Halla Coat by Named Patterns – Breaking the Pattern book

Do you ever dream of THE coat? And in that dream, do you have the perfect coat that is right amount different than its peers on the street? Does it catch the eye with details and pops of colour, yet is somehow elegantly subdued with its crisp lines and simple silhouette? I think I may have made myself that coat from my dreams. I kid you not.

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Sanjate li ikada o savršenom kaputu? I u tom snu, je li taj kaput drugačiji točno onoliko koliko treba od svojih vršnjaka na ulici? Je li upadljiv s detaljima i bojom, ali istovremeno elegantno nenapadan sa svojim jasnim linijama i jednostavnom siluetom? Mislim da sam uspjela napraviti taj savršeni kaput iz svojih snova. Bez zezanja.

The pattern is by Named Clothing from their book Breaking the Pattern they released last year. The book has ten sewing patterns and I went straight for the coat. I am not yet the most experienced out there but I have already two coats under my belt so I knew I could make this one as well.
Be prepared – the coat has 20 pattern pieces! I knew that before I started but did not really give it much thought. But when I started tracing it out I was tired after the first 5 pieces…I did not even manage to trace them all out in one day. So only tracing out took two days. Then another day for cutting out the main fabric and lining. Then another day for cutting out the interfacing and ironing it on the corresponding pieces. This is now already 4 days without even touching the sewing machine. But soon the fun part started and it was fun assembling the pieces together one by one. More so because I used two different fabrics.

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Kroj je od Named Patterns iz njihove knjige Breaking the Pattern koja je izašla krajem prošle godine.  Knjiga ima deset krojeva razne težine, a ja sam išla ravno na kaput. Još uvijek nisam najiskusnija, ali do sada sam napravila već dva kaputa tako da sam znala da ću moći bez problema napraviti i ovaj.
Budite spremni – kroj ima 20 krojnih komada! To sam znala prije nego sam počela raditi na njemu, ali nisam se baš zamarala s tim. Ali kada sam počela precrtavati krojne dijelove bila sam umorna već nakon prvih 5 komada…..nisam ih čak uspjela precrtati sve u istom danu. Tako da je samo iscrtavanje uzelo dva dana. Dodatan dan mi je trebao za izrezivanje vune i postave. Još jedan dan je otišao na izrezivanje flizelina i peglanja tog flizelina na određene komade vune. To je sada već 4 dana bez ijednog šava. Ali brzo nakon toga je došao zabavni dio šivanja i slaganja dijelova u cjelinu. Bilo je dodatno zabavno zbog dvije boje vune koje sam koristila.

The blue wool fabric is double sided – one side with different shades of blue and grey which I used on the coat bodice and sleeves and plain dark blue side I used for the belt. The fabric is thicker because there is also an extra layer between these two sides onto which both fabrics are glued. The faux collar, real collar and belt loops are made in light red wool I had left over from a cape my mom made me years ago. This red wool is much thinner so I interfaced it to make it work better in combination with the thicker wool fabric. And I can not tell you how satisfying it was working with both of these fabrics. They pressed like a dream and sewed up so easily, I was  – and I am still – impressed. I was struggling a bit with the belt and belt loops since the fabric is a bit thicker, but that was expected.

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Plava vuna je dvostrana – jedna strana je napravljena iz više plavih i sivih niti vune koju sam iskoristila za glavni dio kaputa i tamno plave strane koju sam iskoristila za remen. Tkanina je deblja jer je između ta dva sloja vune umetnut dodatan sloj na koji je ta vuna nalijepljena s obje strane. Revere i držače za remen sam napravila iz tanje crvene vune preostale od pelerine koju mi je mama sašila prije nekoliko godina. Ova vuna je dosta tanja pa sam ju dodatno učvrstila s flizelinom da bi bolje izgledala i da bi lakše radila s njom u kombinaciji s debljom plavom vunom. I ne mogu vam opisati koliko je super bilo raditi s obje vune. Odlično su reagirale na peglanje i bilo je tako lako šivati s njima da sam baš bila – i još jesam – impresionirana.  Malo sam se mučila s remenom i držačima za remen jer je tkanina tu deblja, ali to je bilo očekivano.

The idea for colour blocking came from my boyfriend. I had this blue wool fabric since last winter, it was a present from his parents. I wanted to make a coat from it then but never knew what pattern would work for it, so it lingered until the very last days of this winter. I went through a few patterns before settling on this one. With others, I feared it would easily end up looking like a blanket with this fabric (and I really wanted to avoid that). Then my boyfriend mentioned colour blocking and it all came into place.

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Ideja o kombinaciji boja je dečkova ideja. Plavu vunu sam imala od prošle zime kada sam ju dobila na poklon od njegovih roditelja. Već sam ju tada htjela pretvoriti u kaput, ali nikako nisam znala koji kroj koristiti. I tako je tkanina sjedila na polici sve do zadnjih dana ove zime. Razmišljala sam o više krojeva prije nego sam se odlučila za ovaj. S drugima mi se činilo da bi kaput na kraju lako mogao izgledati kao dekica (a to sam se trudila izbjeći). Onda je dečko dao ideju o kombiniranju boja i sve je sjelo na svoje mjesto.

The pattern originally has two belt loops that are sewn in the side seams. I did not like that and also wanted to make them shorter so they would hug the belt. In the original, they are a bit longer and stick out a bit. I made them as the original at first but then removed them, shortened them and sewed back on. I also added two extra belt loops in the back so they cross over (again, an idea from my boyfriend/in house designer).

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Kroj originalno ima dva držača za remen na bočnim stranama koji su ušiveni u bočni šav. To mi se nije sviđalo i htjela sam ih napraviti kraćima tako da budu uži uz remen. U originalu su duže i više strše van od kaputa. Iz prve sam ih napravila prema originalu, ali sam ih onda maknula, skratila i takve ponovo našila na kaput. Dodala sam i dva dodatna držača na leđima koji se križaju u X (opet, dečkova ideja).  

The lining came together really fast. I used two lining fabrics – red for the bodice to add the extra colour accent and greyish one from my stash left over from other projects for the sleeves. The facings are fully interfaced and as I used canvas interfacing it really makes it firm and crisp which works really well with this pattern and fabric. I mean the whole thing is a true love story.

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Postava je bila lagana i brza za izraditi. Koristila sam dvije postave – crvenu za tijelo radi dodatnog naglaska crvene i sivkastu za rukave koju sam već imala doma. Naličje kaputa oko revera i duž prednje strane je ojačano flizelinom i za to sam koristila kanvas flizelin. On je deblji i čvršći i odlično paše na ovu tkaninu i kroj i zbog njega kaput bolje drži formu. Mislim, cijeli kaput je jedna velika ljubavna priča.

The first Named coat I made was their Gaia coat and I already blogged about it here. I got that one directly as a PDF from their website and the instructions are really detailed and made the whole process very easy. I must say that I struggled a bit more with the book instructions for the Halla coat, as they are shorter. Maybe an editing decision for the book. But if this was my first coat, it would be a bit less encouraging. Rachel from Stitched up from YouTube saved me with some info. I watched her video on the book review for parts that I was missing in the instructions and went back to Gaia coat instructions for parts that are the same in the construction process of both coats. Overall, I’m glad I have the book and I’m looking forward to all other patterns I will make from it.

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Prvi kaput od Named koji sam napravila je Gaia kaput o kojem sam ranije pisala ovdje. Taj kroj sam kupila kao PDF direktno s njihove stranice i njegove upute su bile detaljne i zbog toga je cijeli proces izrade kaputa bio jednostavan. Moram priznati da sam se s ovim kaputom više namučila jer su upute u knjizi skraćene. Možda je to odluka izdavača, ali da mi je ovo bio prvi kaput to bi bilo malo obeshrabrujuće. Rachel sa Stitched Up YouTube kanala me spasila s par informacija. Pogledala sam njen video u kojem priča o knjizi za pomoć u pronalasku nekih informacija, a za određene korake koji su isti kod oba kaputa gledala sam upute Gaia kaputa. Sve u svemu, drago mi je da imam knjigu i veselim se isprobati i druge krojeve iz nje.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana