits so much better with no gaping in the back or anywhere else. Maybe the straight waistband would also be fine as the pants are high waisted and they sit on my waist, but I like this better. I am happy I now have a curved waistband I can use on other pant patterns in the future and not having to draft my own. It is not hard, but it is so much easier when you do not have to. One thing to note is that there is mention of fusing the waistband at the beginning as part of the suggested cutting plans, but no mention of it in the later sewing steps. For me that means it is easy to skip it as I rarely go through cutting plans and I only later saw it was mentioned there. I did not put and interfacing in. I thought about adding it on my own and can not really say anything in my defence about why I did not, but hopefully it will not stretch out (considering it is not straight but curved). I wore it several times already in the first week of making it and it is fine. But for the next pair I would add it just to be on the safe side. Plus you definitely add to the longevity of the pants that way so I would recommend it (even to my old self).

 

There are no back pockets on the pattern and I like it that way. It would be easy to add them but I prefer the clean look without them.

 

20180701_161642
look at her playing along with me! 🙂

 

 

I did not play with the hem length and made it as per pattern. I think it goes great with sandals and is that ‘long-but-not-long’ length while still escaping far enough from the ‘do you have a flood at home’ length. I think shorts would look great as well so I might go and make myself a pair.

 

20180702_115318

_____________________

 

Now lets talk about the Ruffle Sleeve Top. The pattern is so lovely and I have not came across any mistakes within instructions for this one. Also, the pattern comes with instructions for french seams! I love that! That is also one of the things I always wanted to try but never did (I should get better at doing things I want with my sewing). So, when it was part of instructions I thought it was the perfect opportunity to try it out. I love it and I can now say I will definitely use that method for any garments with flowy light fabrics that require that kind of treatment. There are even instructions to french seaming the armholes!

 

20180702_200133

 

I used a cotton fabric for this one so that kind of finish maybe is not the best as it did bulk a bit in places, but not too much. I am still happy I french seamed it all instead of zig zaging my brains out. Well, I guess I was tired by the end and forgot to french seam between the arm and ruffle, but maybe better because of the bulk issue. All hems were turned two times by about 1 cm and sewed with straight stitch.

The fit is great in the shoulders and bust area and then it flares out which is the best for a summer outfit. The only alteration I made was making the bust darts longer by about 8 centimetres (!) because originally they (sadly) did not even reach my bust. But that is the easiest alteration there is and with it the fit is great.

 

20180701_161430

________________

 

I can really recommend both of these patterns and I would happily use both of them again. I keep imagining all the colourful fabrics I can use for them. All the plain colourful pants of the rainbow and print crazy tops in the flowiest of fabrics – the dream!

 

20180701_161422

20180701_161656

20180701_161630
I’m telling you, this dog doesn’t get it

20180701_161702

Thank you for reading!

Ana

Cleo Dungarees / Cleo kombinezon haljina – pattern by Tilly and the Buttons

Dungarees seem to be a must make for many in last year and Cleo certainly is one of the most popular out there. It helps that it is easy and fast to make but also that you do not require too much fabric for it (at least not for the shorter version). I was not really sure about this make at first (and still am getting to know myself with it 😊) but I like it. It is easy and casual so I like how easy it is to get dressed in the morning with Cleo on the menu.

Kombinezon haljine su obavezna stvar na šivaćem stolu kod mnogih ove godine i Cleo je sigurno jedna od najpopularnijih. Tome u prilog sigurno ide to što je jednostavan i brz kroj i ne treba puno materijala za izradu (barem za kraću verziju). U početku nisam bila sigurna što reći za ovaj kroj (i još imam svojih dvojbi), ali sviđa mi se. Jednostavan je i idealan za casual outfite i sviđa mi se lakoća jutarnjeg odijevanja s Cleom.

 

20180516_152852

 

I made the short dress version and used an old light blue denim from my mother’s stash for it. The dress is not very fitted but I did take it in as much as I could to still be able to get it over my head without zip or buttons. I was thinking of fitting it even more and adding some additional opening because on my body with sway back it kind of looks it is hanging from a hanger when looked at from the side. From the front and back it does look as there is somebody in there, so that is fine. I am still thinking about it but am not too keen on sewing zipper or buttonholes so will leave it a bit longer like this. Did anyone else have similar problems? Or is it just me? No? Maybe? That is the only negative thing I could say about this pattern if it even has anything to do with the pattern. I have no idea how to make a sway back adjustment on this kind of garment so….if anyone has any ideas please share them in the comments.

Napravila sam kraću verziju haljine u svijetloplavom traperu koji sam uzela iz maminog ormara jer g on nije planirala koristiti. Haljina nije uska ali sam ju suzila na bočnim šavovima koliko sam mogla, a da ju još uvijek mogu prevući preko glave. Haljina i dalje gledano s boka stoji kao da je na vješalici zbog mojih uvinutih leđa, ali da bi haljinu više suzila trebala bi staviti cif ili gumbe za dodatni otvor. Gledano od naprijed ili natrag izgleda kao da netko je unutar haljine pa je to ok. I dalje razmišljam da ju suzim i dodam cif ili gumbe, ali nisam pretjerano motivirana za to, pa ću još vidjeti kako ju ovako mogu stilizirati. Je li netko imao slične probleme s ovim krojem možda? To je potencijalni jedini negativni komentar koji bi mogla dati ovom kroju, ako je to uopće stvar kroja. Ne znam podesiti stražnju stranu kroja za uvinuta leđa, ali ako itko ima prijedloge slobodno napišite u komentarima.

 

20180630_133720
Topstitching heaven

 

I found the perfect styling option for it and that is with all the shirts. Fitted tops are really not an option for me because of the side view hanger issue. But flowy wider shirts are a great option and I like how that looks.

 

Našla sam najbolju odjevnu kombinaciju za Cleo i to je sa svim košuljama. Inače dobro ide i sa uskim majicama, ali to kod mene baš i nije opcija jer onda dojam vješalice bude samo dodatno izražen. Ali lepršave košulje su odlične.

 

___________

 

If you are thinking of making a Cleo for layering then be smarter than me and listen to fellow makers that have the experience and line it. It likes to go up when all you want is for it to stay down. I even tried to wear it with a slip but it still likes to catch to tights bellow the slip and nothing can stop it then. I am of course lazy to line it now but might go back to it later. You know, when I decide to make a zip or button opening. Yep.

 

Ako razmišljate o izradi ovakve haljine za mjesece kada su potrebne i najlonke, napravite si uslugu i podstavite ju. Voli se penjati uz nogu koliko god vi željeli da ostane dolje. Probala sam svoju nositi sa podhaljinom ali čim su to odvojena dva sloja haljina uhvati mali dio najlonki ispod podhaljine i opa, ide prema gore. Sada sam naravno prelijena da bi se vratila i podstavila ju, ali možda se natjeram na to u nekom trenutku napravim. Isto onda kada ću se natjerati napraviti i zip ili gumb kopčanje. Toliko o tome.

 

20180630_133711
Clip on buckles / Clip-on kopče

 

From all pocket options I used only one, the front pocket. It is great for some smaller things although phone is a bit too heavy for a longer walk, as it likes to pull the dress front down.
I had the clip on buckles in my stash from a place I don’t remember and they were perfect size and even less time consuming construction wise. Although I was happy to hammer in some jeans buttons, but decided to go with what I had.

 

Kroj ima više opcija za džepove, ja sam se odlučila samo za prednji džep. Svakakve sitnice stanu u njega, ali mobitel je malo pretežak za duže šetnje.

Koristila sam clip-on kopče koje sam već imala doma, ali se ne sjećam se gdje sam ih nabavila. Razmišljala sam nabaviti gumbe za traperice da isprobam njihovo montiranje čekićem, ali ipak sam se odlučila za ono što mi je već bilo pri ruci.

 

20180516_152901
I did say I like it, right? Because I do! / rekla sam da mi se sviđa, jel da? Jer mi se sviđa!

 

Next dungarees I make will be some pants ones, I just have to decide on the pattern. I have it narrowed down and think I have a winner but still need to get it as well as the perfect fabric.

 

Idući kombinezon će biti u verziji hlača, samo se moram odlučiti za pravi kroj. Imam par kandidata i mislim da sam odlučila koji ću koristiti, ali osim toga moram naći i pravu tkaninu.

 

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

 

Ana