Zadie Jumpsuit review – pattern by Paper Theory Patterns

I made my first jumpsuit! Well, ahem….I made it in June but I had a long break from blogging so I am only writing about it now. But better late than never, right? So let’s get to it then.

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Sašila sam svoj prvi kombinezon! Pa, hm….sašila sam ga još u lipnju, ali kako sam imala podužu pauzu od bloga, tek sad pišem o tome. Ali bolje ikad nego nikad, jel da? Ajmo se onda odmah baciti na detalje. 

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When Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns came out everyone went nuts for it. I thought it was interesting but that it wasn’t for me. But then I kept seeing all the Zadies popping up on Instagram and when I saw firs few with a bit of ease taken out I was into it. I got the pattern and went straight to it. What was the right push at the right moment was the Sew Together for Summer Challenge on Instagram. It is a challenge run by lovely ladies Monika, Sarah and Suzy with a different theme every year. This year it was a jumpsuit – challenge accepted!

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Kada se pojavio Zadie kombinezon od Paper Theory Patterns, svi su poludili. Meni se činio interesantnim, ali ne kao nešto što je za mene. Ali onda su se počeli pojavljivati postovi o Zadie na Instagramu sa svih strana i kada sam vidjela prve kombinezone kod kojih su cure maknule višak materijala shvatila sam da to je kroj za mene. I odmah sam se bacila na posao. Pravi poticaj u pravo vrijeme bio je izazov Sew Together for Summer Challenge koji na Instagramu organiziraju Monika, Sarah i Suzy. Izazov svake godine ima drugu temu, a ove godine je to bio kombinezon – izazov prihvaćen!

 

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The challenge lasts for a full month of June but I sewed mine in two days at the end of the challenge finishing it on the day we were out the door for a short summer break. There is nothing like last-minute sewing. As there were already many Zadies out there I was able to see what others were commenting about the fit and how they dealt with it. I did not like the ease that is in the pattern, especially in the bottom part, so I knew I would be taking it in. What many others also mentioned is that the crotch seam is a bit too low. So, with all the wisdom from the online sewing community (thank you everyone!), I decided on what to do with mine.

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Izazov traje cijeli lipanj, a ja sam svoj kombinezon sašila u dva dana. Dovršila sam ga ujutro na dan kada smo išli na kratki ljetni odmor na more. Nema ništa kao šivanje u zadnji čas. Kako je već puno cura dovršilo svoje Zadie kombinezone mogla sam pročitati dosta o tome koje su one promjene radile kroju za bolji fit. Kako mi se nije sviđala originalna širina u kroju znala sam da ću ga sužavati. Ono što je dosta cura još spominjalo je nisko međunožje. I tako sa skupljenom svom mudrosti online šivaće zajednice (hvala svima!), odlučila sam što trebam napraviti sa krojem.

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ALTERATIONS

Based on my measurements I cut out the smallest size, which is two sizes smaller from my waist and hip measurements and one size smaller from my bust measurement. On top of that, I took in the side seams by 1 cm on both the bodice and pants. To raise the crotch I shortened the rise by 4 cm on the pants pattern pieces and took out 1 cm from the bottom of the bodice pieces. And this was the perfect amount. Next time I might transfer 1 or 2 cm from bodice to the pants to raise the waistline, but it also works as is. I just prefer a higher waistline on me.

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Prema mojim mjerama izrezala sam najmanju veličinu iz kroja. Ona je manja za dva broja od broja za moj struk i kukove i jedan broj za prsa. Uz to, dodatno sam sa strane hlača i gornjeg dijela kroja maknula 1 centimetar. Da bi podignula međunožje, skratila sam vrh hlača za 4 cm i gornji dio za 1 cm. I tih 5 centimetara je bilo taman. Idući put ću vjerojatno pomaknuti struk više gore. U redu je i ovako kako je sada, ali osobno više preferiram visoki struk.

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The fabric is a mystic fabric I bought in Vietnam. It is some sort of linen but it definitely has other fibers mixed in it. I should have done a burn test to see how it would react. if I find some scraps somewhere I will do that. The fabric behaved well under both the sewing machine and iron and I had no trouble with it.

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Materijal je mistična tkanina iz Vijetnama. Trebao bi biti lan, ali sam sigurna da ima i drugih stvari izmiješanih u sastavu. Trebala sam napraviti test paljenja da vidim kako se ponaša. Ako nađem neke ostatke tkanine to ću svakako napraviti. Tkanina se ponašala dobro pod mašinom i peglom i nisam imala s njom nikakvih problema.

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The pattern is a beaut and it does not gape!! If the adjustments are done right and you wrap yourself in it, you (and your body parts) will stay securely wrapped all day long. It is also a very comfortable garment to wear so that is a big plus. I can really recommend this pattern. The only downside to it is the bathroom situation. You know, getting butt naked in a public toilet – a girl’s dream. Oh, and one fun fact for the end – I won one of the prizes from the Sew Together for Summer challenge for this make and I could not be happier! Thank you ladies – can’t wait for next year’s theme!

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Kroj je ljepotica i ništa ne zjapi na prsima! Ali su prepravke dobro napravljene i dobr se zamotate, vi (i dijelovi vašeg tijela) ostat ćete cijeli dan sigurno zamotani. Jako je udoban za nositi što je isto veliki plus. Stvarno mogu preporučiti ovaj kroj. Jedina mana je odlazak na wc. Gola guzica (i ne samo to) u javnom wc-u: san svake cure. I jedna zanimljivost za kraj – osvojila sam jednu od nagrada iz Sew Together for Summer izazova i ne mogu biti sretnija! Hvala cure – jedva čekam iduću godinu i novu temu!

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Have you made this pattern? I am planning on doing an autumn/winter version in another mystic fabric I have in my stash, this time with long sleeves.

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Jeste sašili već ovaj kroj? Ja planiram sašiti jesenku/zimsku verziju u još jednoj mističnoj tkanini koju imam doma, ovaj put s dugim rukavima. 

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Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Kew skirt by Nina Lee Patterns

Kew dress pattern by Nina Lee is a beauty but I have not made a dress yet. I made a top before and blogged about it here and this time I made the skirt. Love when a pattern can be made into so many different garments. Next time, I will make a dress, but until then separates it is.

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Kew haljina od Nine Lee je divna ali još ju nisam napravila. Do sada sam napravila top o kojem sam ranije pisala ovdje, a ovaj put sam naravila suknju. Super mi je kada iz jednog kroja mogu naraviti toliko različitih odjevnih predmeta. Idući put ću napraviti haljinu jer bi bila super za ljeto. 

 

I finally used up this gorgeous floral fabric I had in my stash for so long I don’t even remember when and where I got it. It works so well with this pattern and I now I have a favourite skirt. Additionally, I also used up another old fabric that kind of got ruined in the wash as the lining. You can not see it, so it being ruined in the wash did not matter. I put it in for decency reasons since I though the main fabric could be too shear and it gives the extra layer to the skirt and makes it more firm and durable in the long run.

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Napokon sam iskoristila ovu divnu tkaninu s cvjetićima koju sam toliko dugo imala da niti ne pamtim kada sam ju točno kupila. Odlično paše za ovaj kroj i sada imam novu najdražu suknju. Čak sam iskoristila i drugu tkaninu iz zalihe za postavu koja se pofarbala u pranju. Ne vidi se tako da to što je uništena s bojom nema veze, a ipak sam našla način kako ju iskoristiti. Napravila sam i postavu jer nisam bila sigurna je li ovaj cvjetasti materijal dovoljno gusto tkan da nebi bio proziran, a i dodatan sloj joj daje čvrstoću pa će biti dugotrajnija.

It has a really high waist, REALLY high. That is new for me with skirts, but I like it. It is easy to make and the only time (and patience) consuming part is the buttons/buttonholes front closure. I say that because I had to put the buttons in three times. The first time around I was not really into doing it and rushed through sewing the buttons on. This resulted in pulling and a really awful looking skirt so I just took them right off. I put it on the side and came back to it after two months to fix it. I tried again but it turned out that the buttons I used were too thick and were pulling what ever I did with the tension. So I tried with other buttons and they worked like a charm!

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Suknja ima visok struk, STVARNO visok struk. To mi je novost kod suknji, ali mi se sviđa. Lagana je za izraditi i jedini vremenski (i po pitanju strpljenja) zahtjevan dio su gumbi i rupice za gumbe. To kažem zato što sam gumbe stavljala tri puta. Prvi put sam se žurila pa sam malo traljavo napravila posao. To je rezultiralo prečvrsto stegnutim gumbima, pa je suknja izgledala loše i bilo je puno povlačenja materijala u prednjem dijelu. Tako da sam ih odmah skinula. Ostavila sam suknju po strani i vratila joj se dva mjeseca kasnije da opet probam. Opet se desila ista stvar i ispalo je da su gumbi predebeli i povlače tkaninu bez obzira koliko se čvrsto ili labavo našiju. Uzela sam druge tanje gumbe i s njima je ispalo super iz prve!

 

I made the skirt in the smallest size and the fit is great. The only thing I would change next time is a curved waistband instead of the straight one because it does gape a bit on top. Another consideration would be to put a zip to the side so that the buttons on the front are not functional but just decorative. This would make it easier and faster to sew.

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Suknju sam napravila u najmanjoj veličini. Jedina stvar koju bi drugi put promijenila je zaobljeni pojas umjesto ravnog pojasa jer ravni pojas malo strši van u gornjem dijelu na mjestima. Druga promjena o kojoj bi razmislila je da cif ubacim na stranu, a gumbe našijem samo dekorativno. To bi puno olakšalo i ubrzalo izradu.

 

I made the hem longer in the back. I love it in general but I am not sure it is the best option for this particular skirt. I will not change it now because I am lazy, but for next time maybe I will skip that and make a straight hem.

The buttons are from my Mom’s stash she let me have last year so I am happy to report that this whole project was a stash buster! I give myself extra points for that alone : )

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Rub suknje je duži odostraga. To mi se generalno sviđa, ali nisam sigurna paše li mi baš najbolje na ovu suknju. Neću to mijenjati jer sam prelijena sad za to, ali ću idući put možda preskočiti i napraviti ravan rub.

Gumbi su iz mamine kutijice koju mi je dala prošle godine i sretna sam da mogu reći da je ovaj cijeli projekt nastao iz materijala koje sam već imala doma i napokon iskoristila! Za to si dajem dodatne bodove : )

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

Jenna Dress by By Hand London

I was a pattern tester for the first time and what better garment to test for than a beaut like the Jenna dress. This is the new pattern from By Hand London and it has two views. I decided to test the scoop neckline version – I just love the square neckline and the sleeve bow detail too much. The other version is also very interesting for an autumn/winter version, so I will probably be making that one later in the year as well.

Prvi put sam testirala kroj i kud sreće da je to baš Jenna haljina. To je novi kroj od By Hand London i ima dvije verzije. Odlučila sam se testirati verziju s otvorenim dekolteom i mašnama na rukavima jer su mi ta dva detalja jednostavno predobra da bi ih prekočila. Druga verzija je isto zanimljiva i bila bi super za jesensku/zimsku verziju haljine. Pa eto, možda u budućnosti napravim i tu verziju.

I used this strawberry fabric I got in Vietnam a bit over a year ago. It is a light cotton fabric, so not as floaty as viscose is, which is why the bias cut skirt looks more structured. If I make it again (and I just might) I will use a floatier fabric to really give the skirt its power of swishiness.

Iskoristila sam tkaninu s jagodama koju sam kupila u Vijetnamu prošle godine. Tkanina je lagani pamuk i pošto nije lepršav kao viskoza suknja bolje drži formu iako je rezana dijagonalno. Ako ću ju ponovo raditi (a baš bi mogla) napravit ću ju u viskozi da suknja bude baš lepršava.

The bodice is lined and I decided to line it in the same fabric to really make use out of it as much as I could. Also, as it is a spring/summer dress I knew that having a light cotton fabric against my skin would be much better than any lining fabric I had on hand in my stash.

Gornji dio haljine je podstavljen i za to sam iskoristila isti materijal jer sam ga taman imala dovoljno. A pošto je to ljetna haljina znala sam da bi mi lagani pamuk bio najbolja opcija, jer ništa drugo što sam imala pri ruci nije bilo dovoljno prozračno za nositi ljeti uz kožu.

The sleeves from this view are so so beautiful and my favourite detail. The bow gives it a special vibe and it is so easy to construct. I had a bit of a movement restriction with the muslin, so for the final version, I decided to grade the seam allowance from the top (shoulder) from regular 15 mm SA to 5 mm at the bottom (armpit). This helped a lot and my hands can cheerfully go up and down as they please. I always use my hands while talking as a proper south European, so that really helps.

Rukavi iz ove verzije su predivni i to mi je vjerojatno najbolji detalj. Mašna je kao šlag na torti, a tako je jednostavna za izraditi. Imala sam mali problem s pokretnošću ruku kod probne verzije, pa sam u finalnoj verziji mijenjala veličinu dodatka na šav od redovnog 15 mm na vrhu (kod ramena) do 5 mm u donjem dijelu (u podpazušnoj zoni). To mi je puno pomoglo i mogla sam micati normalno rukama kako poželim. A pošto koristim ruke redovno dok pričam kao prava stanovnica južne Europe, to stvarno puno znači.

I made the dress in the smallest size which fits perfectly. I choose the size based on the finished garment measurements, which is always a great indicator on the right size. I saw that the bust finished measurement was bigger than what I can fill so SBA (small bust adjustment) came to the rescue. I went on the By Hand London blog and found their posts for SBA from earlier patterns and applied it for Jenna. This worked out like a dream and the fit is spot on. I have enough ease to breathe and yet there is no gaping or access fabric where I do not want it.

Napravila sam haljinu u najmanjoj veličini i fit je odličan. Veličinu sam odabrala prema mjerama gotovog odjevnog predmeta što mi je uvijek najbolji indikator za odabir veličine. Vidjela sam da mi je veličina prsa prevelika u odnosu na to koliko ju mogu popuniti, tako da sam odlučila napraviti SBA (small bust adjustment ilitiga prilagodba malih prsa). Našla sam odličan tutorial za SBA na By Hand London blogu od par ranijih krojeva koji su mi poslužili za Jennu. Prilagodba je odlično uspjela i sad mi haljina odlično pristaje i to bez ikakvog neželjenog lufta, ali da pritom opet imam dovoljno prostora za disanje.

Overall, I really like this dress pattern and it can also be hacked into so many different versions which for me is always a plus. I am thinking of a long dress next, I just have to find the right fabric for it.

Sve u svemu, stvarno mi se sviđa ovaj kroj haljine i moguće ju je izmjeniti na toliko načina što je uvijek plus. Razmišljam i o nekoj dužoj verziji, samo moram pronaći pravi materijal.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Florence dress pattern by Sew Over it – when dress dreams come to life

Meet my autumn(est) dress ever. It is all about the fabric with this one, just look at all those different coloured leaves. If you ask me if I love autumn I really do not know what to say. I do love the colours, shift in the wardrobe, pants domination (preferably me-made), pleasant temperatures… but the one thing I do not love about it is the fact that summer is over. Not really something to blame on autumn, but there you go. So, I guess I do like it, but by the time I get accustomed to it, it is already almost winter. And the same thing every year. But, this time I made an autumn dress and I am ready for all future autumns coming my way!

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Upoznajte moju najjesenskiju haljinu ikada. Kod ove je sve u tkanini, pogledajte sve te listove raznih boja. Ako me pitate volim li jesen stvarno ne znam što da odgovorim. Volim boje jeseni, promjenu u garderobi, dominaciju hlača (po mogućnosti izrađene by moi), ugodne temperature….ali jedna stvar koju ne volim kod jeseni je činjenica da je ljeto gotovo. Znam da nije fer za to kriviti jesen, al eto. Na kraju pretpostavljam da ipak volim jesen, ali dok se priviknem na promjenu već je zima na vratima i tako svake godine. Ali ovaj put sam napravila jesensku haljinu i sad sam spremna za svaku iduću jesen koja dolazi!

The pattern is Florence dress by Sew Over It. This dress was interesting to me from the start and if you missed it, the pattern is named after Florence of Florence and the Machine. And as I already mentioned in one previous post she is one of my style icons and coolest gals out there. Her name is a definition of a long dress for me so this is all just so appropriate.

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Kroj je Florence haljina od Sew Over It. Odmah mi se svidio kad su ga izdali, a dijelom i zbog imena – nazvan je prema prema Florence iz Forence and the Machine. Kako sam već napisala u jednom ranijem postu, ona je jedna od meni najdražih stilskih ikona i općenito kul žena i njeno ime za mene znači u prijevodu duga haljina, tako da ovo sve zajedno ne može biti prikladnije.

The pattern is easy to construct. In original, it has a mandarin collar but I lengthened it to get the bow. It was the easiest hack ever and looks so great. I lengthened the pattern piece of the mandarin collar as much as I could – it was determined by the amount of fabric I had. But you can easily make it longer or shorter based on the bow size you like. And that is why sewing is great!

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Kroj je jednostavan za šivanje. Originalno dolazi s polovičnom kragnom (tzv. Mandarin kragna) ali ja sam ju produžila kako bi dobila mašnu koja se veže oko vrata. Ta izmjena je toliko jednostavna, a toliko efektna. Dužina nove kragne je bila definirana količinom tkanine koju sam u tom trenutku imala na raspolaganju. Ovisno o veličini mašne koju hoćete, kragna se lako može produžiti ili skratiti da dobijete točno ono što želite. I zbog toga je šivanje super!

As the pattern is easy to construct and I want the dress to last a long time I made the (almost) entire thing with french seams, apart from the armhole opening. Not sure why I have not done it there as well but I guess I was either eager to finish it or once I basted the sleeves to check the fit I was too lazy to unpick them. But hopefully, it will still last many autumns to come.

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Kako je kroj jednostavan za konstrukciju odlučila sam uložiti više vremena i skoro sve šavove sam izradila sa tzv „French seam“  šavom (šav za zatvorenim živim rubom tkanine). Jedino ga nisam napravila na otvoru za rukav, vjerojatno iz lijenosti ili žurbe. Tu se isto lako može napraviti, ali kako sam prvo probno prošila rukav da provjerim je li sve uredu nije mi se dalo parati da bi napravila istu stvar s francuskim šavom. Ali nadam se da će me svejedno ova haljina služiti mnogo godina.

 

The pattern has elasticated waist which is not my favourite but does look good, is easy to construct and wear. I was thinking of how I would avoid it next time (I am not a fan!) to get the effect of the elasticated waist without really having one. I did literally just that – no elastic – in my second version which is coming to the blog soon, keep your eyes peeled!

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Kroj koristi elastičnu gumu za skupljanje u struku, što osobno nije moj najdraži detalj, ali je brzo i jednostavno za izradu i nošenje. Razmišljala sam kako bi točno izbjegla taj korak, a da i dalje skupim tkaninu u struku. To sam i napravila – bez elastike – na drugoj verziji koji isto uskoro dolazi na blog!

I used a viscose fabric with falling leaves on a blue background I got while in Vietnam last spring. It was a great option for this pattern. My sister is the one who talked me into buying it, so thank you, sis! We first saw the same fabric with a dark green background which looked ok, but something was just not speaking to me. But then I saw the blue colourway one and the rest is history.

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Izradila sam ju u viskoznoj tkanini s raznobojnim lišćem koju sam kupila na putu u Vijetnamu prošlo proljeće. Tkanina odlično ide s ovim krojem. Sestra me nagovorila da kupim ovaj materijal, tako da hvala seka! Prvo smo vidjele isti uzorak tkanine na tamno zelenoj podlozi koja je bila ok, ali nešto joj je falilo. A onda sam ugledala ovu s plavom podlogom i ostalo je povijest.

Golden rule: take pictures on a day with no wind. I am great at following my own rules / zlatno pravilo: slikajte se na dan bez vjetra. Ja sam super u tome da se držim vlastitih pravila.

I received a great reaction on this dress over on Instagram and thank you all for your likes and comments. This gal is happy when something she made with her hands is so well received.

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Na Instagramau sam za ovu haljinu dobila odličnu reakciju i hvala svima na lajkovima i komentarima. Ova cura je sretna kada nešto što je napravila vlastitim rukama bude tako lijepo primljeno.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Halla Coat by Named Patterns – Breaking the Pattern book

Do you ever dream of THE coat? And in that dream, do you have the perfect coat that is right amount different than its peers on the street? Does it catch the eye with details and pops of colour, yet is somehow elegantly subdued with its crisp lines and simple silhouette? I think I may have made myself that coat from my dreams. I kid you not.

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Sanjate li ikada o savršenom kaputu? I u tom snu, je li taj kaput drugačiji točno onoliko koliko treba od svojih vršnjaka na ulici? Je li upadljiv s detaljima i bojom, ali istovremeno elegantno nenapadan sa svojim jasnim linijama i jednostavnom siluetom? Mislim da sam uspjela napraviti taj savršeni kaput iz svojih snova. Bez zezanja.

The pattern is by Named Clothing from their book Breaking the Pattern they released last year. The book has ten sewing patterns and I went straight for the coat. I am not yet the most experienced out there but I have already two coats under my belt so I knew I could make this one as well.
Be prepared – the coat has 20 pattern pieces! I knew that before I started but did not really give it much thought. But when I started tracing it out I was tired after the first 5 pieces…I did not even manage to trace them all out in one day. So only tracing out took two days. Then another day for cutting out the main fabric and lining. Then another day for cutting out the interfacing and ironing it on the corresponding pieces. This is now already 4 days without even touching the sewing machine. But soon the fun part started and it was fun assembling the pieces together one by one. More so because I used two different fabrics.

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Kroj je od Named Patterns iz njihove knjige Breaking the Pattern koja je izašla krajem prošle godine.  Knjiga ima deset krojeva razne težine, a ja sam išla ravno na kaput. Još uvijek nisam najiskusnija, ali do sada sam napravila već dva kaputa tako da sam znala da ću moći bez problema napraviti i ovaj.
Budite spremni – kroj ima 20 krojnih komada! To sam znala prije nego sam počela raditi na njemu, ali nisam se baš zamarala s tim. Ali kada sam počela precrtavati krojne dijelove bila sam umorna već nakon prvih 5 komada…..nisam ih čak uspjela precrtati sve u istom danu. Tako da je samo iscrtavanje uzelo dva dana. Dodatan dan mi je trebao za izrezivanje vune i postave. Još jedan dan je otišao na izrezivanje flizelina i peglanja tog flizelina na određene komade vune. To je sada već 4 dana bez ijednog šava. Ali brzo nakon toga je došao zabavni dio šivanja i slaganja dijelova u cjelinu. Bilo je dodatno zabavno zbog dvije boje vune koje sam koristila.

The blue wool fabric is double sided – one side with different shades of blue and grey which I used on the coat bodice and sleeves and plain dark blue side I used for the belt. The fabric is thicker because there is also an extra layer between these two sides onto which both fabrics are glued. The faux collar, real collar and belt loops are made in light red wool I had left over from a cape my mom made me years ago. This red wool is much thinner so I interfaced it to make it work better in combination with the thicker wool fabric. And I can not tell you how satisfying it was working with both of these fabrics. They pressed like a dream and sewed up so easily, I was  – and I am still – impressed. I was struggling a bit with the belt and belt loops since the fabric is a bit thicker, but that was expected.

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Plava vuna je dvostrana – jedna strana je napravljena iz više plavih i sivih niti vune koju sam iskoristila za glavni dio kaputa i tamno plave strane koju sam iskoristila za remen. Tkanina je deblja jer je između ta dva sloja vune umetnut dodatan sloj na koji je ta vuna nalijepljena s obje strane. Revere i držače za remen sam napravila iz tanje crvene vune preostale od pelerine koju mi je mama sašila prije nekoliko godina. Ova vuna je dosta tanja pa sam ju dodatno učvrstila s flizelinom da bi bolje izgledala i da bi lakše radila s njom u kombinaciji s debljom plavom vunom. I ne mogu vam opisati koliko je super bilo raditi s obje vune. Odlično su reagirale na peglanje i bilo je tako lako šivati s njima da sam baš bila – i još jesam – impresionirana.  Malo sam se mučila s remenom i držačima za remen jer je tkanina tu deblja, ali to je bilo očekivano.

The idea for colour blocking came from my boyfriend. I had this blue wool fabric since last winter, it was a present from his parents. I wanted to make a coat from it then but never knew what pattern would work for it, so it lingered until the very last days of this winter. I went through a few patterns before settling on this one. With others, I feared it would easily end up looking like a blanket with this fabric (and I really wanted to avoid that). Then my boyfriend mentioned colour blocking and it all came into place.

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Ideja o kombinaciji boja je dečkova ideja. Plavu vunu sam imala od prošle zime kada sam ju dobila na poklon od njegovih roditelja. Već sam ju tada htjela pretvoriti u kaput, ali nikako nisam znala koji kroj koristiti. I tako je tkanina sjedila na polici sve do zadnjih dana ove zime. Razmišljala sam o više krojeva prije nego sam se odlučila za ovaj. S drugima mi se činilo da bi kaput na kraju lako mogao izgledati kao dekica (a to sam se trudila izbjeći). Onda je dečko dao ideju o kombiniranju boja i sve je sjelo na svoje mjesto.

The pattern originally has two belt loops that are sewn in the side seams. I did not like that and also wanted to make them shorter so they would hug the belt. In the original, they are a bit longer and stick out a bit. I made them as the original at first but then removed them, shortened them and sewed back on. I also added two extra belt loops in the back so they cross over (again, an idea from my boyfriend/in house designer).

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Kroj originalno ima dva držača za remen na bočnim stranama koji su ušiveni u bočni šav. To mi se nije sviđalo i htjela sam ih napraviti kraćima tako da budu uži uz remen. U originalu su duže i više strše van od kaputa. Iz prve sam ih napravila prema originalu, ali sam ih onda maknula, skratila i takve ponovo našila na kaput. Dodala sam i dva dodatna držača na leđima koji se križaju u X (opet, dečkova ideja).  

The lining came together really fast. I used two lining fabrics – red for the bodice to add the extra colour accent and greyish one from my stash left over from other projects for the sleeves. The facings are fully interfaced and as I used canvas interfacing it really makes it firm and crisp which works really well with this pattern and fabric. I mean the whole thing is a true love story.

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Postava je bila lagana i brza za izraditi. Koristila sam dvije postave – crvenu za tijelo radi dodatnog naglaska crvene i sivkastu za rukave koju sam već imala doma. Naličje kaputa oko revera i duž prednje strane je ojačano flizelinom i za to sam koristila kanvas flizelin. On je deblji i čvršći i odlično paše na ovu tkaninu i kroj i zbog njega kaput bolje drži formu. Mislim, cijeli kaput je jedna velika ljubavna priča.

The first Named coat I made was their Gaia coat and I already blogged about it here. I got that one directly as a PDF from their website and the instructions are really detailed and made the whole process very easy. I must say that I struggled a bit more with the book instructions for the Halla coat, as they are shorter. Maybe an editing decision for the book. But if this was my first coat, it would be a bit less encouraging. Rachel from Stitched up from YouTube saved me with some info. I watched her video on the book review for parts that I was missing in the instructions and went back to Gaia coat instructions for parts that are the same in the construction process of both coats. Overall, I’m glad I have the book and I’m looking forward to all other patterns I will make from it.

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Prvi kaput od Named koji sam napravila je Gaia kaput o kojem sam ranije pisala ovdje. Taj kroj sam kupila kao PDF direktno s njihove stranice i njegove upute su bile detaljne i zbog toga je cijeli proces izrade kaputa bio jednostavan. Moram priznati da sam se s ovim kaputom više namučila jer su upute u knjizi skraćene. Možda je to odluka izdavača, ali da mi je ovo bio prvi kaput to bi bilo malo obeshrabrujuće. Rachel sa Stitched Up YouTube kanala me spasila s par informacija. Pogledala sam njen video u kojem priča o knjizi za pomoć u pronalasku nekih informacija, a za određene korake koji su isti kod oba kaputa gledala sam upute Gaia kaputa. Sve u svemu, drago mi je da imam knjigu i veselim se isprobati i druge krojeve iz nje.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Wool Flint pants / Vunene Flint hlače – by Megan Nielsen

 

This is my 5th pair of Flint pants! As you can tell I LOVE this pattern. It is so cool and modern with just the right amount of details. As I made this pair in a stripe fabric I played with it to create more details but they are still subtle and do not overwhelm.

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Ovo je peti par Flint hlača koje sam napravila! Kao što vidite VOLIM ovaj kroj. Tako je kul i moderan s odlično doziranom količinom detalja. Pošto sam ovaj par napravila u prugastoj tkanini napravila sam neke dodatne detalje tako da sam se poigrala s prugama.

I made a contrasting hem detail and also changed the direction of stripes at the pockets. I really like these details and the amount of fun you can have with stripes. You can tune it to your needs and go all stripe clashing or do as little as possible and let the stripes talk for themselves. I like both options depending on the pattern and fabric.
The fabric is a wool suiting I got at a local store and it is just yummy! I saw Flint pants in my head the moment I saw the fabric on the shelf. They are warm and perfect for this time of year. The fabric frayed, so I zigzagged all edges to keep it from making a total mess in my sewing corner. This is maybe the most work appropriate pair of Flints I have. I always wanted to have a pair of pants in wool suiting and these may not be my last. Sewing makes dreams come true and that is THE BEST! I have styled them here with a Named Clothing Paola turtleneck tee in grey polka dot Ponte di roma I blogged about before here.

Napravila sam kontrastni rub s drugačijim smjerom pruga. Isti detalj napravila sam i na džepovima. Jako mi se sviđaju ti detalji i koliko je zabavno igrati se s raznim opcijama koje su moguće s prugama. Možete se odlučiti za maksimalni prugasti kontrast ili napraviti samo sitne detalje, kako vam odgovara. Meni je oboje super, ovisno o kroju i tkanini.
Koristila sam vunenu tkaninu koju sam nabavila u lokalnom dućanu Svijet Tkanine. Čim sam vidjela tkaninu, u glavi mi se pojavila slika Flint hlača sa svim detaljima. Tkanina je topla i odlična za par zimskih hlača. Razmrsila se na rubovima pa sam ih sve odmah porubila s zigzag šavom da mi nebi nastao kaos i nered u sobi koji bi kasnije morala čistiti. Ovo su vjerojatno „najposlovije“ hlače koje imam. Oduvijek sam htjela imati vunene hlače i ove vjerojatno neće biti zadnje. Šivanje ispunjava snove i to je NAJBOLJE IKAD! Ovdje sam ih iskombinirala s Paola dolčevitom u sivom džersej polka dot materijalu (kroj od Named Clothing) o kojoj sam pisala ranije.

As I already wrote about these pants, I will shortly mention what I love about this pattern. They are easy to wear and are so comfortable. The wide leg is so IN right now and the fact that I can make them myself in any colour or print I want is just beyond cool. The pants have innovative closure on the side with a button and optional bow. I made all of mine with a bow. Because – bow! But I have seen other sewists making them in a sailor vibe with buttons and that looks great too. Maybe I will make sailor shorts for next summer to finally make a pair without the bow.

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Pošto sam već pisala o ovom kroju, samo ću kratko spomenuti što sve volim kod njega. Hlače su jednostavne za nošene i tako su ugodne. Šire nogavice su sad u modi i činjenica da ih sama mogu napraviti u boji i uzorku koji zaželim je više nego kul. Zatvaraju se na inovativan način na strani s gumbom i mašnom (mašna po izboru). Ja sam sve svoje do sad napravila s mašnom. Jer – mašna! Ali vidjela sam puno Flint hlača koje su druge cure napravile s mornarskom vibrom bez mašne i super izgledaju. Možda bi mogla napraviti kratke mornanske hače za iduće ljeto bez mašne da imam i nešto malo drugačije.

Fabric and button / tkanina i gumb

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

 

 

A symphony of a dream outfit with Persephone pants – pattern by Anna Allen Clothing

I made a dream outfit which makes me smile like a dork. Persephone pants, Burda style magazine shirt and Gaia coat. I already blogged about the coat here, so I will not write much about it now, accept that I love it more than I love chocolate.

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Napravila sam outfit iz snova zbog kojeg se cerim kao bedak. Persephone hlače, Burda košulja i Gaia kaput. O kaputu sam već pisala ovdje, pa sada neću pisati o njemu osim što ću napomenuti da ga volim više od čokolade.

The perfect outfit/ savršeni outfit

I was eyeing the Persephone pants pattern by Anna Allen for a long time now but kept away from purchasing it. I have few other pants patterns similar to it in my stash already, so didn’t think I really needed this one. But I had terrible luck with all these other patterns and could not fit any of them. I was already close to crying. So I thought this one might be my light at the end of the tunnel since everyone was praising about it over on Instagram. So I did, I bought it and I am never going back. The fit is spot on and I am finally releasing all the frustration from other failed attempts of fitting pants. I made two muslins and decided the fit is perfect with size 2 at the waist graded to size 4 at hips. I also took the back seam in by 0.5 cm in because there was a bit of access fabric. I made the real thing out of 8oz denim from Minerva crafts. The denim tends to give with wear so maybe for my next denim pair I will size down to size 2 in hips and see how that woks. They fit fine but are a bit baggy after few wears. Nothing that would stop me from wearing them, just something that will help me make the second version better.

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Gledala sam kroj za Persephone hlače od Anna Allen dugo vremena, ali sam se suzdržavala od kupovine. Imam već nekoliko sličnih krojeva, pa nisam mislila da ne trebam i ovaj kroj. Ali sam s drugim krojevima imala loše iskustvo s podešavanjem tako da niti jedan kroj nije zaživio u formi hlača. Već sam bila na rubu suza. I onda sam pomislila da bi možda ovaj kroj mogao biti svijetlost na kraju tunela, obzirom da ga svi hvale na Instagramu. I jesam, kupila sam ga i više se neću vraćati nazad. Pristaju mi kao salivene i napokon otpuštam frustraciju koju sam nakupila iz svih promašaja s drugim krojevima. Napravila sam dvije testne verzije i vidjela da mi paše veličina 2 u struku prošireno na veličinu 4 u kukovima. Dodatno sam unjela stražnji šav za 0.5 cm da se riješim viška tkanine u tom području. Hlače sam napravila u 8oz traperu iz Minerva crafts dućana. Traper se širi s nošenjem pa možda za idući par ostanem u veličini 2 i u kukovima. I ovako dobro pristaju samo se s nošenjem malo razvuku. Ništa što bi me spriječilo da ih nosim, ali nešto što će mi pomoći kod izrade idućeg para da budu još bolje.

I also used a memade clay button / iskoristila sam i svoj keramički gumb

The reason I am pointing at the button above is because it is memade out of clay and I blogged about that process here.

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Razlog zašto pokazujem na gumb je taj što sam i njega napravila od keramike, a o tome sam ranije pisala ovdje.

2nd muslin

To be open and not talk about successes only, I did make a mistake while sewing. I was so thrilled on finishing them and when I had one last button to go at the waist I went in and sewed the buttonhole only to realise I did in on the wrong side of the waist (part of waist where the button goes). Thankfully, this mistake did not mean I had too many reparations to do, or better yet, any at all (good thing is I did not cut into the buttonhole yet!). I only put the button over it and sewed a new buttonhole on the top side of the waistband. This means that now if you look closely, like in the picture bellow, you can see part of that useless buttonhole, but as it would be weird for anyone to look that closely there, I think I am fine.

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Da budem skroz iskrena i ne pišem samo o uspjesima, na hlačama sam napravila jednu vidljivu grešku. Bila sam toliko uzbuđena da ih dovršim i kada sam bila na zadnjem gumbu sašila sam rupu za gumb i shvatila da sam ju uspjela našiti na krivoj strani pojasa (donji dio pojasa na koji ide gumb).  Srećom nisam već zarezala u rupu pa nisam trebala ništa prepravljati, već sam samo našila gumb preko toga. Rupu za gumb sam našila na drugu stranu pojasa i ta da. Kad se bolje pogleda vidi se beskorisna rupa za gumbe s donje strane pojasa (na slici dolje), ali kako nitko normalan neće s pretjeranom pozornošću gledati u taj predio hlača mislim da sam ok.

or maybe you cannot see it in this picture after all 🙂 / ili ipak ne možete vidjeti tu grešku ni na ovoj slici 🙂

The Burda style shirt is from magazine issue 4/2018. The pattern is actually a jumpsuit, but I hacked it into a shirt. The jumpsuit looks perfect though, so I might do that one as well at one point. The pattern has many lovely details and when I saw Vesna of @kelerabeus make the jumpsuit I was determined to make it as well. Fabric restrictions made me stick to the shirt only, but I love it. The pattern has double sleeve action which caught my eye straight away. I scratched my head a lot with this one (as I always do with Burda), so Vesna was so great to help and send me her version of Serbian instructions, because the German ones were not cutting it. Thank you Vesna!

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Košulja je iz Burda časopisa broj 4/2018. Originalno je to kroj za kombinezon, ali sam ga izradila kao košulju. Kombinezon je odličan, pa u nekom trenutku možda i njega napravim. Kroj ima odlične detalje i kada sam vidjela Vesnin (@kelerabeus) kombinezon znala sam da ga i ja želim. Kako sam bila ograničena s količinom materijala napravila sam košulju, ali sam prezadovoljna. Kroj ima dupli rukav koji me odmah privukao. Ovaj kroj me dosta izazvao s uputama (kao i svaki drugi Burdin kroj), ali je Vesna super i poslala mi je srpsku verziju uputa, pošto mi njemačke upute jednostavno nisu bile od nikakve koristi. Hvala Vesna!

The fabric I used is a viscose with small polka dots I got at a local shop. It is a great option for the double sleeve. It pairs well with jeans and it was meant to be worn with denim Persephone pants, at last in my opinion. What do you think?

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Tkanina je viskoza sa sitnim točkicama, a nabavila sam ju u lokalnom dućanu. Viskoza je odlična opcija za ovaj dupli rukav. Super je u kombinaciji s trapericama i stvorena je za Persephone hlače, barem po mojem mišljenju. Što vi mislite?

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

My colour story / Moja priča o boji

I like colour. I love colour. Not sure which is more true. I do love it, but when I really look at my wardrobe maybe that is not really the right choice of words. I do like them and I have some colourful garments in there, but it does not really seam to be a wardrobe from a person that loves colour. But it does look like a wardrobe from little old me and it is getting brighter with time.

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Volim boju. Sviđa mi se boja. Nisam sigurna koja rečenica je točnija. Volim boju, ali kada pogledam u svoj ormar možda to nije najprikladniji odabir riječi. Sviđaju mi se boje i imam neke šarene komade u ormaru, ali to baš i nije garderoba osobe koja voli boje. Ali izgleda kao moja garderoba i s vremenom postaje sve šarenija.

In my teenage years I used to hide behind black, grey and brown. Beige was my „happy“ colour as it was brighter than my other clothes, but over time it was just one of the uninteresting shades in my anything-but-colourful wardrobe. I liked colours on others, but never felt I could pull it off, or to be really honest, felt comfortable or confident enough to wear them. Now I see how silly that is and how expressing through clothes can be fun and make you feel great, but tell that to teenage shy me and you will get a sarcastic laugh at best.

But now I am older, smarter and care way less about what others think and whether I will be noticeable on the street. And sewing has a lot to do with that. When I first started sewing I made only dresses and occasional tops. I am not really a big dress wearer, but that is how it usually starts. It is in parts the easiest garment to sew and most fun to make. This had nothing to do with my style, as I did not wear dresses everyday and although they did get worn on occasions or over the weekends they mostly sat in my wardrobe. With time (and mostly after joining the awesome Instagram sewing community) I started exploring with sewing other garments and by now I made coats, trousers, shirts, cardigans, t-shirts, skirts and of course, more dresses. I diversified in my garment making which gave me more opportunity to diversify in colour. This was a new way to introduce colour into my everyday garments because trousers and t-shirts/shirts are what I wear daily. Colour was there in traces in the beginning, but now I feel I can pull off a bright colour in any of these garments. Not because I think it suits me all of a sudden, but I no longer have that block in my head thinking I should keep away from it.

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U tinejdžerskim godinama sam se uglavnom skrivala iza crne, sive i smeđe. Bež je bila moja „vesela“ boja jer je bila svjetlija od drugih, ali s vremenom je i to postala jedna od dosadnijih nijansi u mojem sve samo ne šarenom ormaru. Boje su mi se sviđale na drugima, ali nisam mislila da meni pristaju ili da budem potpuno iskrena, nisam se osijećala ugodno u njima kao upadljivijim bojama. Sad znam koliko je to blesavo i koliko izražavanje kroz boje može biti zabavno i utjecati na pozitivno raspoloženje. Ali reći to tinejdžerskoj meni i u najboljem slučaju dobili bi sarkastičan osmjeh kao odgovor.

Sada sam starija, pametnija i puno manje brinem o tuđem mišljenju i hoću li biti primjetna na ulici. I šivanje ima velike veze sa tim. Kada sam počela šivati izrađivala sam samo haljine i povremeno neku majicu. Inače nisam baš tip za svakodnevno nošenje haljina, ali tako se uglavnom počinje. Dijelom je to najjednostavniji i najzabavniji komad za sašiti. To nije odražavalo moj stil, pošto nisam baš tip za svakodnevne haljine i iako sam ih nosila za prigode ili vikende uglavnom su visile u ormaru. S vremenom (i dobrim dijelom nakon otkrivanja odlične zajednice na Instagramu) sam počela širiti spektar šivanja i napravila kapute, hlače, košulje, veste, majice, šoseve i naravno, još haljina. Proširila sam raspon odjevnih predmeta koje sam šivala što mi je dalo više prilike za uvođenje boja u garderobu, pošto hlače i majice/košulje nosim svakodnevno. U početku su to bili tragovi boja, ali sada su to komadi u bilo kojoj boji duge. Ne zato što mislim da mi sada odjednom pristaju, već zato što više nemam tu glupu ideju u glavi da ih ne nosim.

And now I want all of them. Rainbow of fabrics. Red, yellow, orange, blue, green. I want them all. Recently, as some of you may know, I made a new coat in a beautiful rust colour. Before I had a rtw black coat (which I still love and wear occasionally) and a beige coat I made last winter. I would say this new rust coat is a step up in the colour game. I love this colour at the moment and can not get enough of it. I already have culottes and one turtleneck in that colour and another twill fabric waiting to be made into trousers. This is probably a faze I am going through, but what I love about it is that I embraced it this time around and I’m taking advantage of it. And by having a coat in that colour I do it daily. It really makes me happy and I really believe it is partly because of the colour, although the fact it was made by my own hands is another big reason for it.

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I sad ih želim sve. Duga svih boja. Crvena, žuta, narančasta, plava, zelena. Želim ih sve. Nedavno sam, kao što neki od vas možda već znaju, sašila divan narančasti (hrđavi) kaput. Prije toga sam imala kupovni crni kaput (koji i dalje volim i ponekad nosim) i bež kaput koji sam napravila prošle zime. Rekla bi da je novi tamno narančasti kaput definitivno stepenicu iznad toga u igri bojama. Trenutno jako volim ovu boju i ne mogu je se zasititi. Već imam jedne hlače i dolčevitu u toj boji i još jednu keper tkaninu koja čeka da postane hlače. To je vjerojatno faza kroz koju prolazim, ali volim da sam ju u potpunosti prihvatila i iskoristila. A pošto imam kaput u toj boji iskorištavam ju svakodnevno. Baš me uveseljava i vjerujem da je to dobrim dijelom zbog boje, iako naravno činjenica da sam kaput izradila svojim vlastitim rukama ima veliki utjecaj u tome.

I still have black and grey pieces in my wardrobe and I wear them regularly. But I have the option to go on the colour route if I feel like it and that feels sort of liberating. Might sound silly, heck, might sound stupid to some, but it makes me feel great and that is all I care about.  So here I am putting my rust wool coat on and heading out for another day of colouring the dull grey winter.

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Još uvijek imam crne i sive komade u garderobi i redovno ih nosim. Ali ako poželim imam opciju otići na obojenu stranu i to je nekako oslobađajuće. Možda zvuči smiješno, možda nekome i bedasto, ali mene uveseljava i to je sve što me zanima. I eto me tu, s narančastim kaputom preko ramena, spremna da izađem van obojiti još jedan dosadan sivi zimski dan.

my sewing queue for spring / moj plan šivanja za proljeće

Do you have a favourite colour? Does colour affect you and your mood? I find this interesting and there are articles and books written on that subject – the sociology and meaning of colour. It is funny how what colours represent changed throughout history as well. This subject is way bigger than this single post, but if you are interested in it I encourage you to explore it.

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Imate vi najdražu boju? Utječe li boja na vas i vaše raspoloženje? Meni je to jako zanimljivo i o tome su već napisani brojni članci i knjige – sociologija i značenje boja. Zanimljivo je i kao se značenje boja mijenjalo kroz povijest. Ta tema je puno veća od ovog posta, ali ako vas ta tema interesira savjetujem da ju istražite.

 

I  pulled some fabrics out from my stash to use them for upcoming spring and summer makes that fit into a rainbow. Have a virtual stroll through the rainbow with me.

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Izvukla sam neke tkanine s polica koje ću iskoristiti za nadolazeće planove šivanja za proljeće i ljeto. Dođite u virtualnu šetnju samnom kroz tu dugu.

 

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

 

Toaster sweater – Sew House Seven pattern

I love sweaters and how cosy and warm they are. Sometimes you just want to be comfortable, simple and not fuss with all the closures, button-up shirts and what not. Sometimes a slouchy sweater is all you want to wear. But what if you want to rock a sweater while still looking fashionable. Well, leisurely fashionable. Searching for that is when I discovered the Toaster sweater no 1 pattern by Sew House Seven. What is good about this pattern is that you can get it in two variations and the no 2 version might be even better for a „leisurely fashionable“ look. So far I tried only no 1 version and already made 3 of them. Yup, that is how much I love the style.

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Volim veste i kako su ugodne i tople. Ponekad samo želiš nositi nešto ugodno, jednostavno i ne gnjaviti se sa zatvaračima, košuljama i čime već. Ponekad je široki džersej džemper sve što želiš nositi. A što ako želiš nositi ugodnu džersej vestu, ali i dalje izgledati pomodno. Mislim, ugodno pomodno. Tražila sam takav kroj i naišla na Toaster no1 kroj od Sew House Seven. Što je još bolje kroj dolazi u dvije verzije i no2 verzija je čak možda i više „ugodno pomodnog“ stila. Za sada sam isprobala samo Toaster no1 verziju i već sam napravila 3 komada. Da, toliko mi se sviđa ovaj stil.

The pattern has raglan sleeves, high neckband (which I love to wear folded), long cuffs and wide waistband. Later two are main features of this pattern in my opinion that make it interesting and different. It is fast to make, simple to wear and I love all versions I’ve seen on other people over on Instagram. It just works perfect on everybody!

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Kroj ima raglan rukave, visok ovratnik (koji volim nositi presavinuto), duge manšete i duboki pojas. Zadnja dva detalja su po mojem mišljenju najizraženiji detalji kroja koji ga čine interesantnim i drugačijim. Brzo se napravi, jednostavan je za nošenje i sviđaju mi se sve verzije koje sam vidjela od drugih na Instagramu. Jednostavno dobro stoji na svakome!

The first version was made in this floral scuba I got about a year ago. Flowers are something I am drawn to all the time but I am not really sure they are my style. Well, I guess roses are not my style, but this one was talking to me. I only got a metre of it so had to play crazy pattern tetris to get the sweater out of it. After the first try I gave up because there was no way in this world that I could fit all pattern pieces on it. But then I figured I can just remove the bottom band and lengthen the bodice a bit. This still makes a fun sweater and I love wearing it with high waisted skirts and trousers. I combined it here with Erin skirt I blogged about earlier. I lengthened the bodice as much as I could from the fabric I had at hand. If I remember correctly it was by 4 cm.

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Prvu verziju sam napravila iz cvjetnog uzorka scube koju sam kupila prije otprilike godinu dana. Cvjetni uzorci me privlače iako nisam sigurna koliko je to moj stil. Zapravo, ruže nisu moj stil, ali ova tkanina mi je bila tako privlačna. Imala sam samo metar tkanine pa sam trebala koristiti pravo tetris umijeće da bi izvukla džemper iz toga. Nakon prvog pokušaja sam odustala jer nije bilo teorije po kojoj bi uspjela izrezati sve krojne komade. Ali onda sam skužila da mogu izbaciti pojas i malo produžiti prednji i stražnji dio i to je to. Tako isto izgleda super i volim ju nositi sa šosevima i hlačama visokog struka. Ovdje sam ju skombinirala sa Erin šosom o kojem sam raije pisala. Produžila sam ih za otprilike 4 centimetra jer je to sve što sam mogla izvući iz ove količine materijala.

I made the second version in a white sweatshirt fabric I got locally and it is the perfect match of fabric and pattern. I get a serious Audrey Hepburn vibe with it and to get the total look I need to make slim black trousers and voila! But seriously, this is the essence of „leisurely fashionable“ look. I love how the wide band shapes the garment. With this version I shortened the bodice by 2 centimetres (because I did make this version with the bottom band) and took it in from waist to bottom gradually finishing at bottom 0.5 cm in from the original seam. This is a small change but it really made it sit better. This has to do with my sway back and where the pattern (bottom band) hits on me, so I had to shorten it to avoid any bunching in the lower back. This made all the difference and it fits great now.

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Drugu verziju sam napravila iz bijele mrvu deblje džersej tkanine koju sam nabavila lokalno i mislim da je to primjer savršene kombinacije tkanine i kroja. Imam ozbiljnu Audrey Hepburn vibru s njom i za totalni Audrey look samo još trebam uske crne hlače i voila! Ali ozbiljno, to je točno „ugodno pomodni“ stil. Sviđa mi se kako pojas oblikuje vestu. Kod ove verzije sam prednji i stražnji dio tijela skratila za 2 centimetra (jer sam na ovoj verziji napravila i pojas). Također sam suzila tijelo od struka do dna tako da sam završila 0.5 cm unutra od originalnog šava. To je mala promjena, ali puno popravlja sveukupan izgled i vesta bolje stoji. To ima veze s mojim uvinutim leđima i gdje mi pojas kroja sjeda, pa sam ju morala skratiti da se tkanina ne napuhuje u donjem dijelu leđa. To sam i uspjela sa skraćivanjem u tijelu iznad pojasa i sad super izgleda.

 

The third version I made in this very popular Atelier Brunette fabric. I think soon after it got released there was not one day I wouldn’t see one make from it on my Instagram feed. I loved it but avoided buying it since at that point I was going strong with my fabric buying ban. But I caved. I am not sorry now because I love this fabric (I am wearing it as I am typing this!). It did sit in my stash for over a year which I also try to avoid now as much as I can. I knew I would make a sweater from it but not exactly from which pattern. And than there was fear. What if I ruin it? What if I make a mistake and it ends up looking awful and unwearable? It is a pricier fabric and these questions automatically poped up in my head when ever I saw it in my fabric stash. But when I was on the role with this pattern and I already knew how it fits I just went for it. I cut the fabric. I also had only 1 meter but I guess this fabric was wider than the scuba so I managed to add the bottom band. It is not visible in the photos but I had to piece it from more pieces than the pattern suggests (there are seams on each side and in the centre back). I also had to make it narrower. I cut bodice pieces as per pattern to make up for a narrower band (instead of shortening it as with my previous version where bottom band is wider).

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Treću verziju sam napravila u ovoj Atelier Brunette tkanini. Mislim da brzo nakon izlaska ove kolekcije tkanina nije prošao dan da nisam na Instagramu vidjela neku kreaciju napravljenu iz te tkanine. Odmah mi se sviđala, ali ju nisam htjela kupiti jer sam tada već bila u modu ne kupovanja novih tkanina. Ali sam popustila. Sada mi naravno nije žao jer obožavam ovu tkaninu (nosim ju dok ovo pišem!). Nakon što sam ju kupila sjedila je na polici preko godinu dana, a to isto pokušavam izbjeći ovih dana koliko je to god moguće. A tu je bio i strah. Što ako ju upropastim? Što ako napravim grešku i vesta ispadne grozno? Malo je skuplja tkanina i kada god sam ju vidjela na polici ta pitanja su mi se javljala jedno za drugim u glavi. Ali kako sam isprobala ovaj kroj i znala sam što trebam napraviti za dobar rezultat jednostavno sam krenula. Zarezala sam u tkaninu. Isto sam imala samo metar tkanine, ali očito je šira jer sam za razliku od scuba verzije tu uspjela izvući i pojas. Ne vidi se na slikama, ali sastavila sam ga od više dijelova (imam šavove na bočnim stranama i po sredini na stražnjoj strani) i nešto je uži od originala. Prednji i stražnji dio tijela sam na ovoj verziji izrezala bez skraćivanja da nadoknadim razliku zbog užeg pojasa.

I can really recommend this pattern and the world of fabric is yours to find the ones that will speak to you! I am happy that with this I got three (!) fabrics out of my stash and into my wardrobe!

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Stvarno mogu preporučiti ovaj kroj, a svijet je tvoj da si nađeš onu pravu tkaninu koja priča baš tebi! Sretna sam što sam ovime prebacila čak tri (!) tkanine s police u ormar!

Thank you for reading!

Hvala na čitanju!

Ana

Gaia Quilted Coat by Named Clothing

I made a new coat and I am so pumped about it! The pattern I used is the Gaia Quilted coat by Named Patterns. I am surprised that I lean toward coat patterns that are not fitted, because when I was buying RTW ones before, I always looked at them being more cinched in the waist. Funny how that changes.

 

This pattern has some details I never saw on a coat before and it just drew me in. Shoulder detail is here no. 1 for me and I just love that. Lapel is the very second and it maybe the thing that draws the eye in more. I was in!

The pattern is oriented towards advanced sewers. It would be useful if you already made a coat before you take this project on, but maybe with time and patience even an advanced beginner could make it. Maybe? I made my first coat last winter so had already the experience of bagging out the lining and working with wool. That was the Chloe coat by Sew Over It from the Intro to Sewing Coats course and I blogged about it here. I am a visual person so working on my first coat with video support was really helpful.

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Napravila sam novi kaput i oduševljena sam! Koristila sam Gaia Quilted kroj od Named Patterns. Iznenađena sam kako posežem za krojevima kaputa koji nisu uski u struku. Još dok sam kupovala kapute uvijek sam gledala da imaju neku formu u tom dijelu. Zanimljivo kako se to mijenja.

Ovaj kroj ima neke odlične detalje koje ranije nisam vidjela na kaputima i to me privuklo. Najbolji detalj mi je svakako detalj na ramenima, a drugi je rever koji možda i više privlači pogled.  I to je ono s čime me ovaj kroj kupio (iako sam naravno ja kupila njega). 

Kroj je namijenjen naprednijim krojačicama. Po mojem mišljenju je korisno da već imate iskustvo šivanja kaputa prije ovog projekta, ali možda uz dovoljno vremena i strpljenja bi ga čak i naprednija manje iskusna krojačica mogla svladati. Možda? Svoj prvi kaput sam napravila prošle zime tako da imam iskustvo izvlačenja postave i šivanja s vunom. Za njega sam koristila kroj Chloe od Sew Over It iz njihovog online tečaja Intro to Sewing Coats i o njemu sam pisala ranije ovdje. Vizualno bolje učim, pa lakše korake shvaćam iz videa nego iz pisanih uputa i to mi je tada puno pomoglo.

Shoulder detail / detalj na ramenu

I did encounter few glitches along the way. Maybe that was just me, maybe it was the fabric I choose. I made my coat from boiled wool I got at a local store in Zagreb. This fabric is thicker that the fabric Named girls used in their sample garment. It looks great in the end, but it did mean more pressing and more volume on the seams where more fabric layers were on top of each other. But hey, that is coat making…..

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Imala sam na neke probleme u koracima kod konstrukcije. Možda sam to samo ja, možda je to samo odabir tkanine. Kaput sam izradila iz kuhane vune koju sam nabavila u lokalnom dućanu Svijet tkanine u Zagrebu. Ova tkanina je deblja od tkanine koju su Named cure koristile za svoj pokazni primjerak. Na kraju kaput izgleda super, samo sam morala puno više koristiti peglu i imala sam puno deblji sloj materijala koji je morao proći kroz mašinu. Al čuj, to je izrada kaputa…..

And let’s talk about the colour! I am feeling a bigger need for colourful clothes than ever before. I used to dress in black, gray and brown all my teenage years and it probably remains my base palette now. I did make more colourful garments but overall I am craving it more and more. That is why I am happy to have a coloured coat now! The first one was camel and although it is not black it still felt „too safe“. Not that I am screaming colour with a rust coat but I am closer to that. It really cheers me up to put it on and whenever I look down or in the mirror I smile. So I guess I did it right.

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Sad malo o boji! Imam veću potrebu za šarenom odjećom nego ikad prije. U tinejdžerskim godinama sam se uglavnom oblačila u sivu, crnu i smeđu i to se zadržalo kao neka baza u mojoj garderobi. Izradila sam već neke šarenije komade, ali sada ih želim još više. Upravo zato sam sretna što sad imam kaput u boji! Prvi kaput koji sam izradila bio je bež i iako bež nije crna svejedno je nekako „presigurna“. Nije da sad vrištim u tamno narančastom kaputu, ali svakako sam bliže tome. Svaki put se nasmiješim kada pogledam dolje ili se vidim u ogledalu dok nosim kaput tako da sam svakako napravila nešto dobro.

COAT CONSTRUCTION

I made a muslin to check the fit before cutting into my precious wool. I made my coat in the smallest size offered in the pattern. After I saw this size would work I made up the lining and then started assembling the coat shell. It takes longer because of all the pressing and I used a wood “tool” for better results. Usually a tailor’s wood clapper is used for this, but I do not have one and just used a leftover piece from the floor moulding. But any flat piece of wood in the right size works. I used a gauze between the iron and wool not to leave any marks on the fabric and pressed (not ironed) the wool. Ironing it might stretch the fabric. Then I removed the iron and the gauze and pressed the seam surface with wood until it completely cooled down. This way wood takes the heat from the fabric and wool keeps the shape. I had to repeat it few times with bulkier seams at the pockets.
I avoid pressing from the right side of the fabric to avoid any possible marks on the fabric, especially if the fabric has a nap.

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IZRADA KAPUTA

Izradila sam probnu test verziju da provjerim veličinu prije nego zarežem u svoju dragocjenu vunu. Kaput sam izradila u najmanjoj veličini ponuđenoj u kroju. Kada sam utvrdila da je veličina dobra sašila sam postavu i počela sastavljati vanjski dio (ljusku?) kaputa. Ovaj dio traje duže zbog konstantnog peglanja šavova i za to sam koristila drvo za bolji rezultat. Za to se u pravilu koristi konkretan krojački drveni predmet (težak i ima dršku s donjom ravnom površinom za pritiskanje podloge; eng tailor’s wood clapper) ali kako ga nemam koristila sam preostali komad drva od lajsni. Bilo koji komad drva ravne površine i odgovarajuće veličine može poslužiti za ovu svrhu. Nisam peglala direktno vunu nego sam između uvijek stavljala gazu (to je bitno da pegla ne ostavi tragove na tkanini). Pritiskala sam toplom peglom preko gaze na mjestu gdje su šavovi. Kod peglanja je bitno da se pegla ne pomiče,  već podiže i spušta da ne bi rastegnula tkaninu. Kad maknem peglu i gazu na to mjesto stavim komad drva i pritićem dok se tkanina ne ohladi. Na ovaj način drvo preuzme toplinu iz tkanine i vuna tako zadrži oblik. To sam trebala ponoviti više puta na mjestima gdje su šavovi bili deblji, kao kod džepova. Izbjegavam peglati vunu s prednje strane materijala da izbjegnem ostavljanje tragova od peglanja, pogotovo ako tkanina ima dubinu (ako je 3D) kao što ju ima kuhana vuna.

 

This is how I feel every time I wear this coat / ovako se osjećam svaki put kad nosim kaput

I made the mistake of making entire pockets out of wool. I could have used lining fabric for the inside of the pockets. I went with wool because I wanted it to be warmer. Now when the whole thing is finished and pressed and pressed (and pressed) it looks good and is warm but I had to work on it way longer than needed if I had one less layer of wool there. Just something to keep in mind for next time.

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Napravila sam tu grešku da sam cijeli džep izradila iz vune. Moja greška je što nisam koristila postavu za unutrašnjost džepa. Za to sam isto koristila vunu jer sam htjela da džep bude topliji. Sad kad je sve gotovo i ispeglano, ispeglano (i još jednom ispeglano) izgleda dobro i toplo je, ali sam morala potrošiti više vremena za te korake nego što bi trebala da sam koristila postavu i radila s tanjim slojem. Nije velika greška, ali nešto o čemu ću bolje drugi put razmisliti.

A slap in the face was when I constructed the shell and tried it on. This is the first moment you get to see how it will look on you. I was a bit disappointed because I looked lost in it. I looked like a 12 year old girl in mom’s big coat. It was just too big and this is the smallest size in the pattern. It really made me feel all different kinds of feelings and I realised that in my experience there are pattern companies that stop with a bottom pattern size that is apparently above my size. So I let it sit for that day and picked it up again the day after. Then I took the sides in from the middle of the sleeve all the way to the pockets. I took it in for about 2 centimetres which sums up to a total of about 8 cm in the overall width of the coat! This helped a lot with the fit on the back as there was too much fabric there that just looked funny. I also had to take in the same amount on the lining so they would fit together.

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Kada sam sašila ljusku kaputa probala sam ga i osjećaj je bio kao pljuska po licu. To je prvi trenutak u kojem se može probati kaput i dobiti dojam kako će izgledati. Bila sam razočarana jer sam izgledala izgubljeno u njemu. Izgledala samo kao dvanaestogodišnja djevojčica u maminom prevelikom kaputu. Jednostavno je bio prevelik, a to je najmanja veličina koja se nudi u kroju. To je pokrenulo cijelu paletu osjećaja, ali i realizaciju da ima više firmi koje svoje krojeve izrađuju s najmanjom veličinom koja je meni prevelika. Odlučila sam za taj dan sve ostaviti po strani i vratila mu se opet idući dan. Onda sam suzila kaput na stranama od sredine rukava sve do džepova. Suzila sam ga za otprilike 2 centimetra, što je ukupno 8 centimetara na cijeloj širini kaputa! To je puno pomoglo za izgled leđa jer je prethodno tu bilo previše materijala što je izgledalo smiješno. Istu količinu sam trebala suziti i na postavi da bi odgovarala kaputu. 

 

When facings were attached it started looking like a proper coat and I fell back in love with it. Then the problem was figuring out how to get the lapels to sit flat without doing topstitching. I posted a question about it in my Instagram stories and got some great advice. Thank you to everyone who wrote, I really appreciate it and I did learn something new! Read bellow.

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Kad sam sašila revere počeo je ličiti na kaput i opet sam se zaljubila. Onda se javio problem kako dobiti da rever sjedne lijepo bez šivanja s vanjske strane. Postavila sam pitanje vezano za to na Instagram storyu i dobila sam odlične savjete. Hvala svima koji su odgovorili, puno ste mi pomogli i naučila sam nešto novo! Čitaj u nastavku.

 

Advice I got:

  1. Topstitch
  2. Understitch bottom side of the fabric (bottom side being the side you can not see. You change understitching from the facing on the bottom to the shell on the lapels).
  3. Hand stitch from the inside – invisible from outside and would anchor the facing down
  4. Use fuse tape
  5. Press and lay something heavy on it until it cools down

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Savjeti koje sa dobila:

  1. Prošiti površinski vidljivi šav duž revera
  2. Prošiti nevidljivi šav na licu revera – nevidljivo s gornje strane
  3. Ručno prošiti rever s unutarnje strane – nevidljivo s gornje i donje strane
  4. Koristiti ljepljivu traku
  5. Ispeglati i na vrh postaviti nešto teško dok se ne ohladi

I tried to avoid no. 1, because I just did not want to do it on this particular coat.

I tried no. 2 on the lower part of the front understitching the facing, but that did not make much change at all. I ironed it and it did sit flat but when moving the facing kept poking out and the seam turned to the outside.

I also tried to avoid no. 3 because I am lazy and as I did not have any fuse tape at hand no. 4 was also not an option.

I tried no. 5 several times, and it worked well only when I used a wet gauze. I was afraid it would shrink my wool as I did not pretreat it (preshrink it), but it did not do any of that. It flattened the wool so beautifully. I tested it on a scarp first of course to make sure I don’t cry when it is too late. That was my mom’s advice, so thank you mom!

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Pokušala sam izbjeći br. 1, jer nisam htjela taj detalj na ovom kaputu.

Br. 2 sam probala na donjem dijelu prednjice kaputa, ali nije bilo nikakve razlike. Ispeglala sam taj dio i bolje je izgledalo, ali kada bi se kretala šav bi se počeo izvrtati.

Također sam probala izbjeći br. 3 jer sam lijena, a pošto nisam imala ljepljivu traku doma br. 4 nije bio opcija.  

Br. 5 sam probala nekoliko puta i najveći pomak je bio kada sam smočila gazu. Bojala sam se da će para skupiti vunu. Nisam ju prije šivanja pripremila u tom smislu, parila ju peglom da se stisne, pa nisam htjela da se to desi u trenutku kad su svi krojni komadi već izrezani po mjeri. Ali to se nije desilo i vuna se ispeglala tako lijepo. To sam prvo naravno testirala na viška vune da nebi u suprotnom plakala kad je prekasno. To je bio mamin savjet, pa hvala mama!

From all the great advice received I went with no. 3 in the end and hand-stitched both front seams from the inside with a ladder stitch. I saw Cotton & Curls on Instagram repairing clothes that way recently and I thought that would be a good option. And it was, it worked like a charm! I think that might be my go-to method from now on. What I will do better next time is not pull so strong on the thread because you can see a bit of pulling if you look closely. But not something that bothers me too much.

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Od svih dobivenih savjeta odlučila sam se za br. 3 i ručno sam prošila unutrašnjost prednjeg šava s tzv. ladder stitch (u slobodnom prijevodu ljestvičasti šav). Vidjela sam da je nedavno Cotton & Curls na Instagramu objavila video kako s tim šavom popravlja rupe na odjeći i činilo mi se da bi to super funkcioniralo ovdje. I je, odlučno je odradilo točno ono što sam htjela! Mislim da bi to od sad nadalje mogla biti moja najdraža metoda završavanja kragni kod kaputa. Drugi put ću pripaziti da ne vučem tako jako konac jer se na mjestima vidi zatezanje. To nije nešto što me previše smeta, ali je bila dobra škola za ubuduće.

After that it was a breeze. I sewed the lining to the facing, finished sleeve and bottom seams and bagged out the lining.

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Nakon toga je bilo jednostavno. Spojila sam postavu i ljusku kaputa, završila šavove na rukavima i na dnu kaputa i izvukla postavu (metoda koja se koristi za strojno završavanje rubova umjesto ručnog završavanja koje duže traje – eng. bagging out the lining).

In the end I hand stitched the best label in and that is basically all I could have said about this coat because it truly was made with love and swear words!

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Na  kraju sam ručno našila etiketu i te riječi s etikete su upravo ono što mogu reći o ovom kaputu jer je stvarno napravljen s ljubavlju i psovkama!

I love my new coat and I have been wearing it non stop since I made it. And that is what it’s all about folks! I also caught the coat making bug and really want to make another coat this winter. Let’s see if that happens.

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Obožavam svoj novi kaput i nosila sam ga svaki dan otkad sam ga napravila. I to je poanta svega ovoga! A dodatno sam se i zarazila sa šivanjem kaputa i želim napraviti još jedan prije kraja zime. Ajmo vidjeti hoće li se to i dogoditi.

Can you see how much I love this coat / možete vidjeti koliko volim ovaj kaput?

Thank you for reading,

Hvala na čitanju,

Ana